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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
No real updates - mostly waiting for nixspeed to be able to take the rest of the build on. I did test fit (as much as possible) all the bumpers i have in my possession lol. Sure is nice to walk out in the garage and see it in person whenever i want in the mean time though :)

i like em all of course. surprisingly (to me) the wife says she likes the kei office.

Last one is the odd TOMs angle i'm talking about.
 

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They all look good. I vote for the second one, light gray? (DSC_3622, 3625 & 3627). It has a clean flowing finished look to it. And the flat bottom edge compliments the flat outer edge of the fender and sill extensions. Still, how to merge it with that front fender? If you carry the flat outer edge of the fender all the way down to hit the bottom lip? Not sure how that would look. The black one is really really similar but loses the squared off bottom edge. So would it be easier to merge the one with the squared off bottom lip into the fender arch, or the one without it?

The first gray primer one looks too busy and the FLAT slab of wire mesh looks cheap. There is a really simple way to make stainless wire mesh look really good, not some flat two dimensional slab stolen from a screen door. Have you ever seen how car manufacturers stamp out fenders by pressing sheetmetal between male and female dies in a giant hydraulic presses. Same idea.

Trace the bumper air inlet opening on paper. Center the trace on a larger piece of mdf. Drill a starter hole and then cut it out the shape with a jig saw. Now you have the male shape you want and an mdf outer ring. You can even build up the male center shape with more mdf and a sander to create depth. When you like it, lay a larger piece of stainless mesh over it, then press the outer ring down on top using clamps, tap tap tap. Glue a backing board to the face of the outer ring for support. Now it looks like an MDF female die.

When you're done, the mesh takes on whatever curved shape you created with a nice sharp 90 degree return edge on the sides to give it strength and support and some 3 dimensional depth. You can play around with knocking the sharp edge off the male mold, and sanding enough clearance between the edges so the mesh has room to fold in between them. You can even adjust the foot of your jigsaw to give a bevel cut.

Once you've got your shape trim the excess with aviation snips or a dremel with a cutoff wheel. Wear gloves cause it will cut a bitch. Leave a little extra, hammer it out flat to the outside and now you've got a mounting flange. The finished result viewed from head on looks like your desired shape with a recessed step flange. When mounted, it floats in the opening. And the more shape you give it, the stronger it gets.

Here's the real stuff: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/keywordsearch.asp?KeywordStart=stainless mesh
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
They all look good. I vote for the second one, light gray? (DSC_3622, 3625 & 3627). It has a clean flowing finished look to it. And the flat bottom edge compliments the flat outer edge of the fender and sill extensions. Still, how to merge it with that front fender? If you carry the flat outer edge of the fender all the way down to hit the bottom lip? Not sure how that would look. The black one is really really similar but loses the squared off bottom edge. So would it be easier to merge the one with the squared off bottom lip into the fender arch, or the one without it?

The first gray primer one looks too busy and the FLAT slab of wire mesh looks cheap. There is a really simple way to make stainless wire mesh look really good, not some flat two dimensional slab stolen from a screen door. Have you ever seen how car manufacturers stamp out fenders by pressing sheetmetal between male and female dies in a giant hydraulic presses. Same idea.

Trace the bumper air inlet opening on paper. Center the trace on a larger piece of mdf. Drill a starter hole and then cut it out the shape with a jig saw. Now you have the male shape you want and an mdf outer ring. You can even build up the male center shape with more mdf and a sander to create depth. When you like it, lay a larger piece of stainless mesh over it, then press the outer ring down on top using clamps, tap tap tap. Glue a backing board to the face of the outer ring for support. Now it looks like an MDF female die.

When you're done, the mesh takes on whatever curved shape you created with a nice sharp 90 degree return edge on the sides to give it strength and support and some 3 dimensional depth. You can play around with knocking the sharp edge off the male mold, and sanding enough clearance between the edges so the mesh has room to fold in between them. You can even adjust the foot of your jigsaw to give a bevel cut.

