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So.. the coat hanger is submerged in the solution but NOT touching the thing that is supposed to be cleaned? And part is outside the solution connected to the pos. cable, and the neg. cable is attached to the part being cleaned?
 

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Hrm..

Using PVC piping, I could fab up some wheel arch-rust cleaners.

Awesome, I'll headout to the hardware store this week :).
 

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hmmm this is strangly intriguing.... i can see myself getting eletrocuted tho...

does anyone where a super thick rubber glove when doing this?

i mean i'm not sure how much electricity that is but i can't imagine its good if u touch the water with your hands with it on...

when the charger is off the water won't remain charged yet will it?

sorry, a little slow... i don't know much...

~mikeym
 

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The water doesn't remain charged.
Use the same caution you would when charging a car battery.
It really works. I use baking soda and a hanger. It is amazing! You can turn up the juice and really make a mess, or run it at a low setting for a while and it will get it clean without much fuss.
 

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i had a tub in my kitchen for a few days while my parents were away. it was sitting there during a house party and people kept pouring beer in it, i dont know if that had any effect but it cleaned the hell out of my caliper brackets.
 

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i had a tub in my kitchen for a few days while my parents were away. it was sitting there during a house party and people kept pouring beer in it, i dont know if that had any effect but it cleaned the hell out of my caliper brackets.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
 

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This is a cool idea, if it works. The directions were a bit vague though. I'm curious if people have experimented with:

1) Different voltages... I would think more voltage would be better, but is too much voltage dangerous for the parts?

2) Different electrolytes (that should speak for itself)... Are some more dangerous for the metals, are some more effective? I presume the key is just to achieve conductivity.

3) Different concentrations of electrolytes?

4) How much current? (My guess is this is essentially a function of the above listed and the amount of contact area of the parts)
 

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Any suggestions how this could be applied to a largish area of rust on the top of the rear wing where the arial has been removed, the hole filled and then left to rust?

Roy.
 

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Wow i'd never thought of doing this before!

Just thinking back to my days in High School doing chemistry...

once you've 'buzzed' the part you're wanting to clean in using the electrolysis process try attaching a piece of Zinc to a hidden face of the part. Once you've given electrons to the part you dont want it rusting again! The zinc will sacrifice its electrons to the steel/iron part and prevent rust returning.

Sea-going ships often have massive chunks of sacrificial Zinc in them to prevent rusting.
 

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This is an interesting thread,
I have a 4AGE longblock with a thrown rod, so what if I put that in a big tub and tried this? Or would the aluminum head cause some sort of a problem? What if I just put the shortblock in there?
 

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what if the part can't be removed from the engine? anybody have any idea then? Could you use a wet towel ? or a sponge? Say you wanted to get the rust off some bolts that woulnd't come off.
 

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Chang, i think the actual part needs to soak in it??

Hey guys,

My left rear strut top is rusted out (due to the boot vent) you think I can put the whole top of the strut in??
 
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