Yea he has some updates on his IG page with his DSG. But I will look into getting a kit soon.
Continuation of my fixer-upper: 91 "Turbo"
If you'd like to take a look at the lead up to all this, you can check out my intro thread. I covered most of it's flaws and mods, but don't worry! There's more issues to uncover!
It's been a little over a year since I got it. I've spent that time mostly accumulating parts and deciding what work to prioritize. I couldn't really work on it much due to other projects and work getting in the way. I've only gotten it back into the garage in the last 2 months. I want to actually do some driving this summer (I drove it for like 2 hours total last year...), so I won't be fixing everything up to how I want it right away, but all of the important things will be addressed.
With all that said, let's get started... By looking under the front.
![Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Gas Bumper]()
Uh oh. That wasn't there when I got under it last year. Apparently it had an VERY slow leak when I took ownership. I knew I should have got that Yonaka rad during the Black Friday sale. I only got suspicious when I noticed a bit of a dried puddle on the concrete of the storage unit.
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During draining we see our other problem: Wrong coolant. This I already had suspected based on the quality of the work done by previous owners. Fortunately, I was always going to drop the coolant for other modifications and for piece of mind.
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![Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire]()
Just before I dropped the fans and then the rad. Do you like their horn wiring? Let's fast forward to when I got the Yonaka radiator and fans, which by the way, are backordered until September for anyone else in need of them. I literally got the last one, and they only found it after a physical check of their stock. Lucky me. You can maybe still get them from PrimeMR2, but it looks like they bought up their stock and then added a $50 markup... Not too keen on that practice.
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Here is a 12 inch SPAL fan next to the generic fan that comes with. I fortunately already had the SPALs for another project. One of the generics came damaged so that option was out even if I wanted to bother with them.
![Automotive tire Alloy wheel Motor vehicle Asphalt Automotive lighting]()
Both SPALs on and it's ready for mounting. Of course, the downside to the SPALs is that they require their own relay setup to handle the amp load. I'm working on that at the moment, so they will remain off for now. Let's look at what else I've been up to.
It's been a little over a year since I got it. I've spent that time mostly accumulating parts and deciding what work to prioritize. I couldn't really work on it much due to other projects and work getting in the way. I've only gotten it back into the garage in the last 2 months. I want to actually do some driving this summer (I drove it for like 2 hours total last year...), so I won't be fixing everything up to how I want it right away, but all of the important things will be addressed.
With all that said, let's get started... By looking under the front.
Uh oh. That wasn't there when I got under it last year. Apparently it had an VERY slow leak when I took ownership. I knew I should have got that Yonaka rad during the Black Friday sale. I only got suspicious when I noticed a bit of a dried puddle on the concrete of the storage unit.
During draining we see our other problem: Wrong coolant. This I already had suspected based on the quality of the work done by previous owners. Fortunately, I was always going to drop the coolant for other modifications and for piece of mind.
Just before I dropped the fans and then the rad. Do you like their horn wiring? Let's fast forward to when I got the Yonaka radiator and fans, which by the way, are backordered until September for anyone else in need of them. I literally got the last one, and they only found it after a physical check of their stock. Lucky me. You can maybe still get them from PrimeMR2, but it looks like they bought up their stock and then added a $50 markup... Not too keen on that practice.
Here is a 12 inch SPAL fan next to the generic fan that comes with. I fortunately already had the SPALs for another project. One of the generics came damaged so that option was out even if I wanted to bother with them.
Both SPALs on and it's ready for mounting. Of course, the downside to the SPALs is that they require their own relay setup to handle the amp load. I'm working on that at the moment, so they will remain off for now. Let's look at what else I've been up to.
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
Did some interior work when I didn't feel like getting too dirty. Below is the new RacerX performance shifter and mounting plate. I thought the install of both was very manageable. Instructions were helpful. The only issue I had was getting the cables to seat into their slots on the plate. For whatever reason, mine did not want to fully insert so I could clip them down. There was much prying, pulling, and swearing but they finally decided to go in. Not sure if this is a common issue or not.
![Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Car Automotive tire]()
![Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior]()
![Rectangle Gas Wood Machine Machine tool]()
![Bumper Gas Electronic instrument Audio equipment Wood]()
I have not driven it, but rowing through the gears I think it's pretty good. It's much better that the OEM setup that was in there. You don't have any control over the 3-4 shift length, but you can set the 1-2 and 5, reverse throw length with the two small screws at the bottom in the last pic. I understand why many are picking up that modified Hybrid Racing shifter from Hux Racing, as the K-series definitely has a better feel. However, I didn't want that thing sticking out of the console. Maybe if this was a track-rat.
![Silver Audio equipment Automotive design Font Automotive exterior]()
![White Hood Black Automotive tire Automotive lighting]()
Also got a MR2Heaven shifter surround. If you buy the RacerX shifter, make sure you get the surround for the B&M, Fidanza, Ebay style shifters. I accidently picked the option for their shifter (that's what I was looking at when I selected it) so now I have to buy another...
