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Discussion Starter #1
I have an Autometer 2-1/16" Boost gauge and I haven't the slightest clue on where to tap it into the boost line (or is it called a vacuum line? Im new to this). I have a 93 USDM Turbo, can anyone recommend a spot for the tap, and visually show me where :laugh: thanks
 

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There are a few different places you can use. I placed a T at the factory boost pressure sensor vacuum line to "tap into" for my boost gauge. It's pretty accessible and requires minimal messing around.




In this pic, the arrow is pointing to the diag port, but the boost pressure sensor is the black thing immediately adjacent and you can see thee vac line coming off of it.



edit: that second image isn't showing up, so try this link
www.sopertek.co.uk/mr2/service/diagsport.jpg

Good luck!
 

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There are a few different places you can use. I placed a T at the factory boost pressure sensor vacuum line to "tap into" for my boost gauge. It's pretty accessible and requires minimal messing around.






Good luck!


love this pic, are there many differences between this and a gen3?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There are a few different places you can use. I placed a T at the factory boost pressure sensor vacuum line to "tap into" for my boost gauge. It's pretty accessible and requires minimal messing around.




In this pic, the arrow is pointing to the diag port, but the boost pressure sensor is the black thing immediately adjacent and you can see thee vac line coming off of it.



edit: that second image isn't showing up, so try this link
www.sopertek.co.uk/mr2/service/diagsport.jpg

Good luck!
Thanks for the first pic, but the second one isn't working even with the link.
 

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love this pic, are there many differences between this and a gen3?
There are a few things.

No EGR
No badge on the intake manifold
OEM Catch can
No AFM
Valve cover is different

I could keep adding to the list but this covers the main things you'd see in the photo if you compared them.
 

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There are a few things.

No EGR
No badge on the intake manifold
OEM Catch can
No AFM
Valve cover is different

I could keep adding to the list but this covers the main things you'd see in the photo if you compared them.

what does the stock catch can look like, where is it located?
 

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Yeah that picture is super helpful to get oriented to the MR2/3SGTE

Here is another attempt at that second photo, but really, just go to your car, find the boost pressure sensor and look for the vac line that plugs into the bottom of it. Remember the arrow is just next to the sensor and is pointing to the diagnostic port.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah that picture is super helpful to get oriented to the MR2/3SGTE

Here is another attempt at that second photo, but really, just go to your car, find the boost pressure sensor and look for the vac line that plugs into the bottom of it. Remember the arrow is just next to the sensor and is pointing to the diagnostic port.
so basically tap into that black tube that is going downward?
 

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Yeah that picture is super helpful to get oriented to the MR2/3SGTE

Here is another attempt at that second photo, but really, just go to your car, find the boost pressure sensor and look for the vac line that plugs into the bottom of it. Remember the arrow is just next to the sensor and is pointing to the diagnostic port.
so basically tap into that black tube that is going downward?
Yep
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah that picture is super helpful to get oriented to the MR2/3SGTE

Here is another attempt at that second photo, but really, just go to your car, find the boost pressure sensor and look for the vac line that plugs into the bottom of it. Remember the arrow is just next to the sensor and is pointing to the diagnostic port.
so basically tap into that black tube that is going downward?
Yep
So funny enough I checked mine and it already has a tap and a tube coming out of it around the wall of the engine bay into my fire wall lol. Is this for the dash boost gauge? Or am I missing out on something here? The first pic shows the tapped hose, and the second shows the little hose running through the fire wall grommet.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update I pulled the carpet back and found the tube, it goes along the floor almost to the dash and is plugged with a screw that is ziptied.. Lol. Ill attatch a picture, but im guessing this is where I connect the gauge to?
 

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Update I pulled the carpet back and found the tube, it goes along the floor almost to the dash and is plugged with a screw that is ziptied.. Lol. Ill attatch a picture, but im guessing this is where I connect the gauge to?
Yip. That's where it needs to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Update I pulled the carpet back and found the tube, it goes along the floor almost to the dash and is plugged with a screw that is ziptied.. Lol. Ill attatch a picture, but im guessing this is where I connect the gauge to?
Yip. That's where it needs to go.
Thank you so much for helping, I just need some advice on how to connect it now. Attached below is a comparison of the two tubes that I need to connect. On the car I think its a regular 1/8 tube (black), and I think my gauge has a 1/16 tube (clear). Any adapters for this? How would I connect them?
 