Once you've got your shape trim the excess with aviation snips or a dremel with a cutoff wheel. Wear gloves cause it will cut a bitch. Leave a little extra, hammer it out flat to the outside and now you've got a mounting flange. The finished result viewed from head on looks like your desired shape with a recessed step flange. When mounted, it floats in the opening. And the more shape you give it, the stronger it gets.

Here's the real stuff: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/keywordsearch.asp?KeywordStart=stainless mesh
Thanks for the feedback! The one you are talking about is the TOM's bumper, i do really like how everything flows except how it curves inward instead of outward towards the wheel arch as we've been mentioning. I don't have a great solution other than cutting and expanding where the bumper starts to curve inward and literally try to widen it there. That would create a very large flat surface behind the turn signal area much like this:



It's actually one of my least favourite parts of that bumper even on a stock car (although looks quite nice on that M3 :)). The other thing i could do is basically do that whole area up custom and cut and recreate the curves of the bumper. it's just rare enough i'd have a hard time really cutting it up although i'm pretty sure i will have to essentially ruin (for using on a stock body) whatever bumper i end up using...

If i end up going the mesh way i will certainly keep all that in mind.
 

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Hi Bret, I am fairly new to the Forum. I have been admiring your car through your detailed thread. I have been measuring up for wide wheels. Did you have to modify your inner front wings to clear your 18 x 10 (-10) front wheels on full lock ? Thanks, Billy
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
Hi Bret, I am fairly new to the Forum. I have been admiring your car through your detailed thread. I have been measuring up for wide wheels. Did you have to modify your inner front wings to clear your 18 x 10 (-10) front wheels on full lock ? Thanks, Billy
Hi Billy, welcome to the forum! I believe somewhere back in the early pages i detailed the work to get those wheels (really the tires) to fit full lock:

http://mr2oc.com/61-3sgte-turbo/661921-custom-wide-body-build-thread-4.html (posts 62 and 63)

it was a good amount of work that no one will ever see but had to be done :)

bret
 

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Discussion Starter · #267 ·
Still.. no update. Other than the car seems to be gathering more and more parts on top of it :( Anyone wanna buy those ZE40s sitting on the rear? :)

I did roll some 19s up next to the car and they look HUGE. it's not that much larger than the 18s but the face style just make them look two sizes up. Also those puny 265s won't cut it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
Love this car man, was following it on the metal shops IG for a while, had no idea you were on here :) Can't wait to see it all get finished out!
Thanks dude, yeah i've been here all along :p

Everything is moving slow these days but maybe next year the car will start to come together? hopefully? In the very least my wife will want the garage spot back soon :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Hey mr2oc - long time no see. Since we're in an alternate universe these days progress has pretty much ground to a halt (honestly it was pretty slow pre-pandemic). Waiting on the world to get going again especially for the work on the custom transmission coming from Europe.

I sincerely hope everyone is staying safe and doing their part...

I have a couple of small updates that i realise i never put here and since we all have a bit more computer time these days, why not.

I got these clear turn signal Zenki lights (along with oem el glow mr2 badge) from a guy in the UK. Very happy with how they match the car and the look:
69785


Additionally, i finally found a "special edition" zenki center panel. My original plan was to use the "Back view" panel:
69787


but after finally finding this other panel, i'm pretty convinced that it's the way to go although it would block my cool el glow mr2 badge (sorry no pics mocked up):
69788


The other other option is the zenki T020 panel i have, but that deserves to go on a T020 setup i think :)

You might notice the wheels are hilariously small in that pic of the car. I took the BCs off a while ago and put them up for sale. What's on there right now is my watanabes from my stock body. They are 16x9.5+19 to give you some perspective on just how wide the bodywork is. Speaking of which, anyone want to buy a minty set of 16" Watanabe RS-8s? :p

So you're probably wondering ... what wheels are going on? Well i don't have em in my hands yet, but here's a preview:
69786


They are BBS RSIIs converted to 3 piece. I took the opportunity to go slightly wider in the rear but the front specs stayed the same (new tires coming for the rear too):
18x10-10 275/35 toyo proxes r888r
18x12-15 335/30 toyo proxes r888r

It's a custom setup with 17" concave faces stepped to 18" 3 piece welded.

