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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well mell fellow AW11 addicts it is time,

I need something to keep me busy this coming spring/summer and have decieded to turbo my aw11. Ive considered supercharging but for once im drawn to something *gasp* popular in the current car scene. I need your advice on how to approach this on a cheap budget. Yes ive looked at 4agte.com and its helped

Engine: Stock, 7 rib 1988 90,000 mile 4AGE TVIS stock compression

Headers/turbo manifold: I plan on either yanking out some turbo headers of a 1.8t VW/Audi and making a plate to modify them to fit, or weld on a flange to the bottom of the stock 4AGE headers. Possibly Run the turbo in the trunk.

Turbo: I want to start out running 5-7 psi but a turbo that could push more is fine. Im thinking of running a relativly small turbo that will spool at fast to moderate speeds. Since the 4AGE deosnt really pull untill you get up there in the rpms i wouldnt mind if the turbo didnt hit much boost untill 3k-4000rpms anyways, and will pull up to around 6.5-7000 rpms

I plan on finding a decent rubo from the local junkyards. Im looking at k03's (small tubro for 1.8t VW,Audis), IHI RHB5s (from probes, mx-6s), the turbo off the 80's ford T bird, and maybe a common t3 (pt cruiser, lebaron etc.)

Would a larger turbo (T25,T3) be fine for my application?

Fuel, ignition: Is it true the Stock ECU can manage up to 5 psi with stcok fuel pump, injectors? Where is the best place to pick up a MegaSquirt computer? and what kind of Megasquirt will I need?

Intercooler: ill probably pull one out of something at the junkyard, I dont plan on running real high boost so im not overly concerened about this issue.

Yes im slightly rat-roddish because it is cheap, and I love toyota but that doesnt stop me from pulling out parts from other cars if they are cheap.

Thanks for any replies and info.
 

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Turbo: T25 is perfect
Stock ECU = NO (mabye in a perfect world with cars that werent 20 years old)
Megasquirt: www.diyautotune.com
Intercooler: Dosent have to be crazy , be creative.. (no heater cores lol!)
 

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Honestly, it sounds like you're all over the place with your idea. Not long ago it was talk about adding cams to your NA.

A turbo for only 5psi should spool well before 4K if I read my information right. I think you're asking for reliability issues running cast 9.4:1 NA pistons on possibly stock engine management while being concerned regarding intercooling. Welding to cast iron manifolds is difficult at the very least. I've asked an experienced machinist about it in the case of simply welding a crack. Although it technically is feasible under the right conditions, it is not recommended.

BTW, Megasquirt info can be found here including where to purchase it.

How reliable do you want this?
Do you have another vehicle while this one is down?
How is the suspension going to handle with the extra power? Even though the stock 88 SC suspension was the same as the 88 NA, I always felt it was a weak point. The '89 saw the return of a 12mm rear swybar to try to add some correction to it again. Even though I have a low mileage '89 SC, I went ahead and did some suspension tweaking to get it in balance. Adding more power with a turbo will likely result in poor handling if the suspension is original. Add the fact that I know you've done a lot of stereo related work in the frunk that puts weight there...
I presume you'd stay with the C-series transaxle. How's your clutch--uprated? Will it hold the extra power?

I know you have a stated you have a nice condition 88 in an area where there are few--I would really evaluate cutting holes twice before getting out the sawzall. Do you really want this?

We know the mileage of your engine. How's the compression? Would rebuilding a spare block as low-comp be wiser? Keep the NA engine NA if it's reasonably healthy--maybe? ...in case this wasn't working or your funding runs low?

You seem to be all over with your ideas. Sorry if I come off critical. I was trying to write this nicely. My point is to pinpoint a focus and execute it well. You're asking questions--good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Phos,

WIwhite87,

Yeah i just am looking for a new project, I completed my custom stereo and now its time to move on.

At first I looked at cams, and after talking about it I decieded to stay stock with them I thought about going higher comp, and building up the NA, but in all reality I found out turbo'ing is a heck of alot cheaper then throughing in 400 dollor cams, new pistons etc etc.

I know their are guys that have run up to 11psi for thousands of miles on stock compression (was a mistake by the company that ceramic coated 4age instead of 4agze pistons but its true) I do not think running small amounts of boost on stock comp is a problem from what ive read. I do plan on getting my engine tested for compression and fix anything that needs it done or get a new block to putz with.

