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Discussion Starter #1
Can't seem to get the car to start after installing my racerx crank trigger kit and COPs. Idled and started fine with just COPs installed on stock triggers but for the life of me I can't get this bitch to start now. At best if I let it accumulate some fuel in the intake, and then hold WOT to stop injection, I get some popping and backfiring.. Followed multiple old posts on here to properly line up the crank wheel and from what I can understand it seems to be correct as I;m getting an rpm reading and it says it's synchronizing. Confirmed with timing light that ignition is at 10 degrees BTDC. I do get occasional trigger errors, usually about unexpected missing tooth but they only seem to happen after I release the key to stop cranking. EMU help says that may be due to an issue with trigger wheel concentricity. It seems pretty flat and mounted on the crank adapter evenly but I'm about to pull it off and put it in between some wood with some weights on top because I'm frankly not sure WTF else to do..



Anyone gone through this before?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Fixed it thanks to ATS Scott. Needed an ignition offset of 2. Don't understand why but I'm not gonna argue with success...
 

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Hi, I have a fully built 5sgte and also purchased a new emu black. I'm also purchasing the racer x coil on plug and was hoping you can tell me what crank wheel you got and why? I've read so much about pros and cons of lessor teeth (12 teeth wheel) vs having a missing tooth (36-1 or 60-2 wheel). And frankly, it seems to come down to ems capability to process as well as performance (rpm/cams/etc).
 

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Hi, I have a fully built 5sgte and also purchased a new emu black. I'm also purchasing the racer x coil on plug and was hoping you can tell me what crank wheel you got and why? I've read so much about pros and cons of lessor teeth (12 teeth wheel) vs having a missing tooth (36-1 or 60-2 wheel). And frankly, it seems to come down to ems capability to process as well as performance (rpm/cams/etc).
It comes down to resolution. The higher the tooth count the more resolution can be provided, however it also increases the chances of triggering errors if the EMS is not capable of processing that many teeth per revolution. At 7000 RPM and a 60-2 trigger wheel the system must process 6766 teeth per second. With that said most EMS are capable of this simple task and so much more. We have found that a 12 tooth trigger paired with a single tooth cam provides rock solid timing and more than enough resolution for most enthusiasts.
 

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It comes down to resolution. The higher the tooth count the more resolution can be provided, however it also increases the chances of triggering errors if the EMS is not capable of processing that many teeth per revolution. At 7000 RPM and a 60-2 trigger wheel the system must process 6766 teeth per second. With that said most EMS are capable of this simple task and so much more. We have found that a 12 tooth trigger paired with a single tooth cam provides rock solid timing and more than enough resolution for most enthusiasts.
What about modifying a 36-1 wheel to become 18-2? I mean choices are limited and the 12 tooth wheel has no missing teeth anyway.
 

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What about modifying a 36-1 wheel to become 18-2? I mean choices are limited and the 12 tooth wheel has no missing teeth anyway.
You could use a 18 tooth trigger wheel, not sure why you would as the common wheel choices work quite well. The 12 tooth trigger wheel (no missing teeth) is aligned to the closest tooth at cylinder number 1 TDC.
 

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A 12 tooth wheel has more than enough resolution. 18-2 is a pattern I've never heard of, so it'd be really oddball.

You don't need missing crank teeth with a cam sync signal. IMO, missing crank teeth can cause tuning issues on some EMS (if cam sync and missing tooth happen at same time it can mess up some EMS timing algorithms) and don't really offer much benefit other than the potential to run in batch fire mode. For a 4 banger, no sense in even thinking about batch fire, so might as well go no missing teeth.
 
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