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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Gotcha, I will first sort out what others have suggested above.
Hi, just going to repeat what I have responded to another member earlier to see who replies first so I can get started on the work:

Just some follow up questions after discovering my fuel pump is shot:
  1. Shall the local autoparts stores not have the fuel pump in stock, are there any good aftermarket ones that will last a good while (brand, pressure, etc.)?
  2. While I'm down there, I would like to replace the parking brake cable. If you have replaced the cable before, do you know if local auto parts stores carry them? If not, do you know which other Toyotas use the same cable?
Thank you very much. Just trying to gather some information, get the right parts, and borrow the right tools before I begin.
 

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While I'm down there, I would like to replace the parking brake cable. If you have replaced the cable before, do you know if local auto parts stores carry them? If not, do you know which other Toyotas use the same cable?
I ordered and installed these parking brake cables in my 1987 Toyota MR2 and they fit well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I ordered and installed these parking brake cables in my 1987 Toyota MR2 and they fit well.
Perfect, thanks. Looks like this place still carries a lot of parts for our cars. Do you know any discount codes that'll save me a few bucks/shipping?
 

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Hi, just going to repeat what I have responded to another member earlier to see who replies first so I can get started on the work:

Just some follow up questions after discovering my fuel pump is shot:
  1. Shall the local autoparts stores not have the fuel pump in stock, are there any good aftermarket ones that will last a good while (brand, pressure, etc.)?
  2. While I'm down there, I would like to replace the parking brake cable. If you have replaced the cable before, do you know if local auto parts stores carry them? If not, do you know which other Toyotas use the same cable?
Thank you very much. Just trying to gather some information, get the right parts, and borrow the right tools before I begin.
I would get the Delphi pump but they normally have the Denso pump. Both are good options
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
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Hi all,


Original post
Update 20220123 for my own sake:

Tried to remove the tank. Did the following so far:
  1. Remove center console
  2. Drain gas (a little yellow)
  3. Remove underbody panels
  4. Undid brace bolts
  5. Tried to find all fuel lines (unsuccessful)
The only obvious fuel line one is the big one from the filler neck, but can't really tell which other lines are which from the rest of the mess under the car.

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Does any one have any pictures and pointers for which lines to remove? There are minimal helpful resources online, the only detailed post had photos that wouldn't display.
  1. Which lines need to be removed (only one is labeled "fuel"?
  2. There are lines behind a plastic cover that runs down from the center of the rear windshield to the coolant lines(?)
  3. How to remove these kinds of hoses after taking the clamps off? They wouldn't budge.
Thanks.
 

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There are a total 7 lines that need to be removed,
  • Filler neck and breather, just loosen the filler neck hose, when dropping the tank it will pull off, you will just need to guide it. You can remove the breather, it is right above the filler.
  • 3 hardlines coming from pump, one of them is the main line that you were talking about, remove it at the fuel filter, a lot easier than taking it off at the hard Line. Then remove the other 2 rubber lines from the hard lines that go to the pump, mark at least one of them with a marker so you reinstall them right.
  • last 2 lines are evap hoses, PITA to reinstall as there is zero room, but by taking them off just un clip them,

Only line that wont come off unless you start dropping the tank is the filler neck hose. The tubs that runs up the middle fire wall is a fuel evaporator thing ment to recycle vaporized fuel in a way.

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the 2 lines shown in the second pick are evap lines, honestly the hardest ones to get off because of the lack of room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
There are a total 7 lines that need to be removed,
  • Filler neck and breather, just loosen the filler neck hose, when dropping the tank it will pull off, you will just need to guide it. You can remove the breather, it is right above the filler.
  • 3 hardlines coming from pump, one of them is the main line that you were talking about, remove it at the fuel filter, a lot easier than taking it off at the hard Line. Then remove the other 2 rubber lines from the hard lines that go to the pump, mark at least one of them with a marker so you reinstall them right.
  • last 2 lines are evap hoses, PITA to reinstall as there is zero room, but by taking them off just un clip them,
Only line that wont come off unless you start dropping the tank is the filler neck hose. The tubs that runs up the middle fire wall is a fuel evaporator thing ment to recycle vaporized fuel in a way.

the 2 lines shown in the second pick are evap lines, honestly the hardest ones to get off because of the lack of room.
Thanks for the quick and awesome response. Your annotations help wonders. Turns out I was looking at it the whole time, with the cover being in the way.

