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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have had my car running on MS2 for a while now, more specifically the DIYPNP kit offered by www.diyautotune.com. This isnt going to be 100% step by step but it will be enough to get you going. I found that from a noobs standpoint there is alot of grey area in regards to the vehicle specific modifications in order to get MS running.

Previous to assembling my MS I had almost no experience with a solder iron, and I couldn't tell the difference between a resistor and a capacitor. Overall difficulty I would rate this as a 2/10 IMO, tho I had my moments.



Before you start anything here are a few helpful links that you will need throughout the assembly.

Here is a link to the main documentation page.
http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs.html

This will come in handy when wiring the connector board to the main board later on. (this is modified from the original chart listed at diyautotune, I found this in my search for a base map over at club4ag )

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

More specifically you will start on the Main assembly page.
http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs1_5/main_assembly.html

Scroll down a bit to the Assembly section and give it a quick run through. Its a bit confusing at first but if you grab some of the baggies you will notice that they are all marked R15, R6, C9 etc... Resistor, capacitor etc...


By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

From there you will look for the corresponding markings on the mainboard.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17



I followed the main assembly page starting with the Resistors. I decided to do everything 1 bag at a time. I got better the more I did it...

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

Eventually I had all of the resistors installed.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Next came the transistors and chips... Man did those things suck! The pins bend pretty easy on the chips and they needed spread out just slightly to fit. Pay close attention to the markings, these CAN be installed backwards. If you look there is a half circle notch on the chips, and on the PCB that you line up. Also the transistors are polarized, so make sure you match the stripe on the transistor to the silk-screening on the PCB.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17


The capacitors were a little bit tricky, SOME of them are polarized. Specifically the big black one next to all the yellow ones on the left hand side.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

Also C9 and C10 are partially obscured. The round one next to C8 is C9. Take note of the + sign, as well as the square hole. Square holes are positive. The capaciter is marked with a grey - sign on the negative side, from memory the longer lead is positive but verify the - symbol just to be sure.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17


The next thing I did was flip over the PCB and install these things. Make sure that you use some sort of heatsink compound on the silver squares. The DIYPNP kit comes with some but I opted to use some MX-1 I had laying around from my computer. These get screwed/bolted on, then soldered.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

Here is the map sensor, take note of the notch in the pin.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just to give you an idea of the proper alignment. The nylon bolts hold this on.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

See these 3 prong things? These sucked to solder, since I was still learning. I thought I had a handle on soldering, these helped me learn how to de-solder and how important having a 3rd arm is!

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

A bit more progress. See the coffee stains? A bit of acetone and a old toothbrush took that right off.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

See those 400pin connectors? My joints started looking alot cleaner by the time I was done with those...lol Also take note of the 3 stand offs.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

Fully assembled! (Almost!)

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The part that confused me the most was the AFM delete, but once I actually looked at the plug and read the how-to over at diyautotune things became much simpler.


By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17


By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

I used the 2 pins on the far end for my IAT sensor. I opted for the GM sensor. It doesnt matter which wire from the GM IAT goes into the AFM plug as long as you use pin 1 and pin 7 on the harness side. Then to allow MS to control your fuel pump you jumper the blue and the green wires. I used some 20ga solid wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Remember that grey chart I posted up at the very top? Under edge pin connectors you connect each of those to the corresponding pin on the connector board. For example Fuel Pump is A5, so you would connect a wire from Fuel Pump on the mainboard to A5 on the connector board. They are all by The X-Connect box.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17


Also if you notice in the pullup box in the same chart is shows a resistor for opto+ and IAC. If you look at the following picture int he bottom right corner you can see R1-R5 and opto+ and IAC. So put a 1000ohm (1k) resistor in R3 to the 12v pin. Then put a 100ohm resistor in R5 to the 5v pin. If you look where it says pullups you can see the 5v and 12v clearly marked.


By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

Here is my final install.

By jimmer411 at 2010-09-17

And a couple videos.

Idle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Wo3YiIEOn0

9000rpm!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cflMu4xkabg



I am using an LC-1 wideband instead of the stock sensor. For that I was able to pull 12v and ground from the edge of the board. I used pin 8 for power, pin 7 for ground and pin 15 on my DB15 connector for the wideband, tho you can wire it up how ever you please. Ill have to see if I took any pictures of that, but its pretty straight forward.




Thats all I have for now, if you have any questions feel free to ask. :thumbup
 

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That's not bad for a solder newbie's soldering work. I'm wondering how much some people would be willing to pay for someone to do the soldering and assembling of components for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mk1noob said:
any faster than what it was with the stock ecu? Thats the big question lol

Based on my but dyno yes :thumbup


Its just as drivable as it was on the stock ecu, I still need to work on it below 3000 rpms some but I have managed to make progress each day I take it for a spin.

I feel my base tune is pretty solid right now. I ping slightly at low rpm and high load, like 5th gear and WOT at 30mph lol. I also cant make heads or tells of what Im supposed to do in regards to acceleration enrichment and what my fuel and spark needs are between 1500-2500 when coasting in gear. The mega manual is 100% based on megatune and I use tunerstudio which is a bit different. Right now as soon as I let off the gas I go lean for a fraction of a second. Same thing happens when I first tap the gas, which might explain things down low since I ping for a second as soon as I hit the gas from a dead stop and thats when Im lean for a second. Unless Im running rich when I hit the gas and its a misfire which would show full lean. I dunno, still learning!

Gas mileage is iffy. First tank I got 20mpg since I was playing it safe and running richer. Right now Im on track for the mid to high 20s but I wont know for sure till I fill up.


My other issue is my redline doesnt work. It works if I set it to sparkcut and retard but I dont like eating my steering wheel. I can make both fuel and fuel+spark limiters kick in at lower rpm when testing, but I still have no problem revving past 9000. Power feels solid till about 8300.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nah soldering was cake. So far in pretty happy with the lc-1, calibration was a pain at first till I figures out that the serial cable goes into the out plug to calibrate it.
 

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Great job, good thread too.

It definately seems quicker then the old setup (watching the videos). seems to come alive at 5k+rpm
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys. It definitely moves past 5000. I still need to work on my fuel at wot and in some of the transition points since Im pretty rich from 2500-4500, like 11-12:1 rich lol.

I plan on getting it on the dyno again but I have some things to take care of first. I think an adjustable FPR and some smallport injectors might do the trick.
 

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why and AFPR and smallport injectors? isnt that what MS is for? the stock injectors should be enough for what you have, you said yourself that you were in the 11's at WOT
 

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Discussion Starter #16
mk1noob said:
why and AFPR and smallport injectors? isnt that what MS is for? the stock injectors should be enough for what you have, you said yourself that you were in the 11's at WOT
Im not too confident in the stock FPR since it relies on manifold vacuum. Since I'm planning bigger cams and ITBs in the future I would like to get them setup before hand. I also like the idea of being able to monitor fuel pressure for diagnostic reasons, so if I'm tapping the fuel rail for a pressure gauge why not go all the way?


One thing I would like to add is the ability to control the engine bay fan. It's possible I just need to look into how to do it.
 

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about your low RPM ping and hesitation, and high idle; add fuel first down low
after doing that back off timing if you are still getting a high idle
 

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Nice write up. I am finally gathering up enough balls to go standalone. I've got a ton of research to do. This thread helped clear up some cunfusion quite a bit for me.
Thanks.

If you unplug the enginebay temp. sensor the fan stays on all of the time when the key is at the on position. That's what i do.
 
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