Im going to work on suspension this summer when their isnt snow all over the ground. I plan on new struts and a coilover conversion so I can raise it slightly in winter and lower slightly in summer.

As far as custom welding goes... Im pretty skilled at welding and have been taking a class for months. If I cant weld to stock headers ill pull some other ones off ebay/junkyard tell I get it to work.

My clutch has less then 3,000 miles on it and I do plan on using my C serries tranny. I have not heard that the C series cant handle the power im speaking of.

Yes this is my daily driver and i want it reasonably durable. I am not talking crazy boost, 8psi max probably starting at 5psi. So yes i am a bit over the place but im learning, thats why I am here. I just see custom turbo set-up to be a better learning process and more bang for the buck then throwing in cams.

I agree it would be smart to go buy a 4ag/ze block and build that up and not touch the NA a much.
*shrug* just learning here and getting ideas.
 

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FWIW, feral4 is running (has been for a while) a turbo on an NA block with SC electronics with 0 problems, I'm running a T-25 on a GZE engine @10 psi with all NA electronics and have 0 problems. I also have a modified stock cast manifold with a flange welded to it, if done correctly it will work, last and be very reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
^thats what I want to hear :D
How the hell did you get the NA electronics to work with boost? rechipped?
 

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As long as you get the right amount of fuel in the mix the and keep the intake temps under control you're ok. I have GZE injectors and a modded AFM and that is it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know DSM injectors are used alot, and are more available so ill probably go with them. How did you mod your AFM? I thought it was war too complicated to run that much boost for stock electronics that dont have a fuel map adjusted.
 

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I heard about the ceramic coated 9.4:1 pistons from TED... granted, they were ceramic coated which helps with heat and detonation IIRC.

The others are either running the GZE block and NA ECU or the reverse with strong considerations for getting the fuel mapping balanced out.

With all the newer engines that are even higher compression having turbos slapped on them without modification to the ECU, I don't doubt this can be done. The key is in the tuning, and knowing what to adjust to bring it back within the limits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes i was talking about TED. I would like to get megasquirt no matter what but if I can run turbo at low psi with a slightly modded afm SAFELY while saving up for a better ECU then why not.
 

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so if i had a bone stock 4age and put the 4agze ecu and injectors in and fuel pump, u think i could run 10-12 psi???safely all day with a good turbo setup, like a t25 or 14b.
i would get a talon side mount ic.
 

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can u plz be more specific with the "gze electronics" like just ecu or..... and how much psi can u run then like will the ecu tell the turbo to run 8 psi, what is stock?? or what the wastegate is on it? 14b is like 14psi on a talon, i dunno what the t25 is.
 

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Dude, if you have been reading this section of the board for a while you should already know that you'll need all of the SC electronics, ie, ECU, igniter, distributor, AFM, TPS... it has been said/posted about a hundred times. Now the ECU has no control over boost, boost is regulated by the WG spring itself or an electronic boost controller, the T25 is regulated at either 7 or 10 psi depending on which WG actuator you have but it will boost up to 15 psi all day long if you want it to. I have no clue about the 14b, I know nothing about those besides the fact that it will spool a little slower but it will also flow more air than the T-25.
 

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Papo J said:
As long as you get the right amount of fuel in the mix the and keep the intake temps under control you're ok. I have GZE injectors and a modded AFM and that is it.
when you say "modded afm" what do you mean. whats involved in making the afm work with boost
 

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You need to either loosen or tighten the spring depending on the size injectors you're using. That's all it takes but you need to be careful because as you make the spring tighter you're telling the ecu that less air is flowing in and the ecu advances the timing and you don't want too much timing advance with boost. It has worked for me so far but if you're not sure of what to do get a piggyback or a stand alone ecu instead.
 

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i could probably search for this but ill just keep this thread going. what are some companies that make stand alone ecu's specifically for our 4age. or would i have to take out my ecu and send it in and what not. reason im so curious is because i just picked up a 14b turbo off a good friend of mine for really cheap. 0 bearing play it has only 4000 miles on it. so that pretty much got the ball rolling for me.
 
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