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Discussion Starter #61
Any update on the itbs? I have been thinking about making my own for over a year vs turbo route. I am running a v88 (I have a mrs) and currently on the DBW. I can run mechanical throttle body so it doesn't matter to me. I have been looking at the BMW DBW itbs as stealing some components to make my own running one on each bank as the inlet doesn't line up. Either way, excited about the results.
This engine is not running ITB but a plenum with single throttle body. These velocity stacks are the base of the plenum. No update on this as I have busy with work and some other interests.
The ITB for the 1MZ will be fitted to a friends car for testing/R&D. No doubt there will be video of these when its running.
 

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Hi there can anyone tell me if these regrinds will suit the Toyota Aurion with 2GR-FE also if there is anyone in Melbourne able to tune the standard ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I have no answer on the regrind or the tuner for the standard ECU. There is someone in south Melbourne who tunes Haltech and the likes for the 2GR. Also another one in S.A. who well versed in the 2GR.
Mine is still not running as yet due to a ongoing issue with tweeking the throttle bodies. Hopefully it will sorted out in a few weeks time.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Thank you very much for sharing your build, just curious if you are going to be using the stock oiling system?
No worries mate.
It has standard oil pump which has been shimmed for a little more pressure.
It also has a baffled sump and accusump.

Dry sump would be nice but not necessary at this level of hobby racing.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I didn't realize how long it had been since updated on this build. It has been a tough time getting it to this point as there have been many set backs due to incompetent trade services and various other delays. At this stage I do lack a lot of the energy that I had a few years ago but I still slowly push through to make it work. I have built and tuned two of these engines while using my car as the mule for both engines.

When the second engine was removed then shipped to Canada, then my engine re-installed I rebuilt the wiring harness from scratch as there were still problems from the idiot who was contracted to do the work. It now has bulkhead connectors for wiring and wiring relocated to the inner foot-well for small gains with weight distribution. The car has just been upgraded with 1000cc injectors to deal with E85 fuel and there have been a few small changes on the plumbing. Will be tuned again before venturing back to the track.

I have added a few photo's and a link to the youtube channel which has in-car footage, some of the tuning, some footage from outside the car.

Just on the experience of this set-up, it is quite hard to accept that crazy sounding engine is in the back of a MR2. It just does not compute in comparison to having the high power 3SGTE engine that it previously had in it as it is very different and so much better in every way. Times were immediately 2 seconds quicker with the same tyres which were 8 years old and many race km's on the tyre. Once its back on the track with decent tyres and all the bugs sorted it will destroy the old 3SGTE in track performance. To fit this into a street registered MR2 would be quite a treat but would certainly get you into some trouble with the local police if they happened to pull you over for a inspection.

Any questions, please ask.

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Wow that is some very serious and impressive work you've done to your car! I truly appreciate seeing someone do a serious NA build on this platform. Most people that do the 2GR swap stop there and most don't do it at all because they don't want to spent more money on the car than they paid for it, especially when turbo power is so cheap.

It was nice that Lotus put this engine on the performance map but it was also bad because of the premium that comes with Lotus parts and their unwillingness to put those 4 liter engines in to production cars or make the parts available to the public. I wonder why they find it so hard to make consistent profits...?

I have only had my SW20 for about 6 months. Prior to that I had a MR2 Spyder but only kept it for 3 months because the car was just too small for my 6'1 frame.

My goal for my SW20 is to first get it California legal with a 2GR swap. Then I want to bore and stroke the engine to 4 liters to build what I consider to be my ultimate NA 2GR. I am benchmarking the fords Voodoo engine power (hp per liter) since it has similar valve sizes and valve train design. Therefore, in theory, it should be able to make about 450-460 hp revving to 8k rpms on our wonderful 91 octane fuel. The car will mostly be a weekend/track car but must still be California legal so the engine needs to look oem during bi-annual inspections and the stock ecu needs to be present with stock tune. So it is going to be a balancing act. I will most likely have to ecu for the car 😄Plans are; custom rotating assembly (crank, piston, rods, cams); custom intake manifold (3D printed with the stock design but have a larger volume and accept a larger throttle body), the RCF throttle body will work great for this as it is 84mm (larger than a 911 GT3 and that car's engine gets to over 500hp without major throttle body restrictions) and all Toyota throttle bodies have the same connector.

My first set of questions for you is, nice your car is a track car and I supposed you are using very sticky tires and generating a good amount of G force:

1. What Gs does the car generate?
2. What is the max rpm that you run the engine at?
3. What is the spec of oil you are using?
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Wow that is some very serious and impressive work you've done to your car! I truly appreciate seeing someone do a serious NA build on this platform. Most people that do the 2GR swap stop there and most don't do it at all because they don't want to spent more money on the car than they paid for it, especially when turbo power is so cheap.

It was nice that Lotus put this engine on the performance map but it was also bad because of the premium that comes with Lotus parts and their unwillingness to put those 4 liter engines in to production cars or make the parts available to the public. I wonder why they find it so hard to make consistent profits...?

I have only had my SW20 for about 6 months. Prior to that I had a MR2 Spyder but only kept it for 3 months because the car was just too small for my 6'1 frame.

