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Can keyless entry be added to the stock security system of a 1994 model year MR2? Which key fob would I need to get and how is it done?

Thanks!
 

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Keyless entry is quite easy to add. I have a $12 keyless entry system off of amazon and it's been working for about a year now with no issues.
 

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Can you elaborate on how you set up the keyless entry? Thanks!
It's not very difficult, only about 6-7 wires to actually splice in. I've been meaning to make a guide for it but I've been busy, doing a motor swap this weekend so maybe I'll get around to it after that.
 

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Any updates on this?

My 94 MR2 (doesn't have security system I believe - how can you tell? ) Its getting a little hard with the key in the lock cylinders in the door. Sometimes have to jiggle.

Was thinking of adding keyless entry.
 

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Any updates on this?

My 94 MR2 (doesn't have security system I believe - how can you tell? ) Its getting a little hard with the key in the lock cylinders in the door. Sometimes have to jiggle.

Was thinking of adding keyless entry.
I purchased and installed this system in January 2017. It's been working fine. The only thing is occasionally I need to press the opposite button first, for example, if I want to unlock, I need to press lock first, then unlock, or vice versa. For $16.99 and simple install I can't complain too much. In nearly two years of use I haven't even had to replace the original FOB batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/

I don't recall exactly which wiring guide I used but it was similar to this one:

1990-1995_Toyota_MR2_Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram

Or now that I think of it, it was probably this one:

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

They're both the same so that's reassuring.
 

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... Its getting a little hard with the key in the lock cylinders in the door. Sometimes have to jiggle...
Try spraying some WD40 into the keyholes, and have new keys cut to code. That can bring back an old lock.

I know that some people say that only graphite should go into locks, but that is really useless unless the lock has been disassembled and cleaned. You need a solvent that will go all the way into the tumbler galleries and cut the existing lubricants that have gummed up. Once the lock has been freed up you can use a better lubricant.
 

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Try spraying some WD40 into the keyholes, and have new keys cut to code. That can bring back an old lock.

I know that some people say that only graphite should go into locks, but that is really useless unless the lock has been disassembled and cleaned. You need a solvent that will go all the way into the tumbler galleries and cut the existing lubricants that have gummed up. Once the lock has been freed up you can use a better lubricant.
Thank you. My regular original key was having a little trouble in both doors, and trunk - never in ignition. I tried the spare key a bit (almost never used) and I think almost same thing -will double check.

I will do the WD40. I can't find the key code (I sent an email to my dealer to see if they can cut it to VIN). Which is what I am hoping.
 

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I purchased and installed this system in January 2017. It's been working fine. The only thing is occasionally I need to press the opposite button first, for example, if I want to unlock, I need to press lock first, then unlock, or vice versa. For $16.99 and simple install I can't complain too much. In nearly two years of use I haven't even had to replace the original FOB batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/

I don't recall exactly which wiring guide I used but it was similar to this one:

1990-1995_Toyota_MR2_Vehicle Wiring Chart and Diagram

Or now that I think of it, it was probably this one:

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

They're both the same so that's reassuring.
Thank you kindly. The car is so original, that I didn't want to do any wiring work to it. But I may have to, for convenience, and if the new cut keys don't work. I will update what I do.
 

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Try spraying some WD40 into the keyholes, and have new keys cut to code. That can bring back an old lock.

I know that some people say that only graphite should go into locks, but that is really useless unless the lock has been disassembled and cleaned. You need a solvent that will go all the way into the tumbler galleries and cut the existing lubricants that have gummed up. Once the lock has been freed up you can use a better lubricant.
So the dealer called back, said its $25 for a new first key, and $5 for second key. He actually said exactly what you said, that after a rain, he gets a lot of calls, and not to make the key right away, but do do a little bit of wd40 in the locks.
 

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Make sure to grease the key hole using white lithium grease if your key seems to be having a hard time to turn the key cylinder.
 

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I've been looking to do this but my car has an odd wiring issue. I can lock/unlock the car from the outside the drivers door, yet it only the drivers door unlocks. Same for if I got the bottom inside the car. If I unlock from the passenger door then it'll do the passenger door and trunk...for some reason the two sides don't talk to each other.

I'd like to take it a step further by adding remote start and windows up/down via remote. I had Best Buy install a setup in my truck that made all 4 windows one touch up/down, rolls them up automatically when I lock it, 2 mile remote start range and bunch of other options for logging in my bed, tailgate, etc...but it was close to $800 after it was all said and done, which is WAY more than I wanna spend again.
 

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I've been looking to do this but my car has an odd wiring issue. I can lock/unlock the car from the outside the drivers door, yet it only the drivers door unlocks. Same for if I got the bottom inside the car. If I unlock from the passenger door then it'll do the passenger door and trunk...for some reason the two sides don't talk to each other.

I'd like to take it a step further by adding remote start and windows up/down via remote. I had Best Buy install a setup in my truck that made all 4 windows one touch up/down, rolls them up automatically when I lock it, 2 mile remote start range and bunch of other options for logging in my bed, tailgate, etc...but it was close to $800 after it was all said and done, which is WAY more than I wanna spend again.
Two potential issues that could be happening here.

1. The wires in the drivers side door where it passes to the car have been broken. This is common for these cars but the wire could be random to what one is broken. This sounds more likely based on your description. It's odd that the trunk is even connected to the doors, I though it was fully manual and the lock could only be locked with the key.
2. The electrical switch mechanism on the drivers side key lock is worn or broken. The design of it is not very robust and if the key is used to unlock and lock the car it can easily stop working. I had this issue on my car but as I had a remote locking system on the car for so long I was not aware that the key wouldn't make the drivers side unlock.
 

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Correction, sorry, forget the trunk...unlocking from the passenger side keyhole makes the drivers door motor actuate (I can hear it) but it's not physically moving. Drivers door keyhole doesn't make any noises. The car only had two working rear speakers out of 7 total so I'm due to pull the door panels anyways.

I'm still curious about a keyless entry system that's remote start and will control the windows. No one's done such a thing?
 

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Correction, sorry, forget the trunk...unlocking from the passenger side keyhole makes the drivers door motor actuate (I can hear it) but it's not physically moving. Drivers door keyhole doesn't make any noises. The car only had two working rear speakers out of 7 total so I'm due to pull the door panels anyways.

I'm still curious about a keyless entry system that's remote start and will control the windows. No one's done such a thing?
Ah right. Probably best to take the door cards off to check what is making the noise. The lock cylinder won't move when the opposite door is unlocked. It is not connected to the mechanism in that way.

I know of someone here who put keyless entry and remote start on his manual AW11. Not sure about windows but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to wire in a control system as the wiring isn't' that complicated. You could put it all in the drivers door.
 

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What would be really nice is if this were completely or nearly plug and play, mostly to make it reversible without having to tap/splice wires. Maybe finding the connectors or cannibalize from another car to make your own harness. Since there are only a few wires to actually wire up it might not be that hard... or even worth it
 
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