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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Everyone keeps saying that the best part about the 3sgte is that it can be easily modifiable 10.0.0.0.1 300hp (+) but do you only need a decent tune or do you need to exchange some parts in the engine ,if a tune is only needed ,is it reliable enough to stand 300hp without any hardware changes ?
 

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I wouldn’t say it’s easy to reach 300whp but certainly achievable with moderate hardware changes include; exhaust, IC, boost control, turbo & fuel mods. Depending on your starting platform and experience this can be reasonably straight forward.

jim
 

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As Jim says, it'll also depend on which version/gen you start with.
Consider that a gen3 has 245hp (crank) stock, free up breathing (intake, SMIC, downpipe, exhaust) and put some extra psi to it and it'll go up quite a bit
 

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I Dyno’d 296hp with gen 2. all I changed was the ecu (stand alone), it already had a 20b turbo, so I bought larger injectors, fuel pump and probably something else I’m forgetting... That was only a base line... days after that I did the manifold/Kai 51R turbo, exhaust, RMIC, etc... the stock IC is junk... the GReddy SMIC are better but still semi limited... the stand alone ecu is key imo... of course the tuner is really key... I happen to be good friends with someone that is really good at getting the Nth out of an A/F tune
 

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Whole can of worms here. short answer.... Yes.
long answer really depends on what gen 3s you choose and how you want that power to hit the pavement.
I took the 4th gen route. "in theory" or "on paper" it only takes an upgraded exhaust, intercooler and boost controller to hit close to 300hp. a little more to do it reliably and there is some questions as to the stoutness of the 4th gen internals. 2nd and 3rd gens have bigger (and reportedly stronger) internals so if you are chasing max boost/HP those will be a better choice to start with.
even with stock rating of ~250hp a 3rd or 4th gen in an MR2 is a fast car. 3rd gen will wind out higher where the 4th gen gets all its puff earlier on.

lots of 3sgte info out there. get familiar with the various gens and decide what your build goals are. chasing pure HP numbers isn't the way to go about a build.. IMO
 

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Any gen can make 300whp easy, but some make it with less or more mods. Gen 4 will make it the easiest with only bolt ons and higher boost....but gen 4 requires more modifications to be fitted into a mr2 and a modified turbo.

I went with a gen 3 3sgte because the stock ct20b turbo can be boosted to 18-19psi with a water to air intercooler, 3inch exhaust and k&n intake....you can make 280-290whp with no problem. With a custom tune & billet turbo, 320+whp has been proven.

With a Gen 2 300whp is possible but you need alot of mods, that might overwelm a newbie mr2 owner.
 

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Question: how do you tune the Jdm 3gste gen 3 motor. The goal is to get to 300whp.
I see a lot of info on usdm but not Jdm gen 3.

the car I’m about to get has Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator with twin slim electric fans, upgraded Mishimoto Intercooler, Intake, blitz exhaust.

I’m gonna need a blitz down pipe and boost controller. Not sure which controller to get.
 

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Question: how do you tune the Jdm 3gste gen 3 motor. The goal is to get to 300whp.
I see a lot of info on usdm but not Jdm gen 3.

the car I’m about to get has Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator with twin slim electric fans, upgraded Mishimoto Intercooler, Intake, blitz exhaust.

I’m gonna need a blitz down pipe and boost controller. Not sure which controller to get.
Easiest way without tuning is to put a bigger turbo like a gt28 or gt30 and boost 17 psi or so but make sure you monitor the afrs.
 

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Easiest way without tuning is to put a bigger turbo like a gt28 or gt30 and boost 17 psi or so but make sure you monitor the afrs.
What are tuning options? With my wrx and Evo X I just got my Cobb and it was easy plug and play. For gen 3 3gste what’s the options?
 

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Can't tune these MR2 ECUs. If you want to do that you need a whole replacement ECU. But LINK make a plug in G4+ that is excellent. Just need to update the air temp sensor in the manifold and then you can tune it better.
That’s what I thought! Thanks for the update.
What’s your thoughts on ROM tunes?
 

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That’s what I thought! Thanks for the update.
What’s your thoughts on ROM tunes?
Not really doable on an MR2 ECU. You can buy aftermarket ECUs for the JDM engines that run on 100 RON octane fuel but once you start doing any changes you are safest to tune to that specific engine with its specific mechanical parts and electronics rather than just finding a tune that's preset.
 

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Not really doable on an MR2 ECU. You can buy aftermarket ECUs for the JDM engines that run on 100 RON octane fuel but once you start doing any changes you are safest to tune to that specific engine with its specific mechanical parts and electronics rather than just finding a tune that's preset.
Thanks! I think stock is the best for me. :)
 

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I ran a Haltec on my first MR2, they work great, was easy to tune... granted there are a lot more options nowadays... 300hp isn’t a hard task tho...
 

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A long time ago, on this very forum, i recall someone posting ~400-ish with all the boltons and a piggyback MITM on their still gen3-factory-ECU, AVCR maybe? It was quality hardware for the times :). Cars above 300 were pretty rare, there were a few built ones already doing the absurd, but i think actually built engines were not nearly as popular until more recently.
Nowadays, 300 is much much easier. Current ECUs process many events for each piston stroke, making much more fine-grained adjustments per spark ignition. It does require precise and timely data though - MAP sensor, wideband, clean electrical system. Its at the point now where even motors without direct injection are being built with higher compression ratios than the factory used for lower boost applications because ECUs can keep up with knock and engine conditions that much better. Well, that, and e85 is apparently some sort of panacea :).
 

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Not really doable on an MR2 ECU. You can buy aftermarket ECUs for the JDM engines that run on 100 RON octane fuel but once you start doing any changes you are safest to tune to that specific engine with its specific mechanical parts and electronics rather than just finding a tune that's preset.
ATS has been selling ROM tunes for multiple configureations (turbos, inter-coolers, down pipes, injectors, etc..) for years and I wouldn't think twice about using one of theirs. One of their billet ct21-Black Jack turbos, some 550 injectors, ATS bored fuel rail with recalibrated FPR, eBay SMIC, and their ROM tune for this set up should see 300rwhp. I know they'd suggest a fuel pump upgrade but I'm not sure you'd need it. If you've got the time and money I'd say do it. I've never dropped the fuel tank but I know it's a major PITA.
 
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