MR2 Owners Club Forum banner

161 - 180 of 220 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Just got done reading your whole thread from the start, and I really like what you are doing. The EFR 6758 turbo definitely has me interested as it seems like the logical upgrade choice in comparison to a 20-30 year old turbo. I may be messaging you in the future about part numbers and such. Ultimate goal is to go standalone but I'm not sure which EMS I want yet. Ive had 2 different MS systems on a custom turbo miata build in the past, and was generally ok with the end result, but never blown away. My biggest issue is that I dont know much about tuning and will have to take the car somewhere to be tuned. Im trying to factor that in as well as I'd rather the tuner (whoever that ends up being) somewhat familiar with the EMS I end up going with.
If I end up the AEM route, Id definitely be interested in a quickie wiring guide. I have no issues with fabrication or wiring, but the tuning is where I get hung up.
keep up the good work and updates!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,416 Posts
I think there are a lot more people following than it appears. Great progress. I found MS worked ok on my old alltrac but that was with a custom vr setup and wasted spark. I would use something better next time. How was the boost gauge install? I was considering the same style that prime driven offer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #163
Here's what I found when I opened up the cluster:



Yes, that's duct tape over a rip in the circuit board/film...

I didn't take detailed pics during the Omori gauge install since it's well documented, but I did do some sanding to place it higher up towards the top of the cluster to center it in the cutout hole. If you watch Bob Pham's, you can see that he did some rough filing of the black mask for the gauge because it's offset down too low. Do ~1/8" of sanding up towards the top of where it touches to center it.

My cluster clear cover also had some odd splotches on it, I guess some cleaner that attacked it? Also quite a bit of scratches.

I took it off and used PlasticX plastic polish and a small fuzzy drill attachment to polish the inside and outside of it twice. It still has very minor splotching on it (seems almost like it etched the plastic?), but it came out really smooth with no scratches. Honestly looks 99% to a new cover so I was happy with it.

Before splotches and scratches (hard to capture):



Done!



Smooth:






I also screwed up on my wire routing by putting wires through the engine harness firewall boot. It was already torn by the previous owner, so no real damage done by me routing wires there, but now it'd be a real PITA to drop the engine with the harness. So to fix it I'm going to separate the extra standalone/accessory wires completely separately from the main engine wiring harness. I'm going to use this to go through the firewall bulkhead right by the ECU and wiring harness boot. I've measured a few times, and it should easily fit after I make a new bracket to move the Infinity over some more and give me more space for future around the firewall area.



Once I get all the wiring stable I'll post up a quick guide in the Standalone forum and probably link it in this thread just so people can find it if they're reading along.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
949 Posts
I've read the entire thread. Good content, came for the EFR but stayed for the rest.

Keep it up, please. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #165
Haven't touched the car much in the past couple of weeks, needed a bit of a break to be honest...

But I do have some time off around Xmas, so I'm going to work on dropping the S2000 driver's seat pan, and putting in the electrical bulkhead connector.


I've been musing about a nicer intercooler lately. The car came with the usual knockoff GReddy-style with a bar and plate ~4" thick core. It works ok for light street driving, but a long pull shows IATs get dangerously high. I've definitely seen near 150 F in maybe 80-85 F ambient temps. I am scared of what that'd translate to on track... I've got lots of safety built into the tune for high IATs (boost target ramps down, timing retards back, AFR richens slightly), but it's still something I think can be improved.

Wishlist of design features:
1. I like the side mount location. A top mount in the engine bay seems like it'd be a total pain to work around.
2. Keep stock side vent on car
3. No chopping car up


With this in mind, I've actually thought about doing a dual pass IC that's about the same ~8"W x 10" L core as the GReddy knockoffs, but using 2x 3.5" thick cores in serial configuration. Basically the back-most core would get charge air from the compressor, then it would go to the far end tank, and turn 180 degrees and come up the front-most core. The advantage is the delta T between the cooling air and the charge air would be maintained at the highest possible delta. The hottest charge air is "pre-cooled" to a reasonable level through the first core, and then further cooled through the next core. Along the same lines, the cooling air for the first 3.5" is only cooling the pre-cooled air, then the next 3.5" of core would have it warmer, but only cooling air right off the turbo. This would prevent the problem with really thick cores where the last ~1/2 of the thick core doesn't do much at high load, and you end up mixing that almost barely cooled air in with the rest of the cooled air.


