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shanesublett said:
Everyone has great ideas and questions, but no one is giving it a whack. This thread has been up forever, yet I still haven't seen any before and after pics?! Anyone?!
I actually tried this. I took a plastic trash can, filled it with water, but in washing soda and then took two rotors (one rusty, one not rusty) hooked up a CV/CC power supply. I figured it was a rotor and could take a lot of current so I put it up to about 2 amps (I remember reading somewhere that the amount of current should be based on the surface area of the objects. You really want them partially out of water so you can attach the electrodes to some place dry.

Anyway... I wasn't impressed with the results. The non-rusty one turned very rusty, but the rusty one wasn't cleaned up that much. There was a rust sludge concoction left on it. You'd still have to do quite a bit of clean up job. It was still very pitted, and if you wanted good results, you'd still need to sand it smooth. And as someone else pointed out, painting it with zinc primer immediately is probably a very good idea.
 

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You gotta go all out if you do it. I had like a $50 battery charger, dumped a lot of baking soda in ... used new coat hangers each time. It cleaned my caliper pretty well .. wherever you have rust it will melt off and you'll be left with a black bumpy part. The black bumpy texture won't rust anymore, it doesn't exactly look appealing though. I'd recommend painting it.

So basically I was left with a black caliper that had a smooth texture instead of the rust. It looks kind of like a smooth black rock you'de find in the river when its completely cleaned.
 

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I am not sure that this question was definitely answered: At what voltage should i use my battery charger.... I can set it to trickle at 2 volts, or go to 12 volts, or set to "activate".... methinks "activate" will activate my arse.
 

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G;day guys, im looking at stripping a set of calipers, that have some small sections of rust on them
How safe is this on honed or chromed surfaces,
would it be safe to electrolise the sliders (that have the outsides chromed?

I have already done some basic bits like caliper brackets and hub and uprights, but will it leave nice clean honed surfaces alone? or chromed areas (on sliders)?
 

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This is kinda sad that nobody has posted any pics. Well I'm trying it right now. I'm doing the spare tire hold down and a exhaust manifold. I started using Cascade but it doesn't want to mix with the water so i dumped some baking soda in. It's mixing well and now I have bubbles :). I'll post pics on my whole process. Any feedback would be appreciated.
 

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Brinign up the chromium by-product issue as hazardous waste:

I could understand the concern of using SS if it were for a lengthly period of time, such as for the HHO generators being used as fuel suppliments in cars. For something of this nature, where it's only being used for minutes at a time, every once in a while, I can't see it being a problem.

Does anyone have more information on this? This isn't fact, just thought.
 

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Since no one has posted pics, I did this today for fun. This isn't my first rodeo, tho. Myself and a friend did this on his exhaust manifold from a '68 TransAm a few years ago. Anyway, here's what I got...

Nasty rotor


The setup:
Negative is on top of the rotor, partially exposed to the air. Positive is pinning the coat hanger to the bucket. Coat hanger is sanded to remove the coating and expose the bare metal. Mixture is about 1/4 cup Arm & Hammer baking soda to 2.5g of water. If you look closely, you can see the chunks of rust falling off and on the bottom of the bucket. This accumulation was after about 30 seconds.


The result after about 15 minutes and a quick swipe of the rag.


To get like-new/shiny results, you'd have to use a piece of mild abrasive steel wool after this. I'm just using that method with some brake clean from the get-go on the rest, since rotors are cake to clean. On something like an exhaust manifold (rougher) or a *really* rusty part, this is the way to go, but takes a bit longer.

Hope that helps.
-Mike
 

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FYI,
The link is dead!
 

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Wow! This thread never dies. I know nothing about electrodes and stuff but does it matters how much of the coat hanger is submerged? Is the more the better?
 

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For people who still needs to see pics in how this is done, forget the pics. Go to you tube; type "electro rust removal". All the infos you need.

Did you know; soda, citric acid, and diluted hydrochloric acid will remove the black surface after the electrolytic process and bring the surface to it's original state.
 

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Updating the thread to note that today I found sodium carbonate at a pool supply company.

The guys looked at me like I was from another planet when I told them what I was going to do. They might look like that all the time, though; the chlorine smell were intense in there.
 

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RedTuna said:
Updating the thread to note that today I found sodium carbonate at a pool supply company.

The guys looked at me like I was from another planet when I told them what I was going to do. They might look like that all the time, though; the chlorine smell were intense in there.
post some pictures, RT. how much sc to how much water?
 

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This seems to work very well, I would like to try it out as I have a few very rusted parts on my 87, but the link is dead, can anyone post up a new one?

Thanks in advance.
 
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