A few clarifications:
  1. The breather is the hose that looks braided right?
  2. I don't know if the fuel filter is installed upside-down, but the 17mm bolt seems super tight and is facing the ground. Do I remove the line on top or on the bottom?
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Take a look at the diagram I've drawn on from the BGB. I must be missing something because I count 6 lines.

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Thank you very much again.
 

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There are 3 lines coming off the pump, they are all in the 1st pic. I only say to remove the main line at the filter because you can risk bending the hardline trying to unscrew the rubber line. Yea the 17mm bolt is always on there pretty good but the filter is on the right way. you can just remove the bottom bolt, If you plan on keeping the filter make sure you save the brass colored washers that are on the banjo bolt (the 17mm one) . Some penetrating fluid would help. But if you want you can just remove it at the hardline, just be careful.

And yes breather is the braided hose.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
There are 3 lines coming off the pump, they are all in the 1st pic. I only say to remove the main line at the filter because you can risk bending the hardline trying to unscrew the rubber line. Yea the 17mm bolt is always on there pretty good but the filter is on the right way. you can just remove the bottom bolt, If you plan on keeping the filter make sure you save the brass colored washers that are on the banjo bolt (the 17mm one) . Some penetrating fluid would help. But if you want you can just remove it at the hardline, just be careful.

And yes breather is the braided hose.
Perfect, thanks a lot. I'll get back on it this weekend and hopefully the tank can come down. Hopefully the reverse steps will be easier. I'll need to first see how to remove the plastic cover that runs down the firewall and tangled between a bunch of lines to give me more working room and visibility.
 

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One is the pressure feed, and another is the return. So, what does the 3rd hose do?
Not entirely sure, ill have to chase it and figure out where it goes. It seems as 87 and later had 3 lines, as the PBase album only shows 2. 1 line ends at the top of the pump housing, 1 for the pump, and one as a return at the bottom of the housing. cant find much about it in the BRB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Update for those still following:

Finally found more time to work on it after a few weeks.

Spent a good four hours just removing a few hose clamps. Very envious of those who say it just took them a few hours to do the whole job. Just jack stands seem to be very disadvantageous for someone my size crawling under there and finding things. Had to try sitting up and lodging my head next to the charcoal canister while shoving a plier through the forest of lines. Borrowed a 17mm socket from a friend and made the mistake of untightening the fuel filter bolt too early, didn't expect so much fuel to still be in the line and filter. Bolt was the tightest I've ever loosened. Got a headache from breathing in so much fuel vapor and stopped for the day.

Only worry is I'm more or less in a rush to finish this and at least get the car started since I have to leave the state for another job so the car will stay at home. I'm looking around and contacting many shops in my area, even Toyota specialists, but they don't want to work on this car. Not sure if there can be other issues causing the crank, no start, but the fuel filter needs to be done anyway given there was no response jumping the two OBD terminals. Did I jump the wrong the terminals (paper clip got a bit warm and saw spark)? Tried a few things some recommended around the forums but they all seem to be fine. If you're in the the South Bay Area, California, please recommend some shops.

Anyway, attached are some pictures of the hose clamps I've loosened so far. I think the only left are the two evap lines that run up the engine bay. Keep losing track of them and couldn't reach in there to unclamp the two hoses. I tried prying off some hoses I've already unclamped, but wouldn't budge. Any one have suggestions on how to remove the plastic evap line cover? Gets in the way and can't massage it out. I somehow wedged my phone up in the bay and took a picture showing all seven lines (see above) up in this page but I couldn't find them again.
 

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Not sure if there can be other issues causing the crank, no start,
You need air fuel and spark, you are missing one or more of those. The pump is pretty loud so when you jump the diag box and put the key in the on position you should hear the pump run, throw a multimeter on the plug to make sure you are getting voltage while you are at it.

The only fuel line that doesnt come off until you drop the tank is the main filler neck line, the biggest line, just loosn the clamp and as you lower the tank you can pry it off.

I’m not sure how to remove the cover you are describing, as I dont have one. Most likely a couple of 10mm bolts or it might be clipped it.

The lines are a bitch but its the hardest part of the whole job, as for the pump you can get the denso pump on rock auto

one more thing, make sure you drain all the gas out before you drop the tank, there is a bolt that you can fit a 3/8 box end wrench in And drain the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
You need air fuel and spark, you are missing one or more of those. The pump is pretty loud so when you jump the diag box and put the key in the on position you should hear the pump run, throw a multimeter on the plug to make sure you are getting voltage while you are at it.

The only fuel line that doesnt come off until you drop the tank is the main filler neck line, the biggest line, just loosn the clamp and as you lower the tank you can pry it off.