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Thank you so much for helping, I just need some advice on how to connect it now. Attached below is a comparison of the two tubes that I need to connect. On the car I think its a regular 1/8 tube (black), and I think my gauge has a 1/16 tube (clear). Any adapters for this? How would I connect them?
Something like the first item in this link works. Barbed fitting with both ends. I'd suggest getting one to suit the larger rubber hose internal diameter and then heat the nylon hose in water to fit over the larger fitting. That way you won't get leaks.
Valley Industries Nylon and Polypropylene Hose Barb Fittings Valley Industries

Or find one that steps in size for the tubes. Like this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-16-to-1-8-2mm-4mm-Plastic-Straight-Union-Hose-Barb-Fitting-Connector-Reducer-/323483663185
 

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Yeah. I was gonna say if you have something tapped there that’s running to the cabin, someone’s been there before... that would likely be from a boost gauge or boost controller. Use that line.


Is it a hard line (I assume) or a vacuum line? You can go to any parts store (autozone etc) and they usually carry an array of fittings, caps, T’s etc. There are metal couplers I’ve used for the hard lines and that you may be able to find at a parts place or hardware store if you don’t know the exact size or want to see what it looks like in person vs ordering online.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good news after all the help I think I got it working almost perfectly
I just need help with the led now. Im just not sure if the gauge calibrated. It sits at 0 when the car is off, around 17 vac idle with AC on, 20 vac AC off (pics below) and im not sure if its the gauge, but when I can slightly hear my turbo start to spool it still reads around 5-10 vac, but once it spools up all the way to boost it hits around 10, im scared to hit over 10 because of my fuel cut i have yet to disable.. I feel like the gauge is very unresponsive ( maybe because it's a $50 mechanical gauge but i could be wrong) Does this sound like its calibrated correctly? Sorry this is my first turbo car. And now I just need to wire the gauges light so I can see the gauge at night, which I've seen videos of, but my light (attached below) has different wires from what videos have shown me. I'm not an electrician, any help with this last step?
 

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That actually sounds about right. My car reads -46 to -51 vacuum but I think it’s a different scale. If your fuel cut is working (ie not disabled or adjusted) then it’s okay if you go over 10psi and hit it. A check engine light will go off and the car will stutter for a moment. Then if you go into +boost again it will do the same. If you stay out of boost it will run normally. It will stay like this until you take the key out and restart the car.

As far as the light. There are a few places to tap into. An easy one is at the cigarette lighter. If you pull that center console out you will see how it’s powered. There may be a closer one to where you have your gauge mounted but that’s an easy one to find and use
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That actually sounds about right. My car reads -46 to -51 vacuum but I think it’s a different scale. If your fuel cut is working (ie not disabled or adjusted) then it’s okay if you go over 10psi and hit it. A check engine light will go off and the car will stutter for a moment. Then if you go into +boost again it will do the same. If you stay out of boost it will run normally. It will stay like this until you take the key out and restart the car.

As far as the light. There are a few places to tap into. An easy one is at the cigarette lighter. If you pull that center console out you will see how it’s powered. There may be a closer one to where you have your gauge mounted but that’s an easy one to find and use
perfect, thanks! Will update if I need anymore help!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update, I've nosed around online and couldn't really find anything to help me with the light wiring. I know I want to wire to a headlight on fuse (so that it only turns on when I also turn my headlights on), can I use a fuse piggyback for that? If so my wires are only a few inches long is there a way to buy dead wire that I can just splice on my wires to make them longer? Sorry if I sound dumb its because I am at these things but im learning!
 

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Update, I've nosed around online and couldn't really find anything to help me with the light wiring. I know I want to wire to a headlight on fuse (so that it only turns on when I also turn my headlights on), can I use a fuse piggyback for that? If so my wires are only a few inches long is there a way to buy dead wire that I can just splice on my wires to make them longer? Sorry if I sound dumb its because I am at these things but im learning!
There is a light for the cigarette lighter which turns on with the park lights/corner markers. If you tap into the wires there you will get power to this light for your gauge. You will need longer wires for this but not too hard to extend some.

You can twist and tape your new wires to the end of the gauge light wires. Maybe take a look at the 'NASA' spec for joining wires but not using solder. Should be reliable for this.
Taping into the cigarette lighter wiring is a bit different. I don't like the 3M style splice connectors as they can easily fail and ruin the wire you tap into but for you it might be the easiest way to join things .
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/1017582/
 
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