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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 92 Turbo with 155k miles on it. The car spools up like normal but it dosn't transfer to the power/thrust it did before. Also when I let off the throttle the boost gauge (i know its ______/inaccurate) but the needle falls REALLY slowly, takes 2-3 seconds for it to reach the bottom.

Is their something wrong with my stock BOV and or possible leaks in the plumbing from the turbo to the throttle body? The condition of the rubber hoses between the hard plumbing is poor, it has a "ballooning" affect where it is expanded between the hard lines. I really need to replace this, but could this explain the loss of power, and what's the reasoning for the slow boost needle?
 

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Well if it were a vacuum leak then u shouldn't gain much boost (your turbo would be a fan rather than a compressor), but an open BOV would cause the turbo to spin more freely and therefor the gauge would drop slower, maybe there is a leak because of the bov.
does it still hit the same boost levels it used to?
 

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I don't know about the bpv problem. Some things that happened with my high mile 2, first, the cats were so clogged, I could disconnect the boost controller and it would only hit 5 psi. Gutted them and everything changed. As for rubber, it's always safe to have a new one if you know what I mean. A buddy of mine had his long piece of rubber intercooler hose so worn out, when we revved the engine with the throttle body, you could see the hose collapse and open back up after you let off.

Also, get yourself and DIY pressure tester and fix all leaks. And for the love of all that is holy, get yourself a boost gauge.

Good luck man,

Sean
 

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Tune up, new cap, rotor, wires, plugs and see how that feels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm getting full boost (from the crappy gauge) and YES I WILL get a real gauge soon. Electronic or manual -anyone have good/bad experience with either and what brand?

I actually seem to be getting a little more boost than before, (a little over the top bar vs a little below (as before). Yet the needle is really slow to drop down.

Any link for the DIY pressure tester?

Of course gutting or replacing anything on the exhaust will dramatically help the car, but I think the problem more lies in the turbo plumbing or BOV than the exhaust side (since the recent change vs. a gradual change over 15 years. (ive had the car for a few months and ive noticed a change in recent days).

I already have a distributor cap, rotor,o-ring, spark plugs and wires, valve cover gasket, and will be changing engine and tranny fluids, we'll see but I REALLY need to change the plumbing silicone tubing and look more into that BOV,

any other ideas?
 

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get an electrical boost gauge those are by far better than the manual ones and you can change with a touch of a bottom... but as far as your boosting prob... did you ever get a chance to check out the the boost hoses... cause it sounds like that might be the prob along with a leak somewhere... but good luck and hopefully the car well be back up and running like it should be
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks you guys for your support/advice,

what boost hoses and vaccuum lines should I keep an eye out for? I'll check all the lines but are any known to crack/leak, what should I pay special attention to?
 

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mr2matt said:
the mechanical gauges (as far as autometer goes) have a far greater sweep, and offer a vacuum range as well. In my opinion, better, unless you going to a defi or something
I don't know what you mean by "far greater sweep." You can buy electrical gauges that have just as big of range as any of the mechanical ones.

Also, if you have a lot of electronics running along the inside of your car (stereo, EBC, gauges, etc etc) it sucks having vacuum line run that far of a distance. If you're the kind of person that works on your car a lot, there is a greater chance to pinch the line or cut it accidentally trying to hide it behind the metal body pieces, etc.

And to those who think the mechanical gauges are more accurate or "real time," I'd like to see real evidence. Boost has to inflate that 12 feet of vacuum line (because gas is compressable) you have running from the bay to your a-pillar. Electricity travels much faster, plus the shorter your vacuum line from vac source to the gauge box, the less chance of vacuum leaks.

Electronic gauges are far more expensive, but along with the perks of less vacuum line/boost leak headaches, you usually get some nice features as well - peak/hold/warning indicators.
 

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slickgq2 said:
get an electrical boost gauge those are by far better than the manual ones

That great OEM gauge is electrical! :)

Gauge performance is a function of the quality of the instrument. To say that either mechanicla or electric (electronic) is "better" is a false generalization.

bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have all of the parts and will install tomorrow, will let u know what happens afterwards.

The car was running really rich though, looking at the plugs and the exhaust pipes.

Hopefully all of this will help for a better burn/leaner
 
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