I’m not sure how to remove the cover you are describing, as I dont have one. Most likely a couple of 10mm bolts or it might be clipped it.

The lines are a bitch but its the hardest part of the whole job, as for the pump you can get the denso pump on rock auto

one more thing, make sure you drain all the gas out before you drop the tank, there is a bolt that you can fit a 3/8 box end wrench in And drain the tank.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll answer in bullet points.

1. Yeah, when I jumped the terminals, I don't hear anything at all, which is why I assume to be the pump. I checked the spark plugs and all have spark (new plugs). I will use a multimeter and assume normal is 12V. What would no voltage mean?
2. The plastic piece covers the evap lines running up the engine bay to the engine lid in the middle of the bay on the insulation. I'll take a picture when I get the chance. It was either 10 or 12mm nuts on the bottom (2) and one in the center of the piece.
3. The rubber lines are stuck on the metal lines pretty good. Tried wiggling it out with little force but no luck yet. Will try again next time with a greater force.
4. Yup, all the gas is drained, a good 5 gallons of it (used an oil change catch pan and the gas cleaned it well). No chunks came out, so I assume nothing is seriously corroded over the years. Gas was clear yellow as it should.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I'll answer in bullet points.

1. Yeah, when I jumped the terminals, I don't hear anything at all, which is why I assume to be the pump. I checked the spark plugs and all have spark (new plugs). I will use a multimeter and assume normal is 12V. What would no voltage mean?
2. The plastic piece covers the evap lines running up the engine bay to the engine lid in the middle of the bay on the insulation. I'll take a picture when I get the chance. It was either 10 or 12mm nuts on the bottom (2) and one in the center of the piece.
3. The rubber lines are stuck on the metal lines pretty good. Tried wiggling it out with little force but no luck yet. Will try again next time with a greater force.
4. Yup, all the gas is drained, a good 5 gallons of it (used an oil change catch pan and the gas cleaned it well). No chunks came out, so I assume nothing is seriously corroded over the years. Gas was clear yellow as it should.
Ok well that’s good your gas looks good, my tank was corroded really bad and took a week to get clean. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to get a really long pair of needle nose pliers, that’s what I used to get the clips off and to wiggle the lines off.

the voltage would tell you if you are actually getting power to the pump.Just stick a multimeter on the blue wire near the shifter with the diag box jumped and key in the on pos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ok well that’s good your gas looks good, my tank was corroded really bad and took a week to get clean. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to get a really long pair of needle nose pliers, that’s what I used to get the clips off and to wiggle the lines off.

the voltage would tell you if you are actually getting power to the pump.Just stick a multimeter on the blue wire near the shifter with the diag box jumped and key in the on pos.
Wow, what was in your tank?

A couple of years ago, I bought another tank taken off of an '87 or something just in case the current tank is completely bad for like twenty bucks or something so I could sleep better at night. The guy who sold it to me got fed up and cut the rubber lines so I couldn't get some knowledge transfer from him. He also had the engine out and sold at the time so it was much easier on his end.

I have needle nose pliers but the sharp tip is a problem because I can't get to both tabs on the clamp at the same time. I still managed to get what I can for now, just fearing having to put it back later. The hoses are in surprisingly great shape for its age so I might be comfortable giving them a harder yank. Again, it's a whole new learning process since all I have really done related to cars was changing the oil and simple things like that. Probably could tell by some dumb questions I've asked here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
You need air fuel and spark, you are missing one or more of those. The pump is pretty loud so when you jump the diag box and put the key in the on position you should hear the pump run, throw a multimeter on the plug to make sure you are getting voltage while you are at it.

The only fuel line that doesnt come off until you drop the tank is the main filler neck line, the biggest line, just loosn the clamp and as you lower the tank you can pry it off.

I’m not sure how to remove the cover you are describing, as I dont have one. Most likely a couple of 10mm bolts or it might be clipped it.

The lines are a bitch but its the hardest part of the whole job, as for the pump you can get the denso pump on rock auto

one more thing, make sure you drain all the gas out before you drop the tank, there is a bolt that you can fit a 3/8 box end wrench in And drain the tank.
Forgot to take a picture last night but this is the cover I was talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
This sounds like a seized pump. This will overload the circuit, even though there is no pump action. It is usually not enough of an overload to blow the fuse.
Gotcha, thanks for the pointer. I needed some reassurance that I'm not taking up a hard job for nothing, haha. Hopefully this is all the car needs to start and limp to the shop.

The fuses look fine (no burnt marks, corrosion, or damage), though I still need to get a multimeter and test things out.
 
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