I'm sure the wheel change will be quite controversial but the first time i saw a 3pc RSII i fell in love with them. I've also got a backup setup of 17s in the works because you can never have too many wheels, right? Speaking of which, anyone want to buy a set of super aggressive like-new BC forged LE51s? :p

The more i stare at this car in my garage, the more i'm not really happy with any of the bumper options. I actually ended up selling the Kei Office and plan on installing the TOMs on my stock body along with the rest of a T020 setup i've got stashed away :) That leaves the Air Walker, which is actually quite a nice option, but i have that full kit that i don't really want to split up. Speaking of which, anyone want to buy a full authentic Air Walker body kit? :p

My new potential plan is to have the front bumper cover made in metal like the rear, plus the MadPSI lid remade and actually consider keeping the car in the raw metal look. I would have to figure out an engine lid as well.

Lastly, and perhaps kinda oddly, this short article popped up the other day What the World Needs Now Is a Beautiful Widebody Toyota MR2 Build

Kinda nice to see coverage even though it's nowhere near done. Although a little odd at the same time to randomly just see your car show up on the internet lol. The car does get shared by random folks on the MR2 facebook groups every 3 months or so with a new set of people asking "have you guy seen this??". I'll take it as a compliment.

Stay safe.

bret
 

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Hey Bret, With the world on "stand-by" I'm sure you're getting lots of time staring at that beauty parked in your garage. I have a question- Where did you find that red reflective center panel, the "MR2 Special Edition"one? I have been on the lookout for one for years now with absolutely no luck! Any thoughts? Thank you! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Hey Bret, With the world on "stand-by" I'm sure you're getting lots of time staring at that beauty parked in your garage. I have a question- Where did you find that red reflective center panel, the "MR2 Special Edition"one? I have been on the lookout for one for years now with absolutely no luck! Any thoughts? Thank you! Bob
Hey there - i found the panel where i find 99% of the rare stuff in my hoard. The yahoo japan auctions. i was also looking for this for many years. I've only ever seen one for sale and it was in Europe. I actually don't even have much info on it, like who makes it or anything. It's a cool well made part though, i can take more pics if it can be helpful but as for finding another, i'm afraid i have no suggestions :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
boy it's been a while. Unfortunately covid continues to push back moving this car forward pretty much at all. Still waiting on the billet transmission and am also waiting on Nixspeed to move to their new shop so i can get the shell out of my garage and moving forward there.

So what does one do in the meantime? Explore wheel options of course!

I got my custom three piece BBS RSIIs finally and went to fitting them. The fronts are identical sizes to the BC forged (which i still have sitting in the garage... boo) - 18x10-10 (which is a tight fit for sure. i'm waiting on HUX to release the custom knuckles to help pull the wheel in a bit):
72726


The BC rears were 18x11.5-25 and the BBS were made 18x12-15. To be honest i wasn't expecting the rear to be so much more insert on the new wheels but i'm actually glad as it will allow me to take out some of that rear camber as well. Either math is hard or the offsets are actually what he said (but close) or a little of both.
72727


I really love how these things ended up but i've been dealing with some pretty ridiculous fitment issues when it comes to the lug nuts. The waffle center caps need very small nuts to fit, that in itself is not a problem. The guy who put these together dual drilled them (originally 5x120) and the new holes take a 45 degree cone seat. I talked to him and he said it was very common in Europe but for the life of me i couldn't find anything in the states or online. Usually a 45 degree seat is nascar style and is used on wheels that have no center caps so although i could technically find nuts that fit the bill, they were a 1" socket. Because of the centercaps though, i literally did not have enough room to tighten them with any socket wrench in existence (the other nuts in this picture were my old rays 60 degree and too tall).
72729