My goal for my SW20 is to first get it California legal with a 2GR swap. Then I want to bore and stroke the engine to 4 liters to build what I consider to be my ultimate NA 2GR. I am benchmarking the fords Voodoo engine power (hp per liter) since it has similar valve sizes and valve train design. Therefore, in theory, it should be able to make about 450-460 hp revving to 8k rpms on our wonderful 91 octane fuel. The car will mostly be a weekend/track car but must still be California legal so the engine needs to look oem during bi-annual inspections and the stock ecu needs to be present with stock tune. So it is going to be a balancing act. I will most likely have to ecu for the car 😄Plans are; custom rotating assembly (crank, piston, rods, cams); custom intake manifold (3D printed with the stock design but have a larger volume and accept a larger throttle body), the RCF throttle body will work great for this as it is 84mm (larger than a 911 GT3 and that car's engine gets to over 500hp without major throttle body restrictions) and all Toyota throttle bodies have the same connector.

My first set of questions for you is, nice your car is a track car and I supposed you are using very sticky tires and generating a good amount of G force:

1. What Gs does the car generate?
2. What is the max rpm that you run the engine at?
3. What is the spec of oil you are using?
Thankyou friend,

A lot has gone into the build and it is still a work in progress. This week I have been chasing up some parts to complete the Honda S2000 power steering rack modification.
The engine has turned out to be expensive in one sense but it's not too much more expensive than a 5SGTE build but have no lag, no heat management and a better sound!
The Lotus 4 litre is a great engine but feel it was increased to 4 litre to drop rpm for better fuel economy (race wise) and less strain on components due to rpm limit. Even if I have the money I would not go with the 4 litre. If anything I would shift to a 2FSE block and heads as the block is taller than the 2GR so you can come up with a better rod/stroke ratio which can help a little. This was discovered and executed by a car builder in Queensland/ Australia where he dropped the engine in a FT86 with a fully complied, emission friendly twin turbo 3.7 litre with 500 rwhp. It could easily hit 650+ with changes to exhaust restriction and tune. You can use the 2GR with Nissan sleeves and pistons to take it out to 3.7 litre or you can do as I did my pinning the block, take 1mm off the factory sleeve then use the Nissan 370z piston. I would recommend having a custom rod sorted out for it instead of modifying the block as this is not worth the hassle. Inlet ports need very little mods, certainly do not need to be increased in size while the exhaust can be raised to 270cfm with some work. MWR have a decent cam option but they are regrind cast cams where you can source billet from UK, Sweden, Australia or Kelford Cams in New Zealand as I have done. If you have the desire I would go with a dry sump if possible. Its not cheap but it will keep the engine together, gives you up to 20hp, and can help with weight balance by installing the oil tank at the front of the car. You can use the Ford ECOBOOST solid lifters and rockers to get over 8200 without creating oil issues with the existing hydraulic lifter but you can just stick with factory hydraulic lifter then rev to 8000rpm all day ( along with shimming the oil pressure relief valve)
The factory intake is good for 400hp (I have told this by a Aussie engineer who is well versed in these engines in race environments). If you want to go higher you need to run 395mm from valve to tip of intake ram tube then increase plenum volume.
To answer your questions, I do not know about G's as I have taken this data as yet. Will have more on it later in the year.
Max rpm is 8000rpm but has been to 8200. Would not go there too often as I am not confident with the cast oil pump gears.
Oil is 20/60 Nulon race oil. I used Brad Penn but it was all over the place as soon as some heat got into it. I use the heavier oil due to Aussie climate and application.
 

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@B24nsw Why the S2000 power steering rack and not the MR2 Spyder/MRS pinion upgrade?

I don’t know what the dimensions of Lotus’ 4 liter engine are but with the 97mm Darton sleeves made for them and a 90mm crankshaft at worse they will have a 1.6:1 rod:stroke ratio. This can be improved upon to about 1.63:1 with a tighter ring package, and it is very comparable to the 1.61:1 rod:stroke ration of Ford’s Voodoo and Coyote engines so I don’t see too much of a problem there. I would limit this setup to 8000rpms though as V6 cranks are known to crack with prolonged use when revving higher. In a street car that will only see such abuse at an occasional track day or highway pull it should be fine.

The FSE block may have a taller deck but the bolt pattern for the transmission is only for the longitudinal layout. If you know of someone who has managed to put the FSE heads on the FE block in a transverse application please let me know as I would love to take advantage of the extra compression afforded by those heads.

I will definitely be getting custom rods. In fact, I will be getting an entire custom rotating assembly as no company makes publicly available, off-the-shelf engine parts for these engines. Do the companies you mentioned in Europe offer custom cams? The MWR options are okay but those are safe cams with low valve lift so they can work with stock valve reliefs. I want more lift, between 13mm and 14mm.

I will only dry sump the engine if I can keep all ancillaries, namely the one that always get ditched, the AC compressor. If that is not possible then I will use the Moroso oil pan with some heavy oil (10w50 or greater), get a billet oil pump gear and keep my fingers crossed.

Since I am already steeling a lot of ideas from ford engines, I will add those ecoboost solid valve lifters to the bag.

As for the stock intake manifold, my aim is 460 hp which is 115hp per liter. This “should” be achievable by a NA 12:1 compression motor revving to 8K. The intake manifold design I have in mind is similar to that of the Honda J series engines. Instead of having all six intakes routed into a single large plenum, it separates the plenums into two smaller chambers which helps speed up airflow at lower rpms to aid in low end torque while still having enough volume to support high rpm power. This is very important for me since I will be using a single throttle body instead of ITBs to avoid dealing with an aftermarket ecu. I will also keep that Aussie engineer’s recommendations in mind.
 
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