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Discussion Starter #1
guys in an attempt to install my rear trd sway bar I tried lowering the crossmember but broke the rear driver side crossmember bolt. it was brittle old and deformed looking. what do i do now, can i drive with 3 of the 4 bolts still on and be safe. mind you i do alot of touge, autocross and road racing.
 

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I think you'd be able to get somewhere with 3/4 of the bolts. But why not just take a different car to Toyota and buy the bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the car right now is on the phase of a project. no engine no control arms. and im afraid that i could end up breaking all the rest. in this case what should i do if i did end up breaking every crossmember bolt. also what can i do to prevent the others from being broken. i've already pb blast them.
 

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Might have to apply some sort of heat to get them out. Heat up where the bolt threads in and that might do that trick. Are you using an impact wrench or a ratchet\breaker bar?

if you break all the cross member bolts, the cross member should drop down. In which case you could probably get some sort of wrench on the rest of the bolt that is left there and try spinning it out with using heat as described above, or might have to drill the bolt out.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yea but drilling grade 10 bolts takes for freakin ever. drilling is a very very very last resort. im using a breaker bar. oh so much trouble just for a sway bar. i mean i coulda just left it alone but i don't think its safe doing motorsports with just 3/4 bolts. so in anycase im stuck fixing it. any more advice. id help im going to take another stab at the 3 other bolts tomarrow in which case i'll ethier take or break them of.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well finally got the rest of the bolts off. luckly that was the only one broken.
 

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One trick for getting the broken bolt off is to weld a nut onto what's left of the shaft. If you don't have access to a welder you can try with a vice grip, but it may not be able to ally enough force. If you have access to a dremmel (and you have at least 1" of the old bolt sticking out), another option might to carefully cut a 1/2" slot into the end of the bolt and then use a strong screwdriver with a wrench fitting to turn it out.

I've found when working with old bolts that slow, steady pressure is usually safer than an impact wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
my friend has a tool for broken bolts that he swears by. well try that first. right now im just bathing whats left of the bolt in pb blaster (1" left sticking out) im planning on filling a small cup with pb blaster and then setting it right under the bolt so that the bolt and area around it gets soaked.
 

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If it's as bad as my crossmember bolt was, welding a nut onto the end of it was pretty much the only way it was coming out.

What's this tool that your friend uses?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
its an extractor with three rollers in it which tighthens up as you tourqe it more. i use my craftsman spiral extractor today. hammered it in and heated up the bolt. after turning it some it broke of. now all i got left is to drill it. oh what a PITA this is getting to be all for just a rear sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well guys after drilling aboyt 1.5" deep i went to the nest size up slowly drilling. and snap. freaking colbolt bits.. now im [email protected]%^ i guess my only option it to tow the car to a shop that has EDM so they can get rid of the bolt. all this for a rear sway bar. im still in disbelief. i even have nightmeres about this bolt.
 

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Where you at in MN? If you can, try to use a left handed drill bit. The problem with stepping up to the next size drill bit with using a hand drill.....is that you can't drill down nice and slow. If you can get the same size in left handed, well....instead of tourqing it in, it will if anything help unscrew it. And yeah, if worse comes to worse.....it can be EDM'd out. One of our EDM machines at our shop is big enough for a rear cross member to fit in the tank, but I'm probably a few hours from you.

You can also pick up a carbide drill from msc direct. They're about 30$ or so http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2045229&PMT4NO=0
heres a left handed .5" drill for like 25 http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1679890&PMT4NO=0

hth andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #13
not the crossmember. its on my frame the holes the crossmember bolt to. do you know how much EDM cost to do.
 

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ahhh ok, its in the chassis.....theres no way to edm that guy out. unless there are like..miniature portable EDM's that i'm unaware of. I'm not totally sure on the cost, but if I were doing something for someone...it would be pretty cheap (ie...if not a "real" shop job).

kurdain...an edm machine is a machine that discharges electrical pulses from one material through another...basically burning away one material from another. We (at our shop) mainly use pieces of graphite to put intricate\small details into steel where it isn't very practical to spend the time machining the steel. (using a .010" end mill on graphite is much easier than on a piece of P20 or S7 steel).

You can remove bolts with it...the same way that we do when we brake taps (what....wait...i never break taps..haha) Instead of using graphite, I usually use a piece of brass tubing that is just under the smallest ID of a threaded hole. The brass tubing is put in a spinning head (glorified drill) that slowly spins the tubing while the tap (screw...whatever) is burned away. The spinning basically helps the materials wear away quicker.

Other options are the drills.....which sucks I know (try removing a broken carbide end mill from something with another carbide endmill......doesnt work great), but can make it happen. Try more heat? They sell mini oxy-acetylene torch kits that can heat up\expand the nut or whatever before the bolt, so it has some play to come out. Or there is the option of cutting out the area where the bolt is broken, and then welding in a new nut.

Dunno any other options...hth

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well 3 of the 4 bolts are still on. right now I'm trying diamond coated dermal bits. its working a little. there is still enough of the bolt sticking out to have a nut welded to it, but im not sure how much that will help as when there was alot more sticking out i had an easyout socket hammered on and even giving it a little flame just broke of about 10mm of bolt; now im left with 4-5mm left sticking out. i tried a flame but all that did was start a fire. it started burning all the pb blaster i sprayed on the bolt and some went into a small hole by the bolt and flames started coming out from there so. thats pretty scary i though my car was going to burst in flames, it did not stop smoking out the hole for 10min. any way if worst case scenario and there is no option left i can always weld the crossmember area where the bolt broke onto the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
a mechanic that i work with claims that if i brought the car in the shop and used the shops oxy tourch on the remaining 5mm of the bolt sticking out chances are it will break the bond and we can just vice it out. how well do oxy tourches work compared to propane hand held units? also is it bad to heat up the bolt being so close to the frame?
 

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Thats the problem with propane.....it wont heat up what you want to heat up quick enough to do the job. The oxy acetelyne will do the job as you need. Also, you imo would want to heat up the chassis where the bolt threads into...not the bolt. heating the bolt will cause the bolt to expand, making it more difficult to remove. Heating the nut\chassis will cause that to expand, leaving the bolt more room to get free. While I havent done this on that part of my MR2, I have on other areas (and on other parts of friends car....IE removing wheel bearing from hub and wahtnot) with no ill effects. hth

andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks.. im just scared of doing it on the part around the bolt because im afriad it might weaken it. also im not sure how much pb blaster went into that small hole next to the bolt. when i tried propane it caught on fire, hopefully that burn all the pb blaster. what would be the safest way to heat it up without starting a fire.
 

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rdyzz said:
thanks.. im just scared of doing it on the part around the bolt because im afriad it might weaken it. also im not sure how much pb blaster went into that small hole next to the bolt. when i tried propane it caught on fire, hopefully that burn all the pb blaster. what would be the safest way to heat it up without starting a fire.
Just heat up the area around the stuck bolt, keep a garden hose handy.
The guy at teh shop should be able to adjust the flame so it doesn't disperse out much and therefore greatly reduce chances of any real fire except from raw heating.
Heating works really well.
 
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