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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Solved: So, I rebuilt the motor and it would crank, but not start. I went through all of the steps in the BGB and advice from this post, but nothing. But, I made assumptions and advice is ontly as good as the information I provide. Feel free to browse this long post, but it turned out that I did not get my valves installed correctly. The keepers latched on, but in the wrong place. So, the valves were never fully closed. I use a Toyo tool for this procedure. It had never failed me before. Adding a piece of folded over duct tape to the removal end of the tool made it work like a charm.

I would like to express my thanks to all of the people who helped me out. This has turned into a much longer project than I had hoped. But, she's running smooth and everything looks good!


I have a 1985 MR2 that I have owned for 35 years. I am the only owner and it is stock. So, she is my baby, lol. I recently had a blown head gasket. So, having rebuilt two of these motors in the past, I decided to do the work myself. I replaced all of the seals and gaskets along the way. I also replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter (thanks to the stimulus money). I have also replaced the starter, fuel injectors, spark plugs and cables thermostat, water temp sensor, and the distributor cap and rotor. The timing belt I replaced two years ago and it is in perfect condition. Battery is good. I cleaned everything along the way including all of the grounds (I used a tap and die plus sandpaper). The rebuild took longer since I could only work on it after work at night. Regardless, it went well with only one exception. I had to replace the injector connectors since the old ones were cracked. I cut some out of an old harness and spliced them in as far back into the wiring as I could. It was a real pain. I have 12 volts to the correct terminal of each connector, and continuity on each negative side back to the ECU. I adjusted the TPS and it is spot on. No blown fuses the all relays check good per the BGB.

Right now, the engine will crank, but no hint of start. I don't have a fuel pressure checker, but the fuel pump is running and fuel comes out of the rail if I loosen a connection. The spark plugs are damp. I removed each plug and got good spark from all of them. I have tried reattaching the distributor numerous times. I finally removed the exhaust cam, got the motor to TDC, aligned the dimples, and slowly put in the distributor giving myself plenty of room either side to adjust the timing. The ECU is not putting out any error codes. I have performed just about every test in the BGB except those that require the engine to be running. I have checked and double-checked all of my wiring connectors and grounds.

I am kind of at a loss of where my problem is and need help. I have a post on (the nearly extinct) MR2.com forum. Crank, but No Start

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have checked bot the EFI Main and the Injector relays per the BGB. They check good. I don't have one of these "Noid" lights. I don't want to buy one since I am not sure they will fit the connectors. Otherwise, it appears one would give me a definite good or bad if the injector impulse is coming from the ECU (ECU is grounding the injectors). I have used a sound scope to hear each of them clicking.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I should have mentioned that I made sure the cams are aligned correctly; the dimples on each cam pulley are spot on with the plate at TDP and, the intake nib is at 12 o'clock and the exhaust nib is at the 5 o'clock.

I painstakingly mapped out that my vacuum hoses are routed correctly. There is only one drawing in the BGB that has all of them on page EC-3.

Gist is, everything checks out perfect, but she isn't running.
 

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Well, what's left? Did you do a compression test? That might tell you if the mechanical timing was wrong. The secondary wires could be scrambled up, or the distributor could be significantly out of time. Make sure that #1 is at TDC on compression, not exhaust, and verify that the rotor is also at #1. That's all that I can think of now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I do not have a compression checker. I aligned the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pin. I then checked that the cam pulleys were aligned correctly; the matchmarks are spot on with the alignment marks on the plate, and the knock pins are in the correct position (12 o'clock for the intake, and 5 o'clock for the exhaust). When I put the distributor in (this last time with the exhaust cover off) I made sure that the engine was at TDC and the "cavity" lined up with the "drilled mark," and the rotor was on the number one position.

I looked inside my distributor and it looks good. There are no broken or chafed wires; it looks brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Potatoesse, please do not hijack my post. If you are trying to recommend it might be my igniter, I have checked it out per the BGB and it is good.
 

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Potatoesse, please do not hijack my post. If you are trying to recommend it might be my igniter, I have checked it out per the BGB and it is good.
Was just trying to make a suggestion and have a discussion because Im having similar problem with my car (and others might be too). But I'll delete my message since youre being an ass about it.
 

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... If you are trying to recommend it might be my igniter, I have checked it out per the BGB and it is good.
But, you have already checked everything out. You told us so.

The fact is, either you have a bad component or you screwed something up in the assembly. Once you have exhausted plan A, you need to go to plan B:
Most of the tests in the BGB are not dispositive. They are merely the best that can be done with common resources.
Some components cannot be conclusively tested except by substitution with new.
Intermittent components or bad connections cannot be conclusively diagnosed on the bench.
Sometimes the fault is shared among several components that all perform in ideal circumstances but are incompatible together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I apologize potatoesse. But, your reply was kind of out of the dark and you said nothing about my problem. Regardless, I am sorry and I did not mean any disrespect.

I am just trying to get my car running again. Trust me, at this point I am starting to wonder if I screwed something up. Right now, I am just trying to eliminate things. I got a "noid" light and a fuel pressure checker on loan from Autozone. One of my nagging situations is that I did not do a good job of rewiring my injector connectors. I simply used butt connectors, but I may need to solder them.

As Spock used to say, "Once you eliminate to possible, you have to consider the impossible." Right now, I am just trying to eliminate the possible. Lord knows, I do not want to have to take this motor out again.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have tried using another igniter which checks good, and no luck. I've tried realigning the distributor. Now, I keep getting a code 3 on the ECL.This is happening with either igniter.
 

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A code is important. I don't remember what 3 is, and I won't get to look at my book until I get back to my office.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I replaced the igniter with the one I had on it. No codes. I had to replace the igniter or coil a few years back, and I couldn't remember which. I am constantly getting no codes now. I went back to my old spark plug wires. No change.

I am all out of options. I even emailed Toyota directly; no reply yet. I love this car, but it is causing me grief beyond belief. I not only love this car, but I need it since my son starts a new job soon and we have to have two vehicles.

I need help. I really do not want to have it towed to the dealership. I only wish that there were someone close who could help me out.
 

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"No signal from igniter four times in succession"
The pickup coils in the distributor provide the triggers to the ignitor. The ignitor is grounded through its mounting bolts, so if it is not bolted down right, it will fail. That is a common error. Then check all of the connectors and wiring between the pickup coils, the ignitor, and the ECU. Separate all of the connectors, check for dirt, corrosion, heat damage, and then brighten the connections, make sure that they have enough spring tension and rejoin. Inspect the length of the wires for damage. Also consider the possibility that you have two defective ignitors.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did some internet research on ignition systems. The ignition (start switch) sends 12v to the coil. The coil is comprised of an inner and outer wiring. The 12 volts energizes the outer wiring which creates a magnetic field. The igniter stops this voltage which creates a higher voltage needed for ignition through the inner coil, and it is sent to the distributor for distribution to the spark plugs.

I am considering the possibility that I have two bad igniters. This is not good. Finding another one seems near impossible. I have read posts of others trying to use Celica igniters, but a resistor in the igniter is not compatible with the tachometer.

I have checked the grounds and cleaned them several times.

I know that the procedures in the BGB are not absolute. I have found discrepancies. But, this is what the mechanics at Toyota had to go by. Granted, before they started discontinuing parts, they would simply replace them as opposed to repairing them.
 
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