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Ooooo, if the keeper was missing you will need to check to see if the valve dropped far enough to contact the piston. Pull the spark plug and shine a flashlight down there with the piston at bottom dead center, you should be able to see most of the top. You'll see some obvious shiny spot if you had contact.
 

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Boofer,
Where is the missing keeper? There's two keepers per valve. Did one of them slip off? But it doesn't matter because at this point, I think there no option but to pull the cylinder head. To put the keeper on, you need a spring compressor and I can't see how it can be done with the head on the block. (Installing valves can be very dangerous if the spring gets away from you. You can lose an eye, so be careful.)

I know what you mean when you say fixing the MR2 is a labor of love. Best of luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Both keepers came off. It looked perfectly normal till I pulled on it. I checked all the remaining valves. I am going to try to ascertain if the valve is broken or bent and if there was any damage before I remove the head. Tom, I have a nice little tool for doing valves which makes it so much easier. But yeah, I don't think I'll do it on the engine. I can just see the keepers flying off and going who knows where, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I got all of the intake stuff removed. I'll remove the exhaust tomorrow. Then, I'll take off the head and go from there.

I really do appreciate all of you guys hanging with me during this situation. The only good thing is, everything comes off much easier, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
I got the head off. It is a pain, but easier since I had just put it on, lol.

After scraping of the head gasket on the head I checked it for warping. It is perfect. I couldn't check the measurements for the intake and exhaust side because I found the BGB confusing. But, I checked them as I did the head and they were perfect. The one exhaust valve is just fine. All of the valves are seating well, but I am going to reinstall the cams and take a look. It appears that I was getting some ignition in all of the cylinders due to the black carbon deposits. Everything was perfectly clean during the rebuild.

71832


71833


The number 3 cylinder is where the loose valve was. I cannot detect any damage.

What I would really like to do is buy some 2.5mm shims (the thinnest) to get an accurate adjustment. I only need 8 to do each side at once. Then, I can get what I need. I hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I found my problem. Upon inspection of my head I just happened to notice that the keepers on my valves were "on," but not correct. I have been using a ValveMaster tool, and it has always worked great. But, I f'ed up and "assumed" the keepers were properly installed. Only problem now is, I have tried over and over using the tool to get the keepers in the correct position. I can't get a single one. I'm using a solid peace of wood and a shop tool to keep the valve in place. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Use a valve spring compressor:
link

When you get it back together, make sure that the valves aren't bent/leaking before you put it back together. If the valves weren't seated properly they could have hit the pistons. With the cams out, turn the head upside down and pour some liquid in the combustion area.
youtube

I don't know if I'd use water for that test though. I'd probably go outside and use gasoline. Your choice.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I have a ValveMaster tool from Toyo tools for removing and installing valves. It has always worked flawlessly, until now. Frustrated, and not wanting to buy another tool, I went on the internet. I was able to get all of my valves installed CORRECTLY with a simple 2 minute video and a piece of duct tape! I used the removal end of my tool and a folded piece of duct tape.


Mike, I appreciate the leak testing procedure. I have never seen this before, but it is a simple and effective procedure. I am going to do it.

All of the valves are good (not bent), and the inside of the motor looks like there was no damage due to my valves sitting low due to improper installation.

I am going to adjust the valve clearances while the head is off. I just wish that I had not of mixed up my shims when I thought my problem was a simple valve adjustment. But, I am going to do it per the BGB.

I still have a lot to do. But, I could not have gotten this far without your guys help. I have made some mistakes which I am not too happy about. I have been fortunate that I haven't really screwed anything up. I am a perfectionist, but life has been challenging.

Thank you very much!
 

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Discussion Starter #69
So, my question now is; how do I adjust valve clearances from scratch? In other words, with no shims installed, how do I calculate the proper shim size?
 

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The procedure is in the BGB. What I remember is that you install the shims, measure the valve clearance with feeler gauges, then remove the shims and measure them with a micrometer. Then you add to this the difference that you need to correct and get new shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
rmeller, the procedure is in the BGB with the formula for determining proper shim thickness. The only problem I have now is, I removed all of the shims. o_O I measured all of them and labeled them according to size. Is there a way to determine the proper shim size without shims currently installed? Yeah, I know I messed up. I am tempted to buy at least 8 2.5mm shims and install them just to determine the proper shim size.

Mike, my leak test was good. That is a trick that I am going to keep in my back pocket. Great procedure and so simple.
 

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Install the shims you have. If one doesn't fit, then swap them around until you get them to fit. You have to have the shims in place in order to measure clearance, and you have to have clearance in order to measure it. It doesn't matter what shims are where because you are going to mic them for each valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I ended up using 8 of the thinnest shims I have. Did one side at a time (exhaust, then intake) using the same shims. I have determined what I have, and what I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I only got two of the shims I needed from my other motor. I need 3 #24's and 3 #26's. Where is a good place to get them?
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I redid my calculations based on minimum clearances. The BGB uses a half way meausement (.20mm intake, and .25mm exhaust) [ page EM7]. I adjusted my calculations to .25mm for the intake and .30mm for the exhaust. This is a better number since the valves will tend to decrease over time. Gist is, I have the proper shims. I also did not round off numbers this time until the last measurement.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Okay. Got the head back on. I bought another gasket kit, argh. Took me forever to get the cams lined up. They were always one tooth off and the belt was tight. But, I did not stop until I had all the marks lined up perfectly, and rotated the crankshaft many times to double-check the timing. Valve clearance is right on, and the keepers are on correctly, lol.

All I have left to do is connect all of the induction and fuel stuff, exhaust manifold, and connect the wiring.

I am charging the battery (one more time, I hope). Hopefully be running in the next day or two. Say your prayers.
 
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