[MK2MR2]

I just finished my car, finally, 93 NA to 93 JDM Gen2. Drove it for the first time the other night and ever since I am getting a CEL light @ 4k, doesn't matter the gear. It will come on/off and after the 2-3 time it will stay on but it'll go away after turning the car off. Got these codes:

12 - PRM Signal
42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (This one I am ignoring since my speedo does not work yet)

Relevant Mods:

50-Trim TD06 kit (OMFG this thing doesn't boost until forever, I am not liking it)
Kinugawa Wastegate with 12lb spring (running straight off WG pressure, no controller)
EMS Intercooler/Exhaust/Intake etc.
No BOV

Every once in a while it feels like it hits fuel cut, but I have never seen the gauge read past 11-12lbs, but CEL light comes on as soon as boost hits. And good lord does it build boost slow as all hell...no boost leaks, no vacuum leaks, etc.

Any ideas?

 

[MK2MR2]

Nobody?

I took the hot pipe off and the intake and I saw some oil in there, not a whole bunch but enough to worry me. The compressor was dry, no signs of oil on that at all, I have the valve cover vented to atmosphere via a filter. My head was just rebuilt so I don't think my seals are going and my turbo is fine, so it can't be any oil seals. The oil doesn't go past the hotpipe though, barely halfway through it, everything else is dry.

I am not building boost until extremely late in the RPM range. My gauge is reading negative then 0, while I am accelerating, then slooowwwly build boost. Could this be a massive leak somewhere? I've checked and replaced every vacuum hose and coupler with new ones before I installed the TD06. Maybe the 50-trim wheel is just that slow to spool...?

I need some guidance :/

 

[J.harris]

Are you getting code 12 or 13?

12 is RPM signal
13 is PRM signal

 

[MK2MR2]

I get 12, but according to this it's the PRM signal...unless it's labeled wrong:

Diagnostics

 

[J.harris]

Guess they changed it from 91 to 93. I would just start looking at the distributor connector, usually the wires get coated in oil and the insulation falls apart.

 

[benckj]

On the later model gen 3 ECU's there is code which will reduce fuel cut if ECU does not receive speed signal. This was to eliminate people cutting speed signal to remove speed cut of 180km/hr. Not sure if this is your issue as mainly on the JDM ECU's.

I'd be getting your speed signal sorted first then diagnoising from there. BTW isn't 12psi wastegate spring a bit strong?

jim

 

[MK2MR2]

My motor is JDM, so maybe that could be part of it. Well there was a 1.5bar spring in there to begin with but the wastegate came with a bunch, I only wanna run off of WG pressure so I thought 12 was a good medium.

What do you mean by strong? Should it be higher/lower, and why?

 

[GrrrrrrrNZ]

Is the TVIS system working? If the butterflys didn't open that would explain lack of power.

Did you do the timing belt when swapping the motor? Check you aren't a tooth out on the cam timing, that'd make the car a complete slug.

 

[MK2MR2]

TVIS is gonzo, ATS spacer there. I did just check with a timing light and set it back to 10 degrees...weird though, it occasionally jumps to 0 every 2-3 seconds then back to 10. I'm gonna check it manually in a bit though.

Also disconnected the top port on the WG to see if it would build boost faster, nothing
same slow deal.

 

[GrrrrrrrNZ]

As above, did you change any timing belt related stuff when you installed the motor? If you did, double check the mechanical timing is right (not ignition timing!). Take the cam cover off and turn the crank till the two notches on the cams line up with the marks on the back of the #1 cam caps, then make sure the crank pulley reads TDC. If all three don't line up your timing is out and needs to be corrected.

 

[MK2MR2]

Yessir, I did indeed do a complete overhaul of the motor before I swapped. Timing components are new, I will check timing here shortly and report back. My timing before all of this was dead on though, I'd hate to see it jump a tooth :/

 

[MK2MR2]

Timing, etc

Timing is right on the money:

I keep noticing oil in my intake and hot pipe...After 20 mins of driving it has a good amount smeared throughout both pipes, enough to drip out when I pull them off. Please don't tell me some seals are going on the turbo, my head was just rebuilt and s'far as I know so was the turbo before I bought it.

I have no catch can, just the valve cover vented to atmosphere, no BOV and the only thing plugged into the intake hose is the IACV hose...any idea why I'm having so much oil in there? It's freaking me out

 

[MK2MR2]

Update:

Found the boost leak, apparently one of the bolts on the back of the comp cover came off, the ones that help the wastegate bracket stay on...put thread locker on those bad boys and torqued em to spec. Boost comes on strong, really strong. Soon as it cools off I'll check if oil is still coming through the intake/intercooler pipes.

 

[ATS_Scott]

Random CEL on a 93+ ECU? I'd take the cover off the ECU and check capacitors ASAP. In fact I'd just replace them whether they look bad or not, unless the board is already damaged.

 

[MK2MR2]

Well I think you're on to something with that....Just turned the car on and I didn't even make it out of my driveway and the CEL came on. Code 52.

FML, that's knock right? BGB says to check ECU...damn this blows.

 

[MK2MR2]

ECU is fine, no blown capacitors. Seeing as how this is my 3rd ECu on this swap, if this one was bad I swear to god...

Got another knock sensor from Artur @ MR2Source, but it sucks that I have knock already. I am running a mixture of 91 and E85, wanted to lean it out a bit for a smog test but I failed anyway.