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Now that I'm on my forth stripped head stud, I've gotten pretty good at fixing them.

You can use helicoil, and I did on one of them, but I found it to be a real pain and expensive.

I had one pull out about 5 years ago, and I did a in place repair with a 7/16 stud. It has held fine and is still in place.

During this last rebuild, I've had three more pull out during torque down. Even at 30 ft/lbs. (BGB says 38 ft/lbs).

I picked up a helicoil kit ($50) and spend about an hour getting it tapped and inserting the helicoil.

Here's the easy way, and you can do this with the exhaust manifold on.

Get a 2-1/2" 7/16 stud with 14 pitch threads on one end and 20 pitch threads on the other and a #5 or #8 hardness 7/16 20 pitch nut.

The pulled out stud hole is already about 3/8" so you don't need to drill it out.

Get a 7/16-14 tap and tap the hole. 7/16 clears the exhaust manifold hole so you don't need any drilling there.

Insert the stud and torque it down. The 20 pitch thread is close to the metric 1.25 mm original thread so you can torque it down the same as the others.
 

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Hey csandys,
I know this is a really old post but I am having the same issues with stripping on the exhaust manifold stud holes and was wondering where you got those studs. I've gone to a couple auto stores and they don't carry anything like that. Should I go to Sears or some place online? Anyway, thanks so much for providing this info for other MR2 enthusiasts!
 

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Good workaround! I've bookmarked this for reference when I eventually pull the manifold. I recommend a sticky, or linked from a sticky!
 

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csandys said:
Now that I'm on my forth stripped head stud, I've gotten pretty good at fixing them.

You can use helicoil, and I did on one of them, but I found it to be a real pain and expensive.

I had one pull out about 5 years ago, and I did a in place repair with a 7/16 stud. It has held fine and is still in place.

During this last rebuild, I've had three more pull out during torque down. Even at 30 ft/lbs. (BGB says 38 ft/lbs).

I picked up a helicoil kit ($50) and spend about an hour getting it tapped and inserting the helicoil.

Here's the easy way, and you can do this with the exhaust manifold on.

Get a 2-1/2" 7/16 stud with 14 pitch threads on one end and 20 pitch threads on the other and a #5 or #8 hardness 7/16 20 pitch nut.

The pulled out stud hole is already about 3/8" so you don't need to drill it out.

Get a 7/16-14 tap and tap the hole. 7/16 clears the exhaust manifold hole so you don't need any drilling there.

Insert the stud and torque it down. The 20 pitch thread is close to the metric 1.25 mm original thread so you can torque it down the same as the others.
So the stud you are using is longer then the OEM? Then you are using double nut to torque it down in place?
My Dad made a stud for me, he over sized it just a tad so it would be tight, my issue is I can finger screw the stud, but I don't think it in all the way. Btw, the hole was helicoiled two years ago, the stud that wad in some how came out, I will be using lock tread, do you recommend using something better?

Wish I lived close to you, I would pay you to fix it. Every machanice in town want to charge around 600.

Thanks
 

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^Use Time-serts like what I linked above. They are night and day better than helicoils and you can use the standard exhaust stud.
 

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MR2 Josh said:
^Use Time-serts like what I linked above. They are night and day better than helicoils and you can use the standard exhaust stud.
Josh, after reading my post i sound crappy, lol

My question is, how do you tighten the stud in?

I tried putting the stud in using my fingers, with the manifold in place, but I feel like I could only get so much in. Is there a special way of placing it in with the manifold?
 

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91Turbo said:
My question is, how do you tighten the stud in?
Ken hooked me up with 90116-10150 for studs. It has a Torx bit on the end, use an inverted torx socket to screw it in. It also has thread locker already applied to the threads that go into the head. AND it's only $0.20 more than OEM
It's a win-win.
 

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Sang said:
Ken hooked me up with 90116-10150 for studs. It has a Torx bit on the end, use an inverted torx socket to screw it in. It also has thread locker already applied to the threads that go into the head. AND it's only $0.20 more than OEM
It's a win-win.
okay so I did see that you posted another part number on a different thread.

for this part number you are posting, is this OEM part number? and what is a Torx bit and Torx socket? i should Google it, LOL

let me know on the part numbers


Okay this is a Torx socket



is the stud this kind?

 

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The stud is used on a camry (?) header.

No, the stud has the male end attached to the end, so you'd need an inverted torx socket which is the female end.
 

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Sang said:
The stud is used on a camry (?) header.

No, the stud has the male end attached to the end, so you'd need an inverted torx socket which is the female end.
okay I got it, but what about the part numbers you posted, you forgot to mention where you got them.

thanks

Update:



17159 is
90116-10063 Stud
92122-60822 Bolt

2000 Camery, is this right? you part number 90116-10150 does not come up

http://www.toyodiy.com
 

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91Turbo said:
what about the part numbers you posted, you forgot to mention where you got them
I didn't forget. I told you exactly where I got them. Look it up in an actual toyota parts catalog or call your dealership, it will show up in their computer.

 

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Hey Sang,
Thanks for all the helpful advice. So just clarify for myself, you used the timesert to re-establish threads and then used the part #9011610150 for the studs? Or did you use the OP's procedure? I need to get this done like soon.
 

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I used timeserts. I sold the kit I used on here a week or two ago.

The studs are slightly longer than stock due to the torx head on the ends, but still works fine.
 

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Sang said:
I used timeserts. I sold the kit I used on here a week or two ago.

The studs are slightly longer than stock due to the torx head on the ends, but still works fine.
Sang, u just answered one of my questions, the lenght of the stud.

I will be ordering a few tomorrow.

My dad had made me some studs with a 11M on head part and 10M on the nut part, I had asked hime if he could make the stud longer. He is a buys guy so I guess I will go this route.

Thanks
 
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