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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I would get the Delphi pump but they normally have the Denso pump. Both are good options
I'm going to have someone help me do the labor to replace this probably this weekend and throughout the next two weeks so I am looking for the new pump at this point.

I definitely prefer the Denso 951-0012 but that's not available anywhere, so I kind of have to give up on that. I'm looking at Delphi at this point. How has that pump been holding up for you?
 

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I'm going to have someone help me do the labor to replace this probably this weekend and throughout the next two weeks so I am looking for the new pump at this point.

I definitely prefer the Denso 951-0012 but that's not available anywhere, so I kind of have to give up on that. I'm looking at Delphi at this point. How has that pump been holding up for you?
I actually have the denso pump in my MR2 right now, working great still. Ive put delphi pumps in previous vehicles and they worked fine. The Delphi pump in my jeep lasted 4 years of abuse before I sold it and the pump still worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I actually have the denso pump in my MR2 right now, working great still. Ive put delphi pumps in previous vehicles and they worked fine. The Delphi pump in my jeep lasted 4 years of abuse before I sold it and the pump still worked.
That's very good. Checked Autozone and the Delphi is nearing $150 after taxes, so Rock Auto might be my go-to at $100 plus shipping. Wonder what the shipping costs will be like. Just want something that can last another two decades so I don't have to worry about this nightmare again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
Update 20220406

Diagnosed some stuff and found they are ok.
  1. Distributor cap and rotor may need replacing but it should get the car to at least start.
  2. Plug wires should be fine (Sumitomo), but one moisture boot is sort of loose.
  3. Took out the spark plug cover and the spark plugs to vent out any possible moisture.
Fuel tank:
  1. Took out spare tank with pump/sending unit and wired it (+/-) directly to battery to test fuel pump. I believe that is the factory pump and makes super quiet buzzes when wired up, or might be on its way out.
  2. Jumped the OBD terminals for the fuel pump again and confirmed no sound coming from the car's original tank.
  3. Voltage for fuel pump power reading ~10V, so adequate power.
  4. Going to clean spare tank and reuse the old pump to determine whether there are more critical problems and determine if worth continuing.
  5. Get a new fuel filter (OEM 23300-19175 or Duralast FF6000DL)
After getting tank/pump replaced, next step is taking apart the coolant hoses and flushing them clean of the rocky coolant chunks. Hopefully waterpump will be good for the duration of the test starts/runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Update 20220414

Finally got the fuel pump, albeit unnecessarily expensive from Autozone, almost 200 in damage. Autozone had to get it directly from Denso, which is a discontinued part number 951-0012. Got the wrong strainer (desiccant pack look-like Delphi BFS0075), need the one with a hard case/housing (Delphi BFS0063). The body on frame vehicles from the era use the desiccant pack style strainers, but I don't know if there is a difference so I'll just exchange for an exact one to be safe.

The tank on the car has been removed, was a pain the breather/evap lines running up the firewall came down as well (couldn't find the hoses). Long needle nose pliers do wonders here. Wrestling it down was hard, can't imagine putting it back up.

The spare tank, pump, and sender looks ok (off an '87 car), which sat in a shed after parted out. The original tank officially turned 34 years old last week but had accumulated bad gas over the past 13 years. Will try to wash both tanks with soapy water and shake it up with gasoline and the Berryman tank cleaner chemical. Don't know if the pump that came out the spare tank is working okay, sounds super quiet when tested, not sure how loud it should be.

Moral of the story, don't let gas stay in a car. Especially if you have an '87+ car that has a drain bolt (3/8" socket). Learned it the hard way and doing tedious and strenuous work just to get a small part exchanged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Update 20220420

The hoses and everything are back in the car and after a few cranks to run the new fuel into the pump and filter, it started right up like it was driven yesterday. Sounds strong but shut the car off almost immediately since the coolant needs to be addressed and didn't want to wake up more neighbors at 3AM. Turns out the fuel pump was the culprit, as expected, even the new Denso pump is super quiet, so I assume the factory one that came out of the spare tank (that's in the car now) might actually be working. At least with a new pump, strainer, and filter, I won't have to worry about this for another decade or more.

Car was idling at 2500RPM for the two minutes it was on, started surging after that so I believe it's air in the coolant. Not sure how Toyota coolant is $35+ per gallon, but in the preliminary phase I'll just stick with the Prestone red colored stuff for Asian cars for half the price.

Few other things need addressing are the fuel sending unit needs to be replaced (not working, showing empty all the time), parking cables, etc. Don't think the car needs any more additional mechanical work. The rest are easy stuff I'll slowly get to.

Will update with link when video is up.
 

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Update 20220420

The hoses and everything are back in the car and after a few cranks to run the new fuel into the pump and filter, it started right up like it was driven yesterday. Sounds strong but shut the car off almost immediately since the coolant needs to be addressed and didn't want to wake up more neighbors at 3AM. Turns out the fuel pump was the culprit, as expected, even the new Denso pump is super quiet, so I assume the factory one that came out of the spare tank (that's in the car now) might actually be working. At least with a new pump, strainer, and filter, I won't have to worry about this for another decade or more.

