On my mk2 I've changed the clutch pedal pin and plastic bushing about twice now since over time the little plastic bushing will wear away and the pin will actually wear a slot into the pedal. So my solution was to get a sealed ball bearing in its place. I got a 5/16" I.D x 1/2" O.D x 5/32 thickness bearing from a hobby store for $5 and a 1/2 inch drill bit. After removing the pedal assembly the pin was worn in and the hole on the pedal was slotted. Now its buttery smooth!! Heres pics hope it answers most of your questions. If you need a new pin, you can order a new one or go to a junkyard.
Another little mod I did was on the clutch clevis. As most of us know the clevis can twist since its not solid inside eventally breaking. My solution was to take apart the clutch clevis and weld in place an equal lenthed pipe, therefore making it solid. I went through a junkyard to get another clutch clevis from other toyotas since they are the same. The reason why I broke so many is because of my stiff aftermarket 6 puck clutch.Well this solved my probem for good. :thumbup
As TURBRO mentioned, a skateboard bearing probably would not be a good idea. it is big and would mean drilling out a bigger hole meaning that there would be less metal left meaning the pedal would be weaker.
I think the sealed bearing is used for RC cars but I'm not 100% sure on that. I just called up a shop and asked them if they had the specific sealing bearing size.
a needle bearing would work great too. 5/16 ID and 1/2 OD needle bearing can be found at a local autoparts store for $4.00 - Timken B-55 needle bearing. TIMKEN/TORRINGTON B-55 Bearing
ya skateboard bearings have a 22mm OD which is too big for our pedal.
I hit another bump. I don't think the 5/16" ID of the sealed bearing is correct. I decided to test the pin through the bearing before I went further. It would not fit. Anyone else run into this problem?
Still a great mod, though. Perhaps the dimensions listed are just off?
Before you go to Lowe's, try using some sandpaper if you have some laying around and save yourself a trip. That is what I did. The pin seems to be thickest around the hole, but I pretty much had to sand the entire thing down just a tad.
a needle bearing would work great too. 5/16 ID and 1/2 OD needle bearing can be found at a local autoparts store for $4.00 - Timken B-55 needle bearing.
ya skateboard bearings have a 22mm OD which is too big for our pedal.
are skateboard bearings the same size as rollerblade bearings? bc if so, you can use them on the transmission side as shifter bushings. probably the easiest mod i can think of that cost little to nothing if you have older bearings around.
i don't know if SB bearings and RB bearings are the same size but I believe the latter will work for the tranny side shifter bushings. I bought a "kit" from a local owner that consists of what appears to be rollerblade bearings and some washers. I never tried them but others did. I ended up getting speed source bushings just b/c I could.
I think this thread might solve my shifting problem... combined with a leaking clutch cylider that may have been caused by a buckling clevis under stiff clutch pedal.
Great! I ordered the ebay bearings (3 of them) also. Just search for this title:
so basically, you drill out the old weak bearing and put it the new 5/16 x 1/2 x 5/32" Teflon Sealed Bearing and then put everything back together? Just making sure I understand this right, probably a dumb question =/
^ essentially yes.... although, technically, there was no bearing there before... just a bushing and pin...
yet some might argue that the ball bearings won't last as long and it won't spin your pedal any faster, and that its just a gimmick by vendors to sell high priced bearings... :angel:
seriously kidding.
There are a few additional tricks that some have added, like washers to keep the bearing in place, and welding the clevis (a great idea imho).
as posted above another solution instead of a bearing is using a needle bearing by Timken B-55 is the exact part number I used. Its wider too, so I didn't even use any washers to keep it from moving around. Ya I its great to have a solid clevis, feels great try it sometime :thumbup
I think this thread might solve my shifting problem... combined with a leaking clutch cylider that may have been caused by a buckling clevis under stiff clutch pedal.
Great! I ordered the ebay bearings (3 of them) also. Just search for this title:
I received the bearings last week, I have not had time to tackle it.... school is kicking my butt already... but i will get to it when I can... I might have to take the car in and get the brake master cyl and clutch cyl done at the same time, I don't think i have time to tackle it myself... then when I have that done i can do the bearing and clevis work.
Well, it is a sign that it needs attention... mine squeaked for a while and i ignored it... now its a more prominent issue. its good to check it over thoroughly if it is squeaking, and and possibly apply some grease if it is coming from the pin area.... If you have the time, the bearing jobby will definitely cure the squeak and prevent problems later.
That's hard to know... my guess, which is a factor in my case as well, is that the pedal action with regards to the clevis and pin assembly has some play in it, and so the pedal position in relation to the clevis and the clutch cylinder assembly is not consistent. By welding the clevis and installing a bearing, the action is more consistent and won't wear in the same manner. The squeaking is probably a result of wear, which will have more play in the action, or, the play and squeaking and wear are all related.
Just my guess since i haven't actually done it yet...
Some pics of my install with the addition of needle bearings for the main clutch pivot bolt as well as the now standard needle bearings for the clutch master cylinder push rod pivot . I went all metric with a 12mm X 8mm and a set of 3 16mm X 12mm . Also widened the pedal to 10mm at the bearing mount point to the same width as the bearing . Over kill ya ... but so SMOOTH
OK so wait..........hold on. Drill the hole to 1/2 in and just put the bearing in? is that it? Do you have to weld the bearing in or just insert and it just stays in place?
i just ordered some 8mm x 14mm x 4mm bearings.... hopefully the center will be the right fit.
the other dimensions are 5/16" (7.9mm) x 1/2" (12.7mm) x 5/32" (3.9675mm) so the 8mm ID should be ideal and the 14mm OD shouldn't be much of an issue since it's only 1.3mm larger... being a tad wider might also be helpful as well
Anybody try green loctite to make sure it doesn't come out? Its cheap insurance... You could use red, but then it sucks to get back out if it goes bad on you.
Just my 2c
Great discovery Turbro, I'll be doing this sooner or later.
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