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Anyone know how accurate the 1:18 or so models of MR2s are?
I have a 3D scanner at work that is good for smallish objects, and I can likely import to solidworks or whatever. If I picked up a MK2 and scanned it, would that be useful to anyone here? Or would it be too flawed from being so small/just a model?
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Why not? Just do it. I'm sure it'll be as, if not more, accurate that my model. You can always scale up in solidworks to bring it to 1:1 size.
 

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its funny this thread should come back to life, as i took a ton of measurements off my MR2 several months ago to properly model it, but was too busy to do anything with them, and then started modelling the car up again last week to do some analysis. im trying to do the analysis in a sort of 2D form (very thin 3D profiles) so as to create as few surfaces and edges as possible, but not have to over-simplify the model. it will still be very useful data, but will actually be possible for my PC to process it in the first place lol

il post up as soon as ive got some results. assuming i manage to get any. hopefully this time il have a bit more success!!
 

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How about a model that incorporates a sun-roof, and most of us are not fortunate enough to have a hard top. I think we all know that with the sun roof popped, is different than down...
 

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finally got caught up on tests and such...started playing around with my analysis. My aero teacher and I are trying to work through Floworks. I can set up my intial conditions like velocity at 25 m/s (~60 mph) and boundary conditions for mass flow = density * Inlet Area (unsure about what Cross Sectional area to use here, the front of the computational domain?) * velocity (25 m/s). I can "run" the results and my computer takes about 20 mins to solve. Then I can "insert" "trajectory line" for velocity but im having a hard time figuring out how to set the trajectory lines to show the incoming flow. My trajectories literally go all over the place...haha. i will work on it more on thursday and update with some new pics...

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=264510&highlight=senior+design+project
 

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sweet thanks. i'll search "compendex" for the article. is there an online pdf? if not the library can get a hold of it...thanks!

2nd law FTW
 

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How would locating the rear spoiler on the rear of the roof affect downforce?I remember the Lancia Delta HF rally cars in the 80's had a rear spoiler mounted on the roof to aid in downforce ,car is bacially the same design as the Mk1's
 

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so, for the non-aerodynamicist.. is the passenger side vent a good area for ducting and airbox? if not, where on a MK1 would have cool air to feed a custom airbox?
 

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Discussion Starter #95
If you're trying to just get cold air for an intake, you can just make an intake that goes straight down with the filter above the DS axle. Air temps will be ambient and stable.
 

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superpilun said:
If you're trying to just get cold air for an intake, you can just make an intake that goes straight down with the filter above the DS axle. Air temps will be ambient and stable.

the filter is attached to the ITBs surrounded by a airbox.. I need a duct to feed the box some cool air.. :)
 

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bentheswift said:
Why don't you just duct it to one of the engine lid vents? As the simulations show, the pressure there is virtually ambient and the airflow is undoubtedly cold. There's zero gains to be had from using a "ram-air" duct, that is old news.
I'm not an aerodynamicist.. :)

From every thread I've read the sidevent does nothing.. I was thinking about sticking a NACA duct inplace of the scoop.. But I'm no aerodynamicist, so I have no idea if it works better..
 

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The NACA duct is useful for bringing in cold air. It would be a bitch to fabricate though, because NACA ducts must very, very accurately follow a profile of both depth and width.

The point here is just to find some cold air. I'd personally stay away from taking air from underneath the car, especially seeing the amount of rain that's falling here in the northwest (did you hear we are in a state of emergency right now??), going through a big puddle could get water into the intake. And considering that air temp significantly rises as you get closer to the ground, in hot climates. Anyways. All I'm trying to express is that there are virtually no gains to be had from trying to duct air into the scoop, the only thing that you can really expect is to put it in a cold-air zone, which is anywhere out of the engine bay.
 

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bentheswift said:
All I'm trying to express is that there are virtually no gains to be had from trying to duct air into the scoop, the only thing that you can really expect is to put it in a cold-air zone, which is anywhere out of the engine bay.
So what about a Tom's style C-pillar scoop ducted to the itb's? Its outside the engine bay, is sort of clean air I would assume and would have a sort of "ram air" effect that could help the itb's act more like real itb's with out having to put some trumpets on the engine and possibly loose a bit of "daily driveability" factor.

EDIT: Sorry about the run-on sentence, lol! After I read it over the second time I noticed it was. Heh, oh well.
 
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