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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, but none of those options are very attractive. And the key wasn't lost. The car was moved about 200 feet, by whom and how I don't know but it apparently immobilized the engine. The owner's manual and the shop manual tell you nothing. The system really sucks.
J.R.
 

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Some locksmiths are able to reset the ECU key codes.
 

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Thanks, but none of those options are very attractive. And the key wasn't lost. The car was moved about 200 feet, by whom and how I don't know but it apparently immobilized the engine. The owner's manual and the shop manual tell you nothing. The system really sucks.
J.R.
How do you know it's the immobilizer? Does the red led on the dash keep flashing when you insert the key? Does your car have the optional dealer installed anti-theft/alarm system? This is different from the immobilizer and you have to proceed differently with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the manual, but that's not my system.
It's the immobilizer because the car won't start after it had been entered and moved. The red light doesn't illuminate at all, even when removing the key as it's supposed to.
 

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Buddy the way the immobilizer works on this car is it allows the starter to crank but it does not provide any ignition. Is this what you are seeing? The ECU and the immobilizer could not care less if the car has been entered and moved. That is the job of the anti-theft system. Did you check uner the engine lid, maybe whoever moved your car stole the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It cranks but there's no ignition or fuel. Some other kind of key must have been used to enter and move my car and that must have immobilized it.
 

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Since you say the immobilized light is never lit and someone else 'moved' the car I would check the fuses. Also, be sure all the wiring connections are plugged in completely.
 

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It cranks but there's no ignition or fuel. Some other kind of key must have been used to enter and move my car and that must have immobilized it.
Ok we are getting somewhere with these details thank you for providing them. However the immobilizer system on this car is different from other immobilizer systems you might be familiar with, for example the Ford PATS or Chevy VATS. Those sytems, once triggered, must be re-set so the car cn start. The Spyder immobilizer system is neither triggered nor reset. You cannot start the car with a non-registered key. As soon as you insert a registered key, the car will start. There is a very very rare possibility that the ECU can "forget" a key registration and needs to be re-programmed for your keys. This is very very rare. Iin those cases you would have to look back to one of the options that I gave you previously - or a qulified locksmith who has access to the Toyota TIS for registering keys.

Like RANDE said, look for blown fuses or loose electrical connections. Specifically look at the fuses labeled ECU-B1, IG2, EFI1, EFI2 in the engine fusebox. Test with ignition on that the injectors get constant 12v power on one of the two wires, and the coils get constant 12v power on one of the four wires. Does the check engine light on the cluster light up when you turn the key to the "RUN" position? If it is not lighting up this means the ECU is off-line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok we are getting somewhere with these details thank you for providing them. However the immobilizer system on this car is different from other immobilizer systems you might be familiar with, for example the Ford PATS or Chevy VATS. Those sytems, once triggered, must be re-set so the car cn start. The Spyder immobilizer system is neither triggered nor reset. You cannot start the car with a non-registered key. As soon as you insert a registered key, the car will start. There is a very very rare possibility that the ECU can "forget" a key registration and needs to be re-programmed for your keys. This is very very rare. Iin those cases you would have to look back to one of the options that I gave you previously - or a qulified locksmith who has access to the Toyota TIS for registering keys.

Like RANDE said, look for blown fuses or loose electrical connections. Specifically look at the fuses labeled ECU-B1, IG2, EFI1, EFI2 in the engine fusebox. Test with ignition on that the injectors get constant 12v power on one of the two wires, and the coils get constant 12v power on one of the four wires. Does the check engine light on the cluster light up when you turn the key to the "RUN" position? If it is not lighting up this means the ECU is off-line.
As you say, now we're getting somewhere. I had assumed that an immobilized engine stayed immobilized. A Toyota service manager said nothing to disabuse me of that idea and, as you know, the owner's and shop manual tell you nothing.
 

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Cranks but no ignition or fuel?
And you're definitely using the right key?

Immobiliser aside, my (not particularly experienced) mind thinks there might be crank angle sensor issues. Wouldn't that stop the ECU from firing injectors or spark?

I'm assuming you tested for fuel pressure at the rail by unplugging it, putting it into a rag-filled bucket/cup, and cranking for a second.
And you've tested for injectors by cranking normally for a few seconds and the taking out a spark plug and smelling for gas in the cylinder.
And tested for spark by leaving the spark plug connected to its coil, and earthed to the engine block, then looked for spark as you crank the engine.

As a not-particularly-experienced mechanic, I would defer to anyone who contradicts my advice in this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
MyCal, you are exactly right, it was a broken wire to the crankshaft position sensor. Have you had the same problem? B.T.W. Sniffing the exhaust pipe after cranking is a lot easier than checking fuel pressure.
J.R.
 
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