Packaging would be kinda tight, but I think there's room up top to fit two pipes for an inlet/outlet.

Thoughts? Anybody ever try something like this?

The only thing that annoys me is the thought of making a bunch of end tanks from scratch. It's a lot of cutting/welding/fit up. I also worry that maybe for as good as it performs over the GReddy knockoff, it might still not really do much at full bore due to the lack of general cooling air coming in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,416 Posts
A top mount in the engine bay seems like it'd be a total pain to work around.

Thoughts? Anybody ever try something like this?
Top mount was something I had considered. Like the ATS kit. I measured to get a rough idea of what would fit. I came up with this one with a 9" core https://www.maperformance.com/produ...JgX97Rd3dCVv0UCCd1SpnRbSBu3Ni5JRoCCUkQAvD_BwE
I calculated the core was something like 2.5-3x the volume of a typical aftermarket side mount. It would make intake packaging a little more demanding and will need a pusher fan underneath on most of the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #167
You mean surface area? That has 12.5 x 9 = 112.5 in^2, while the common GReddy style is a hair shy of 10x8 = 80 in^2 (let's call it 75 in^2 due to it being a metric round number less than that). 112.5/75 = 140% the surface area.

The top mount issues I see are you're likely to be getting quite a bit hotter air unless you duct it to the side vent, and that sounds like a major PITA to both work on the car and make.

That's what leads me to trying to stuff a slightly larger, but more efficient core in the stock side mount location and just taking what I get from that. I do plan to do water/meth injection at some point as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Maybe this is a stupid idea, but could you run a second side mount IC on the drivers side where the factory airbox is/was? I was also thinking a water/meth setup would be a good option, but I wouldnt want to use it as a bandaid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,416 Posts
ATS claim there is a heap of air ducted from the bottom of the engine bay via the stock under shields. They got very consistent IAT's from many back to back Dyno runs. You just need two fans to push it up and through. The volume and surface is much greater than any side mount and the heat sink capacity is also much greater for very long pulls.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #170
Maybe this is a stupid idea, but could you run a second side mount IC on the drivers side where the factory airbox is/was? I was also thinking a water/meth setup would be a good option, but I wouldnt want to use it as a bandaid.
I think that'd add a ton of lag by adding another IC and all that extra piping. Probably pretty tough to really mount it too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #171
ATS claim there is a heap of air ducted from the bottom of the engine bay via the stock under shields. They got very consistent IAT's from many back to back Dyno runs. You just need two fans to push it up and through. The volume and surface is much greater than any side mount and the heat sink capacity is also much greater for very long pulls.

There's some air coming in the engine bay, but it seems hard to believe it'd be close to ambient like pulling it from the side duct.


Has anybody run a top mount IC on track? That'd be a good test for high speed/high load driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I think that'd add a ton of lag by adding another IC and all that extra piping. Probably pretty tough to really mount it too.
This is what I was thinking as well, but now I am really curious as to how it would work haha. Mounting would be strange, but at least you have a turbo that cut down on most of the lag. ATS claims their top mount doesn't heat soak after a ton of pulls, I understand thats some strain on the engine, but isnt exactly real world testing with the car moving on track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #173
A "top mount" IC doesn't really need to be mounted in the top of the engine bay if it's not ducted. That's honestly probably the worst place for it because it'll likely be drawing in the hottest air possible. I wonder what size core could be fit on the driver's side firewall, with the core parallel to the firewall with just enough space to get airflow across the core. If you're relying on powerful fans for all your IC airflow, that seems like a pretty good place for it honestly. The underbody scoops are pushing fresh air into the engine bay right in that region, and you are reasonably close to the side vent as well. It'd also let you mount to the existing studs on the firewall.

The shift cables and fuel filler tube would be the only real obstacles...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #175
I know, that's why I said "top of the engine bay." All of the flow has been flowing over the hot engine/exhaust/transmission by the time it gets up to the top. Plus a lower mounting of the heavy IC would slightly improve the CG height (very slightly) and generally have access to cooler air while being more "out of the way."

I generally like how the SMIC is "out of the way," so I see having a big top mount hanging out in the engine bay being a bit of a pain. I'd rather mount it lower if it fits and then make a bit of a scoop/duct to pick up some underbody flow.

