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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
MR-2 MK2 Door Card Arm Rest Repair:

I’ve seen that the door card base material often gives in after many years of elbow contact….the simulated leather is tough stuff but eventually it also gives in and punctures…game over…
If you get the area reinforced before that happens you’ll be ok… I have done this three times now, and this last one was the longest fracture, about 5 inches long. Take the door card off and inspect your damage...In this case the naugahyde covering was ok but it was puckered near the door cup because the crack was so long the base material overlapped causing the covering to be slack.



The door cup hole needed to have a support block made to force the cracked door card base into a better alignment ….this stretched out the armrest area and got rid of the puckered look of the covering.
The support block was made by tracing the door cup hole and making a block of plywood with that shape but a little bigger…then the edge was tapered so it could be installed and adjusted like a wedge.
I had to make a relief cut in that support block to allow the “C” clamp to fit into it.




Inspect the door card base tear area while spread by the support block, you want the edges to bond together with no overlapping that will show on top later…remove all shards that will hang up.





I made a repair patch from 1/8” thick plywood cut with the grain direction aligned to allow it to curve easily lengthwise to match the armrest area. You might want to carve or sand a cross curvature to match the door card armrest under shape. This is especially important if the damaged area is large.



I got a 2 X 2 wood block and placed it on the top side of the armrest area that needs to be fixed, then pencil traced a line following the contour of the arm rest area. I sawed this contour line to make a gluing form block for the top surface….I traced that block contour to another 2 X 2 block and cut that to make the reverse or underside form block. To make sure they were a close match I put 60 grit sandpaper between them and rubbed them against each other...that got rid of any high spots.



I glued some thicker foam to the upper block and later used a piece of paper towel too as protection for the simulated leather. This is just a test fit shown here.



Test fit of clamping the underside form block. Mix the epoxy only when you are satisfied that it will bond together right. I chose a clamp that would fit into the door cup hole and reach close to center of the form blocks.




I used DEVCON FasMetal 10 hvac 19770 epoxy to install the repair patch, plenty of working time with this stuff and it is really strong and durable. Mix the Epoxy and coat both mating surfaces.





I arranged the “wedge” support block and the “C” clamp into the door cup hole, then set the patch in position on the damaged underside and placed the contour blocks between the clamp faces and snugged them down…










Between the foam and the top imitation leather surface I had a piece of paper towel, probably not needed, I also used a piece of waxed paper between the repair patch and the contoured clamping block. This is needed because that block might get bonded to the repair patch.
I kept the leftover epoxy around to check on the hardening over time….and remember to immediately look all over your door card to see if you may have epoxy smudges anywhere…wax should take it off if done in time…you might want to pretest that on a similar test material.
The repair may never look 100% but it is better than having a big tear in your door armrest….
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks! I have the interior parts from six other MR-2s in this car to change from the stock blue to the black interior....mostly from sellers on the MR2OC....the door cards here came from a friend at work.....
 
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