[benckj]

Sounds a bit strange as if clutch was ‘defective’ it would not repair itself. The clutch really doesn’t break into mating surfaces like brake pads. Maybe something came loose and is now free of rotating parts?
Best to pop the inspection cover off and see if anything falls out.

 

[Pawpabare]

Sounds a bit strange as if clutch was ‘defective’ it would not repair itself. The clutch really doesn’t break into mating surfaces like brake pads. Maybe something came loose and is now free of rotating parts?
Best to pop the inspection cover off and see if anything falls out.

The clutch didn't fix itself, the shop that did the work had to replace the clutch again. After the clutch was replaced, the sound went away. He said that the first clutch he put in had some kind of an issue and so he replaced it a second time and the second clutch seemed to get rid of the sounds.

 

[benckj]

Got ya. Glad you got it sorted and shop did the right thing.

 

[Pawpabare]

So just an update, the noise when releasing the clutch is gone. The car seems to be driving well.

BUT..the shift from 1st to 2nd is still very notch and has to be done slowly. I know it was mentioned that my 2nd gear synchro could be toast but I wanted to give some more info and see if synchro is still the likely culprit.

The transmission currently only has 58k miles on it. Never has been opened. The car has also been sitting for the last 12 years until I just got the 2GR swap done last month. Last time I drove the car before the swap (12 years ago) it didn't have that notchy shift as far as I remember. Based on the low mileage and the fact that it wasn't in use for over a decade, is worn synchro still the most likely scenario?

I ordered a new square bushing (the roller ball version from TwosRUs) , the shift lever seat bushing (the old one looks to be worn and parts towards the top lip have chipped off), a OEM 93+ Shift lever (people on the forum seem to swear by them), and aluminum shifter base bushings. The shop put in Frankenstein spherical cable end bushings during the swap so that is already done. Has anyone had any improvement in the 1 to 2 shift smoothness with any of these modifications? Would love to hear if this extremely notchy shift between 1st and 2nd is normal and if there are any other changes that made differences for others.

Also worth noting, after I install all these bits, I'm thinking about draining the recently filled Redline MTL and try Lightweight Shock Proof to see if this helps with the shifts (a lot of forum members stated they had huge improvements with this). As far as shifter cables I'm thinking of ordering some and replacing those as well. Thoughts on that?

 

[benckj]

You are part way there with the shift mods.

To add to the list you already have;
1/ Install drop plate on gear shift lever in cab. This helps align cable shafts especially if using short shifter.
2/ Short shifter or gen 3 type work better IMO.
3/ Swap to LWSP oil.
4/ Install poly engine mounts to stop engine from moving during hard shifts.
5/ Make sure clutch is optimized with braided slave connection hose. Good idea to install new slave cylinder and swap to DOT 5.1 fluid. especially if you notice deterioration of engagement when hot.
6/ Alignment of shift cables is paramount. make sure you have adjusted correctly and brackets are not bent. Often when install new spherical bushes the axle tabs get deformed.

Hopefully your trans doesn't have mechanical damage especially on syncros or shift fork. These are the most common faults and parts are getting hard to obtain. A couple mates who race thier Gen 3's replace the shift forks every year. Mine is still original due to following the suggestions above.

 

[Pawpabare]

You are part way there with the shift mods.

To add to the list you already have;
1/ Install drop plate on gear shift lever in cab. This helps align cable shafts especially if using short shifter.
2/ Short shifter or gen 3 type work better IMO.
3/ Swap to LWSP oil.
4/ Install poly engine mounts to stop engine from moving during hard shifts.
5/ Make sure clutch is optimized with braided slave connection hose. Good idea to install new slave cylinder and swap to DOT 5.1 fluid. especially if you notice deterioration of engagement when hot.
6/ Alignment of shift cables is paramount. make sure you have adjusted correctly and brackets are not bent. Often when install new spherical bushes the axle tabs get deformed.

Hopefully your trans doesn't have mechanical damage especially on syncros or shift fork. These are the most common faults and parts are getting hard to obtain. A couple mates who race thier Gen 3's replace the shift forks every year. Mine is still original due to following the suggestions above.