You'll notice in that last pic that the holes for the boot and plate don't exactly line up. Apparently the person in charge of that was wearing a blindfold that day. I made it work, but had to make new holes. Otherwise, the plate fit fine in the console and the quality of material was pretty good.
I have not driven it, but rowing through the gears I think it's pretty good. It's much better that the OEM setup that was in there. You don't have any control over the 3-4 shift length, but you can set the 1-2 and 5, reverse throw length with the two small screws at the bottom in the last pic. I understand why many are picking up that modified Hybrid Racing shifter from Hux Racing, as the K-series definitely has a better feel. However, I didn't want that thing sticking out of the console. Maybe if this was a track-rat.
Also got a MR2Heaven shifter surround. If you buy the RacerX shifter, make sure you get the surround for the B&M, Fidanza, Ebay style shifters. I accidently picked the option for their shifter (that's what I was looking at when I selected it) so now I have to buy another...
You'll notice in that last pic that the holes for the boot and plate don't exactly line up. Apparently the person in charge of that was wearing a blindfold that day. I made it work, but had to make new holes. Otherwise, the plate fit fine in the console and the quality of material was pretty good.
Got the Engineer Freely kit all installed the other day.
![Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting]()
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Locking hubs]()
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Locking hubs]()
Overall I'm happy with it. Everything they supplied fit without issue and I think the quality is nice. Some notes for others who are considering something like this or have this kit:
Once I have a few items buttoned up, I'll look at ride height and figure out what wheel spacer size I'm going with.
Overall I'm happy with it. Everything they supplied fit without issue and I think the quality is nice. Some notes for others who are considering something like this or have this kit:
- If you went the cheapo route like I did on extended studs (Dorman 610-463) you will need to drill out the holes on the RX-8 brakes at the front. The rear RAV4 rotors work just fine over them. A step drill is your friend here and you don't have to go too crazy.
- This is mentioned in the instructions, but you may or may not need the spacers provided to seat the brake lines into their brackets in certain spots. It'll just depend on your individual setup.
- If you've never done this before, keep one thing in mind if it's a system that's currently filled: The longer you take getting the lines transferred, the more brake fluid you'll have to clean off tools, parts, etc. Make sure you have things assembled ahead of time as much as you can before cracking that hardline connection.
- A helpful tip with these particular brake lines: The fronts should have the 90 degree connection angled down, parallel with the length of the caliper. The rears should have them angled up, towards the strut connection bracket.
Once I have a few items buttoned up, I'll look at ride height and figure out what wheel spacer size I'm going with.
Meant to talk about these in an earlier post and forgot. The windshield cowl was really battered by the sun and had become very brittle. I debated a used one, but decided to just bite the bullet on a brand-new one. Hopefully I'll never need to buy another...
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I also went ahead and upgraded to the later-model wiper arms from MR2Heaven. These I actually have good things to say about. The quality is very close to an OEM arm and if they hold up long term I will be impressed. I replaced the wiper arm bolt covers as well, which you can still get new from Toyota surprisingly.
I also upgraded the headlights. Went with the Philips 5x7 LED housings and of course got the appropriate harness. It's just the generic one you can find easily on Amazon, but it's quality is certainly good enough. I did pre-emptively change the relays for better quality ones. The cheapos hardly ever last. Their mounting angle was chosen for two reasons: 1) It helps with the angle of the wiring. 2) There were already holes there. I remember in Prime's promo video for this car it looked like it had HIDs or LEDs... This would lend credence to my theory that they were indeed on there with a relay harness and removed for whatever reason.
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Kind of nice for those bolts to already be there for mounting the wiring across the frunk. I've got plans for some of the others to act as grounds for the headlights and radiator fan wiring, but that isn't done yet. Still figuring out routing of some of the wires.
I also went ahead and upgraded to the later-model wiper arms from MR2Heaven. These I actually have good things to say about. The quality is very close to an OEM arm and if they hold up long term I will be impressed. I replaced the wiper arm bolt covers as well, which you can still get new from Toyota surprisingly.
I also upgraded the headlights. Went with the Philips 5x7 LED housings and of course got the appropriate harness. It's just the generic one you can find easily on Amazon, but it's quality is certainly good enough. I did pre-emptively change the relays for better quality ones. The cheapos hardly ever last. Their mounting angle was chosen for two reasons: 1) It helps with the angle of the wiring. 2) There were already holes there. I remember in Prime's promo video for this car it looked like it had HIDs or LEDs... This would lend credence to my theory that they were indeed on there with a relay harness and removed for whatever reason.
Kind of nice for those bolts to already be there for mounting the wiring across the frunk. I've got plans for some of the others to act as grounds for the headlights and radiator fan wiring, but that isn't done yet. Still figuring out routing of some of the wires.
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
