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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had a horrible thought tonight. I have 8.1mm cams installed in a J-spec SC engine with 8.9:1 compression. I turned the crank 180 degrees WITHOUT the timing belt attached. Did I screw myself royally?????????
 

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Was there resistance when turning the engine? Not sure if your setup would be interference, but you feel when you're bending a valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There was what I thought to be alot of resistance. Luckily I measured with a TQ wrench 'cause I'm paranoid like that. At exactly 101 Ft/LBs(which is the tq setting for the crank bolt) it finally turned.
 

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it took 101 ft-lb to turn the crank????
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh god I'm screwed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So is there a way to check to see that the valves are indeed bend?
 

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Even with the spark plugs in and good compression you should have little difficulty turning the crank by hand. If it took 101ft/lbs to turn it, something was seizing it up, and from what you described, a few valves sounds just like that thing.
 

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I dont think youd be bending valves....your engine is a non interference engine, and so is every 4age out there......so your piston wont hit the valves. it does take a lot of torque to turn the crank by hand too. you should be in good hands. and if you ever get it started...if you bent your valves...an old trick would be to put a dollar bill to the exhaust pipe....and see if it sucks it in and spits it back out all the time. and another way of telling if you have bent valves is if you hear popping noises on idle from your exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You see thats the funny thing. It was awfully hard to turn so I removed the plugs. try to relieve the pressure. Even when I removed them it took that much force to finally get it to turn. After it did turn it was fairly easy to turn the other way.
 

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4ag's are non-interface from the factory. He has some cams in his engine which could make it interface, and from the sound of things, I'm pretty sure he found out it is.
 

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its always hard to get it to first turn, especially if it sat for a while or cold. you can do a leak down test to be sure but i bet you didn't bend anything. i don't think 101ft-lb is enough to bend a valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well the HKS cams are non-interference in the 8.0:1 USDM version but I don't know if the J-spec version is non-interference or not(with the HKS cams). I wasn't even thinking about it I just MADE an assumtion that it was the same.
 

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the 8.9 are almost the same as the 8.0s the difference is the there is alittle more material up were the spark plugs is. both the 8.0s and 8.9s have the same relives cut in the pistons for that valves. i don't think the pistons make a difference
 

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you can tell by looking in your ports with a light.
 

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Well, get that double checked first, if your cam lobes are big enough to push the valve all the way down....enough for the piston to hit the valves maybe, i personally don't have experience with hks cams, or any other cam modifications. but i would think they would only make the duration a bit longer but also not enough to make it an interference engine. I looked at my engine today that was already out..and i myself put it at TDC, to see if it was possible to hit the valves while pressing abit more on the valves at the same time during tdc...and its got quite to go before it hits it. i dont own a 4agze...but i would think its almost the same. .....and btw...when you were turning your crank shaft....was it in gear? because it makes a big difference when you do that, your crankshaft is trying to move your transmission =p. just double checking on ya, because mistakes like that happen and can throw of a diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
uspspro said:
you can tell by looking in your ports with a light.
Well I looked at three of the exhaust ports just now and they look good as best I can tell. The intake mani is still on so I can't see them. Would the bending be very obvious?
 

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sorry to steal your reply lol, but the bending would be obvious, and dont you have more lift on the intake side anyway, rather than the exhaust? So the first that would go would be the intake valve side rather than the exhaust side, if it ever did happen. as i said, you have a ways to go before it hits, i have my head apart and everything, it would be rediculous if the piston went 2 inches (exagerrated manner) past the block top surface boundary and moved into the head boundary...unless you grinded your head down like crazy. -_- which i highly doubt.
 
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