It could, but the flange is the $$$ part, plus a lot of labor to replicate 80% of the OEM pan. Honestly, if I were fabbing it in my garage I'd just mod a stock pan. If I were making a new product to sell, I'd make it out of aluminum.I forget Moroso makes a pan, I'd be very interested to see data on it. I'd consider it but $800 is a big bullet for an oil pan.
DefSport, that could be made of sheet aluminum if you're up for making an entire pan. Which I am considering.
Agreed. Not a huge fan of sealing on a bunch of plugs on the bottom to save a bit of fabrication time.Depends on where you buy it. List price on Moroso's website is 806, but looks like it's 595 on Monkey Wrench Racing still.
Not saying it will leak, but having four extra holes in the bottom of the pan to access the bolts just adds more spots that need to be sealed. With the right sealant it's probably fine.
Fair point on the flange. I'd just find someone local with a CNC router that can cut one out. Or find a makerspace with a milling machine and just do it by hand matching the stock flangeIt could, but the flange is the $$$ part, plus a lot of labor to replicate 80% of the OEM pan. Honestly, if I were fabbing it in my garage I'd just mod a stock pan. If I were making a new product to sell, I'd make it out of aluminum.
Agree. Maybe you could bribe Toyota into pressing some aluminum pans for a group buy. Hell, if they did that I'd buy one. No such thing as insignificant weight savingsWater jets or even plasma tables are king for flanges. It’s still a lot of material for 1 piece flanges and some expensive machine time.
Alex what is the benefit of the rubber pickup? I'm sure there is one I'm just not seeing itI looked into buying one of those Track Group oil pickups, but their website doesn't have any shipping options to the US. So instead I ordered the Mercedes rubber pickup foot and at some point this winter will try to modify my stock pickup to fit it. Will probably be a long time before I have any data to see if it works though
I suppose functionally the same, but the risk there is a small dent on the oil pan can totally starve your engine of oil near instantly if it blocks the pickup. The SR20DET's stock pickup, especially the earlier redtop models is faces down almost 100% and sits close to the stock pan. A small dent there has trashed many an SR as a result, and it supposedly happens really quickly as you'd imagine of drastically restricting oil flow. Cast aluminum pans are seen as a bit of a safety issue there due to this (as well as the later pickup which has some better reinforcement on the pickup tube and it opens the pickup hole to not be blocked off as easily by a slightly dented pan).Oh I see. Functionally would that be any different from extending the pickup further down into the pan?
On one hand I know this, and as I have said before, we are fortunate that the 2GR oiling system is so much better than prior Toyota V6's (which required an accusump if you were to even think about taking them on the track from what I have read).Granted these days I'm racing the 2AR, not the 2GR but i have put an absolute ton of track miles on the 2GR (probably 8000miles or so) and the 2AR is nearly identical as far as the oil pan goes. I have a 2AR motor that had between 30k and 35k of endurance racing on it, it's all i did with it for 9.5 years. It eventually suffered a rear main failure and when i took it apart the bearings still looked new. I realize this is the 2AR not the 2GR but they are very similar at the bottom and in the 8000miles of 2GR racing i've never seen glitter in the oil filter on oil changes which is actually even better than the 2AR at the end of it's racing life. The only oiling weakness I've found in these motors is the forward thrust bearing really does not have enough surface area to be used in a manual transmission application, that's the little bit of glitter i started seeing in the oil filter at the end of it's first life. That was the only bearing that had any wear at all on it and it does not get any pressure lubrication so that isn't an oil pump issue. Even the cylinder bores were only ovaled by .0005" so the cylinder walls were also getting plenty of lubrication in all the positions.
A dry sump can be neat but to me it's an extra failure point and empirically i just can't see that it is needed at all.
With all this said, when i started racing the 2GR i did install an accusump but the system had a small leak and was leaking small droplets of oil on the header so i removed it (the leak was 100% my fault, not the accusump)
Something i did notice when i had it is the 2qt accusump had a little over 20seconds of bleed down time before it kicked on the low oil pressure light so if i were to do it again i would use the 1qt unit. I'd use an even smaller unit if it was available but i haven't seen a smaller one.
I wonder how much of this is from shifts and how much is from startup when there is zero oil pressure? Or do you have the clutch start switch bypassed? I do primarily for this reason.The right side is the thrust face that you push against when you push the clutch, i'd say that bearing is past it's life and probably should have been replaced after 20-25k track miles. It's got a ridiculously high number of shifts near or above the stock redline.