I think the compressor output can be rotated down so it'd be a pretty straight shot to a lower mounted IC. I'll mock it up with some cardboard and see what fits next week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #176
Got the 50 pin connector all wired up. It was a little fiddly once it started getting populated because I'm using fairly thick adhesive lined heat shrink on all the wires, but still doable. The trick is to tin both the pin and the wire with solder, then just get the pin to flow while making contact with the wire so it all flows together. Good solder joint, minimal fuss with wishing you had 4 hands.

I did grab some pics of the process.

Beginning of the trunk side connector:



Finished... lots o' wires!



Mounted in trunk with neoprene gasket I made:



In engine bay (this is where it disconnects):




It's super easy to reach down and undo the connector with two fingers, but like all mil-spec connectors, you have to push it in past a detent to then spin it off so they're extremely vibration resistant.


I just need to do some wire clean-up in the engine bay and reloom everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #177
Pulled a muscle in my back picking the kids up or something, so I got very little done on the car this weekend... This getting old thing sucks...

Anyway, I took some time to think about a redye of the S2000 seats. I also want to fix a small scratch on my factory leather driver's door panel and change the color to something a bit darker. I liked the two tone stock '93+ interior, but as time went on, the stock ivory color is a bit too light for me. The S2000 tan is a bit darker/more orange than the very pale yellow/cream of the ivory leather, so while they're close to the door panels, they don't match.

Here's a reference to how it looks now:



As you can see, it needs a little bit of minor repair work on the bolster, some foam repair on the seat bottom, and just a general freshen up with a redye.

Here's some options on colors for the seats:

BMW Caramel (I'd say similar in tone to S2000 tan, just a bit deeper/darker, maybe hint more orange):






BMW Modena (more orange, brighter than Caramel):






BMW Cinnamon (more red than previous, probably too red for the carpet):






Here they are all laid out so you can spot the differences easier (although the colors are kinda deceiving compared to what they look like on a full seat as you can tell from the above pics):





Thoughts? I'm also conflicted on if I should maybe dye the carpet a hair darker. It's in reasonably good shape, but does have a spot that's worn on the driver's rocker area where a previous owner must have repeatedly scuffed the carpet getting out so it's pretty bare in one ~3" strip. I could probably put in a repair panel if I dyed it and get it pretty hidden (carpet repairs are generally pretty easy as long as you take your time due to the pile hiding so much). Or I could just leave it and have it be lighter. I'm not building a show car, just a fun/good condition driver that's tweaked to make it better in my mind without losing the spirit of the MR2.

Second opinions are always good. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
always been a big fan of the cinnamon. more of a brown than a tan. IMO the s2k seats have too much yellow in them. more red or brown/ tan along with a carpet dye would look awesome with the teal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,609 Posts
The darker you go, wont the wear and tear over time on the seats be more obvious?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #180
always been a big fan of the cinnamon. more of a brown than a tan. IMO the s2k seats have too much yellow in them. more red or brown/ tan along with a carpet dye would look awesome with the teal.
Yea, I like cinnamon too, but it's almost always paired with a darker interior than the one found in the two tone MR2. Not sure how it'd look with really light carpets and black dash/center console.

I also think it's a bit more of a modern look than I want to go with. I actually like the car to be period correct to a point (but still modded). Tough to really explain what that means on seat color, but the Caramel and Modena colors are very 90s.

Dying the carpet I'd really rather not do, so it's not my default plan now. I really just want to get the interior in "good" shape with matching leather that's reasonably repaired all around.


The darker you go, wont the wear and tear over time on the seats be more obvious?
I guess a little, but leather wear is pretty obvious no matter the color. The good side effect of going this route is I'll have an easily available dye color (why I'm looking at BMW colors - they're readily available and cover a wide range of shades). The S2000 and MR2 leather colors are not off the shelf available, and if I had to pick one, it'd be the S2000 color, but I'm not super crazy about either color to be honest.



Caramel is a nice color, classy, but doesn't really pop. Modena is not for everybody, but it's pretty good looking in person. Just not sure it'd jive with the carpets. It's a very classic/bright color like what you'd find in an old Ferrari as "tan."


Cinnamon as mentioned also looks good, but maybe a tad too brown from what I was initially envisioning. But I suppose it would look really nice next to teal as well.The carpets are pale yellow tan though, whereas the seats and door panels are all brown and reds... Might look very odd...
 
161 - 180 of 220 Posts
Top