Thanks for this! So can you clarify on the drop plate? I read that this is not recommended because it cause the shift cables to not be lined up correctly due to some angulation. Is that not true?

Do you recommend a short shifter other than just switching to the 93+ shift lever?

I was considering the swap to LWSP but my mechanic stated that I shouldn't run it because its bad for the pump/filter. I've read the big post on this forum and it seems like people are split on this particular trans fluid. I've heard a lot of good things though.

Is replacing the slave cylinder an easy job? Or does it require the trans to come out? I'm trying to figure out what I can try and tackle with a friend vs what I need to budget for.

 

[benckj]

The drop plate lowers the shift assembly by approx 12mm to correct alignment of cables. A forum member use to sell them for approx $20.

The 93 OEM shifter is the best IMO. Having a decent weight in shift knob also helps.

Replacing slave cylinder is an easy job without having to remove any other parts. Good to do the braided hose and fluid replacement at same time. Bleeding system is the hard part.

While your Mechanic is technically correct on using LWSP many of us have found it is superior to any other product. It simply works better and lasts longer than anything else by a country mile. Many, including myself have raced using this fluid and trans have not had any issue. I’ve personally racked up 60k over the past 8 years on my 98GT with no problems.

 

[Pawpabare]

The drop plate lowers the shift assembly by approx 12mm to correct alignment of cables. A forum member use to sell them for approx $20.

The 93 OEM shifter is the best IMO. Having a decent weight in shift knob also helps.

Replacing slave cylinder is an easy job without having to remove any other parts. Good to do the braided hose and fluid replacement at same time. Bleeding system is the hard part.

While your Mechanic is technically correct on using LWSP many of us have found it is superior to any other product. It simply works better and lasts longer than anything else by a country mile. Many, including myself have raced using this fluid and trans have not had any issue. I’ve personally racked up 60k over the past 8 years on my 98GT with no problems.

I think I found the drop plate you're talking about on TwosRUs. I will plan to order this as well after I install the initial batch of parts that are en route.

Before the LWSP did you have a notchy/slow shift from 1st to 2nd? Currently running new Redline MTL. No grinds and all the shifts are smooth except for the 1 to 2.

Also, regarding engine mounts, do you mean just buying the poly inserts and putting them in the stock mounts? Or do you have another product you're talking about? How involved of a job is this?

Thanks for all of the insight!

 

[benckj]

Check you cable alignment under center console to see if a drop plate will help. If everything is stock it should lower by approx 12mm.

On my Gen 3 that imported from Japan with 64k kms on clock there was no issues with any gear selection. I only drove it approx 500km before I started to mod which included trans fluid change to MT90. After a couple months I was not impressed with the MT90 I switched to LWSP and have been running ever since.

On the motor mounts the poly inserts are ideal. I used ‘Kirks’ on front & back as these take most of the engine torque. The ones on side are fine as OEM. I didn’t change the motor mounts to gain better shifts but there was an unexpected improvement from 1-2. Fairly easy to install as long as your captive nuts on body are in decent shape. Use anti-sieze andbe careful not to cross thread.

Hope this helps.

 

[annamarks]

The syncro has a collar that slips onto a cone to match speed. If there is not enough bite, it will take longer.

 

[Pawpabare]

The syncro has a collar that slips onto a cone to match speed. If there is not enough bite, it will take longer.

Thank you for the suggestion. If that was the case, would you see the same symptoms on upshift and downshift? I ask because I'm only having the issue on upshift.

I do have a new noise that's started though. I'll post a video link. It's worth noting, the throwout bearing was replaced when the new clutch was placed.

https://youtube.com/shorts/TrgYGa0su0Q?feature=share

Any thoughts or suggestions welcome!

Cheers,
PB

 

[merryfrankster]

The syncro has a collar that slips onto a cone to match speed. If there is not enough bite, it will take longer.

Can you explain why you are repeating word for word what was said previously, more than a month ago.

The syncro has a collar that slips onto a cone to match speed. If there is not enough bite, it will take longer.

 

[Pawpabare]

Oh wow, I didn't realize they completely reused one of your previous posts. I found it a little strange that their very first post was a response to one of my older threads and not an introduction.

 

[merryfrankster]

Possible scammer. Reported to the admin.