72728


After weeks of research and attempts at finding adapters or lug nuts that fit i ended up finding a place out east that makes custom steel lug nuts. I reached out to https://stainlesssteellugnuts.com/ and told them i needed a 3/4" tall nut with a 45 degree cone seat, an open end, and a 19mm (or smaller) head. A week later i had them in my possession and the wheels were mounted properly
72730


Who would have thought that just putting these things on would be so difficult?

Anyway because i'm a numbskull and insane, i had also reached out to a guy who makes custom two and three wheels (mostly oem as a base and then turns them into wheels someone actually wants). I had long wanted to see what he could do some some old school faces i had sitting around (OG 14" work equip casting five spokes) and a while ago i had them shipped out to him. I wanted to have a 17" setup to be able to swap with the 18s and ended up with these:
72731


Obviously they are quite similar to the BC forged but these are literally one of a kind and a nice mix of retro and modern IMO :) They were originally 14x6.5+4, 14x7-2 and converted to 17x10-5, 17x12-17. I have no tires for them yet so i haven't mounted them at all. Looking at a 275/40r17 and 315/35r17 although given the speed of the project i'm not going to spend a ton on R888Rs or NT01s while the car is down for probably another year or two.

I encourage you all to check him out and give him business if you're in the market: Login • Instagram

hope everyone is doing as well as possible.

bret
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Welp we're making progress but nothing worth pics but nice to move forward again. We've decided to go away from the full custom dogbox as the company we were waiting on was so backed up from covid they pretty much weren't going to get to my project any time soon. So we're going a different route -- a built DSG with a custom adapter plate from HUX racing. It's actually a little more simple than the old servo setup we were planning on and i'm pretty excited about the DSG.

I also mounted a set of 315 35 R888Rs i found for cheap on those wheels i posted above. It fits nicely but i'm worried it won't clear the big brakes but they are so much lighter than the RSIIs...

76436

76435

76438


Even with the 315 there's actually about .5" room on both sides. Pretty sure i could shove a 335 if i wanted, especially since R888R usually run quite wide :)
76437


Hopefully the car gets back in the shop soon. Once we have the adapter plate from HUX as well as the built trans back from a specialty shop here in Denver called Bluewater performance (which should be soon) it'll really start moving forward again. In the meantime i'll just keep buying/building wheels, apparently (no, seriously. i have another set i'm building).

bret
 

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Discussion Starter · #278 ·
actual progress!

We got a custom flywheel made by TTV racing (TTV Racing Component Flywheel & Clutch Manufacturers | Flywheels, steel flywheels, lightweight, race, competition flywheels, Pulleys, Valve guides,) for the new transmission setup and we've got measurements sent over to Hux so hopefully the adapter plate is in the works for real. The trans itself is still waiting for the diff to actually be assembled, still backed up "due to covid" or something.

Wheel Automotive tire Tire Bicycle part Crankset


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Auto part Gas


Hopefully more progress soon. i still have the shell in my garage and it's covered in crap :( but once we get trans back we'll get it in the shop and be able to install the actual longblock so that would be exciting. Something tells me the custom axles we had made for the e153 won't work with this trans :( We'll see though. AKA anyone want to buy 1000tq capable axles?
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
nice updates on the custom billet valve cover we're doing for the car. Stock gaskets fit nicely.

Office equipment Bumper Gas Typewriter Machine

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Varnish

Gas Machine Rectangle Auto part Metal


Yes, it's stupidly expensive (although on the scale of things on this car it's pretty much standard), but it's going to be a great way to handle the new COP setup without any adapters, better cooling, baffling, etc. plus obviously can customize pretty much anything about it. Well and by that i mean the shop can, i have no clue.
 
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