Car was idling at 2500RPM for the two minutes it was on, started surging after that so I believe it's air in the coolant. Not sure how Toyota coolant is $35+ per gallon, but in the preliminary phase I'll just stick with the Prestone red colored stuff for Asian cars for half the price.

Few other things need addressing are the fuel sending unit needs to be replaced (not working, showing empty all the time), parking cables, etc. Don't think the car needs any more additional mechanical work. The rest are easy stuff I'll slowly get to.

Will update with link when video is up.
glad you got it running, good news is you can atleast access the sending unit from the cabin of the car. It might just be gummed up and stuck in the empty position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
glad you got it running, good news is you can atleast access the sending unit from the cabin of the car. It might just be gummed up and stuck in the empty position.
Thanks man, appreciate the advice throughout the past few months.

Didn't know you can just clean up the sending unit. Will clean them up and see what happens. Would the fuel injector cleaner chemical be ok for this application?
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
August update, been out of state for a few months and forgot to update.

Had a mobile mechanic check out some odds and ends. Coolant was bled with the Prestone stuff just to get the car back on the road before returning to the Toyota red stuff. Brake and clutch fluid were near empty so he topped it off.

Bought insurance for the car and car is ready for the road, sort of. Car has idle surging issues and brakes are also spongy. Not sure what is going on and not sure if it'll pass smog. The next step will be to bring it to a Toyota specialist 30 miles away who works on the 4AGEs in his spare time.

Looking forward to it next month when I'm back home, but for now my dad will be starting it and driving it around.
 

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The bouncing idle is commonly caused by air in the coolant. However, the general cause is idle too high for any reason. With the engine fully warmed up, the ECU will execute a fuel cut at about 1500 rpm if the throttle is closed. It is always possible that the idle is set too high, or there is an air leak after the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The bouncing idle is commonly caused by air in the coolant. However, the general cause is idle too high for any reason. With the engine fully warmed up, the ECU will execute a fuel cut at about 1500 rpm if the throttle is closed. It is always possible that the idle is set too high, or there is an air leak after the throttle.
Thanks for the suggestions. The mechanic bled the coolant with those bleeder tools (some pump-like thing?). Even though I told him these cars are funky and the standard procedures in the manual are to be followed, I'd guess he didn't do that since I wasn't around to watch or help. On top of that, the front radiator fans constantly run.

You're spot on with the revs, it jumps between 1100-1400 RPM. The mechanic thought it was the idle screw so he turned that up and the idle was 1400-2000 RPM so I told him to turn it back where it was. I certainly hope it's not some leak, a pain tracing those after trying to trace a P0446 in a friend's 5SFE Camry.

Backstory aside, would the car be ok if I took the car on a 50 mile drive with the high idle? The car isn't stalling nor having temperature issues when up to speed. Thanks.
 

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Try turning the idle screw down. The idle should be about 800. If it is already all the way down, then you are done with that for now. It doesn't matter what the idle is while you are driving. It doesn't matter when it is idling, either, but the bouncing idle is annoying.

Besides air in the coolant, there is the possibility of a bad cold idle valve, or an air leak in the intake. One possibility for an air leak that people don't always think of is the bushings on the TVIS actuator shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Try turning the idle screw down. The idle should be about 800. If it is already all the way down, then you are done with that for now. It doesn't matter what the idle is while you are driving. It doesn't matter when it is idling, either, but the bouncing idle is annoying.

Besides air in the coolant, there is the possibility of a bad cold idle valve, or an air leak in the intake. One possibility for an air leak that people don't always think of is the bushings on the TVIS actuator shaft.
Yeah, the bouncing is not only annoying but it might also fail emissions.

Thanks for the tips, I'll find out where they are in the manual and possibly look at replacing them. Have you seen them still being sold at dealerships or the Toyota parts website?
 

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The parts are no longer available new. You would be looking for used parts, or trying to refurbish the ones that you have.

If it is the TVIS bushings, a mechanic once suggested that a generic carburetor rebuild kit might have suitable replacements. I never tried it, since I found a working TVIS unit at a junkyard. As for the cold idle valve, I doubt that it can be serviced, beyond cleaning it. It can easily be tested by dropping it in boiling water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
The parts are no longer available new. You would be looking for used parts, or trying to refurbish the ones that you have.

If it is the TVIS bushings, a mechanic once suggested that a generic carburetor rebuild kit might have suitable replacements. I never tried it, since I found a working TVIS unit at a junkyard. As for the cold idle valve, I doubt that it can be serviced, beyond cleaning it. It can easily be tested by dropping it in boiling water.
Gotcha. Weird enough I learned that today the car was taken to get smogged, and as expected, the car failed with the bouncing idle (gotta love California). I was going to have them hold off until I get home by next month to double check everything, but it's probably better than me half guessing what could be wrong.

The mechanic suggested the idle air control valve wasn't working properly. The part is quoted to $350 and labor will be $250. I would just need to double check the part because it sounds more like a $35 part than a $350 part, labor is labor. Hopefully that part solves emissions/idle problem and they'll take a look at the parking brake light too.
 
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