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Discussion Starter #1
Went to a mustang dyno today in El Paso, TX. It's at a garage called "G-tuned".

The owner's name is Robert, cool dude. They primarily tune LS or K series motors, they have QUITE the collection of Honda's. NSX to CRX in the garage.

Anyway, I have the following things done to my car, and made 191 whp @12-13 psi
BOV delete
Manual boost controller
Unplugged map to disable boost cut (even though I didn't go above 16psi)
Straight pipe
Cold air intake (is this really a mod?)

So mostly stock. No dyno sheet today, will remember to grab that from them next time I go.

191 @13psi
162 @7.5psi
^ Lmao the irony
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Holds power better between shifts. Blow off valves are pretty useless for turbo cars imo. "Race cars" never really use them.
 

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1990 MR2 Turbo w/full GReddy package under the engine cover.
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No offense, but I'm wondering why so low? Here is my dyno chart from my 3S-GTE Celica, GenII, CT26, full exhaust and no other mods. I haven't dyno'd my MR2 yet but I assume it will be similar but slightly higher with the CT20b (The Celica now is fully modded, WRC CT20b and making significantly more power - Note that this chart is 12 years old)
The only reason I ask, is because my numbers looked similar to yours on my first run before I found several small boost leaks on the dyno. They were sneaky leaks too because they didn't manifest until near peak boost but greatly affected the numbers. I think you may have some similar leaks and can find more "free" power in there. Probably should upgrade that intercooler soon, too.
72369
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The only gas available is 91 octane, limited to 13psi. The manual boost controller isn't as effective as an electronic one. The wastegate flapper door will start to open on it's own close to 13-14psi because the stock spring in the actuator can't hold it shut. I have no boost leaks, it was just hot out in El Paso, and my motor has 171,000 miles. I need to do an ignition tune up, new plugs / wires / distributor cap. All of this should net similar results. From what I've gathered, my results are pretty common.
 

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1990 MR2 Turbo w/full GReddy package under the engine cover.
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Oh, there it is! If you notice the date on my chart, I actually waited until February of the year I built that car to get my baseline dyno. I'm also dead on sea level in Houston, you've got some altitude out west in Hell Paso, I'm sure. I used a helper spring on that turbo to keep the wastegate shut longer, as well.
On the wires, plugs and distributor cap and rotor, I can not stress highly enough to use OEM everything. Gap the plug to .028, too.
Nice shifting in the video BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
'Preciate it lmao, had some practice in my old aw11 SC. Same E series trans, they feel very similar. I'm ordering all the OEM stuff for sure, NGK plugs to .028 and all that I've heard lol. Probably not going to dyno on stock gen2 again, will dyno next when I'm taking my gen5 in for a baseline and then tune.
 

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1990 MR2 Turbo w/full GReddy package under the engine cover.
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Everyone will tell you to use NGK Coppers and change them every 3k miles. I'm not saying that's not good practice but I've been running NGK Iridium and changing them every 6 months-year on two daily driven 3S-GTE's for two decades now. I'd prefer to save the wear and tear on the threads and the hassle of changing the plugs every oil change (Especially with the intercooler setup on the Celica).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did an ignition tuneup, a pump locally was selling 93 and I put in some octane booster. 6 gallons of 93 from nearly empty + a bottle of VP octane booster.

Turned boost up to 16psi on a larger intercooler core with improved 9" fan. Car pulls a bit harder but boost still drops off by redline due to the nature of a manual boost controller on the stock wastegate actuator. Thinking peak horsepower may have been pushed just over 200 finally. Ran 191 @12psi, not sure what it's sitting at now. Will have to get it dyno'd in January when I'm back from NTC training in California.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh, and no stuttering or odd stuff resulting from detonation, in fact, car pulls smoother than it ever has. Don't think I have anything to worry about as long as I'm not hitting 16psi when it's 80+ degrees out. Getting colder out now this time of year.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The ct26 doesn't hold full boost to redline, it's not the boost controller.
Sweet, will refrain from wasting my money on this turbo then. I'll have to look at upgrades down the road. I'd like to get a BEAMS head and do a 5sgte hybrid build at some point but that's a long way down the road. Current plan is gen5 and EMU Black ECU. I'd like to just run stock boost I think, and make around 250whp, get some launch control and whatnot set up.
 

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The ct15 on the gen5 doesnt hold boost to redline either haha. The billet upgrade on the ct15 is supposed to fix that.

Depending on what tires you use and how hard you launch you might want to look at upgraded axle cages.
 
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