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Discussion Starter #1
Another dumb question...when I get my car itll be a 93 Turbo...completly stock...


I'll have 1500 to spend on mods alone....

Now assuming it has no mechanical problems.... what would be the best way to spend 1500 dollar max to get the fastest drag car....
 

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boost gauge - $50
MBC - $20
Downpipe - $250
Exhaust - $400
Intake - $150
Intercooler - $800

That will get you into the mid 13's and probably 240rwhp or so.
 

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well it all depends on your goals ...
perosnally, i'd begin with a stand-alone and then work my way up. however, that's just me. 93smgturbo seemed to give a good, fairly comprehensive plan!
 

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assuming that your engine is in good condition I would get:

-Greddy TD06SH kit ($1100 - 1500 used or new)

drop it in and you can expect high 12s - mid 13s on a completely stock car depending how much boost you adjust it to. Which is why I would suggest these other supporting mods:

-cheap used boost gauge (Autometer $20-50)
-AFM adapter ($5-10)
-Filter for AFM new or used ($10-50 I recommend one from here:http://www.intenseperformance.com/products/cone_filters/cone_filters.html )
Dont waste your money on big name intakes.

The td06 will give you tons of room for more power later on in the future if you want to upgrade even more. Creep will be minimalized with the stock exhaust system in place, but I wouldnt recommend boosting more than 13-15 psi on it.
 

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Don't forget that at higher power levels you'll be looking for a new clutch and rear tires in short order.

If it were my money, I'd go

intake - $30
MBC - $15
CT27 - $850
homemade a2w intercooler - $200
homewade water injection - $200
 

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Search the diy forum for "ace hardware intercooler". If you're willing to go ghetto, you can use copper tubing and ABS pipe to construct an intercooler core for very cheap.

I have one started but never finished it, having greater problems to worry about (failed engine, for starters).



You could use aluminum tubing as well if you were feeling opulent, copper has better heat conductivity but is more prone to oxidation. Also, if I ever finish it, the first connector would be high temp silicone instead of PVC, since PVC might have trouble w/ the heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input,.

Now that I think about it....I may just buy Fuel managament stuff reccommended on power primer.

Aswell as Greddy P/H/W for EGT and boost gauge.

Is there any datalogging software for the mr2, I searched for it cant find a lick.
 
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i would also go the use tdo6 route, with some water injection

although john s, was making 299hp on a 20b with waterinjection and a gredy ic...look on ebay and find a 20b for 500, find an intercooler 500-800 and build yourself a water injection kit

if this is all the money you ever plan to spend on mods, the 20b is the way to go from the street, but if you plan to go bigger and better, buy atleast the tdo6
 

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Discussion Starter #11
TerribleTo4E said:
i would also go the use tdo6 route, with some water injection

although john s, was making 299hp on a 20b with waterinjection and a gredy ic...look on ebay and find a 20b for 500, find an intercooler 500-800 and build yourself a water injection kit

if this is all the money you ever plan to spend on mods, the 20b is the way to go from the street, but if you plan to go bigger and better, buy atleast the tdo6


This is just for this summer....cuz im gonna make around 4200 this summer and I save everything besides 1500 for parts, Cuz I hafta pay m insurance for the year....so lets say this entire year ill be putting around 3500 in it.

So if i get the fuel stuff first When I get the kit itll be going right onw
 

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93smgturbo said:
boost gauge - $50
MBC - $20
Downpipe - $250
Exhaust - $400
Intake - $150
Intercooler - $800

That will get you into the mid 13's and probably 240rwhp or so.
Excellent list.
Also don't forget to do the tuneup stuff first: Plugs (NGK BKR7E's), OEM Wires, Cap, and Rotor. Also might want to do fuel filter.

-Scott
 

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Sleeperneon said in his original post, "Now assuming it has no mechanical problems". So I assumed those things would be taken care of, but yes those need to be paid close attention to first.
 

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I think 240rwhp on those mods is alofty goal. After doing some modding and seeing some cars with a TD06 setup, I would venture to say with those mods:

boost gauge - $50
MBC - $20
Downpipe - $250
Exhaust - $400
Intake - $150
Intercooler - $800

you are lucky to put 220 RWHP.

Just think about it, the car put down 165 hp and 165 torque at the wheels stock. With just bolt ons and the sucky ct26, 240 is a damn lofty goal.

Scott Shultz, a guy from the local club put down 243 with a upgraded ct26 and a Nemesis ECU. THATS TUNNED. (i think he had full exhaust and greddy ic too) 240 RWP is alot guys! ~Correct me if am wrong Scott.

Also, what exhaust are you gonna buy for 400? 600 is more likely on the low side.

~Vu
 

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getting a custom exhaust made for under 400 isnt an issue, i got one for under than from Chico Race Works, full 3" no cats.

best bet is to hit up the parts for sale section, find some of the stuff used to save yourself some money.

when do you plan on getting the car?

garrett
 

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For the fastest DRAG car:

Apexi Intake - 130
Boost Gauge - 60
Boost Controller - 50
Downpipe - 250
Exhaust- 400
NITROUS EXPRESS IMPORT EFI KIT - 550

Expect 12's and close to 300rwhp on the juice. And yes, your stock engine/ fuel system will take it perfectly. Come see us in the Nitrous Section for more info.

This will be faster that anything listed above.
 

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You need to find your ulitmate power goal first. Then SEARCH for the best parts that will make your "plan" work. If you are planning on keeping your stock ct26 forever and ever, then follow the lists above. If you are planning to upgrade the turbo, then i would buy that first with your 1500 dollars. It is very easy to blow 1500 dollars on little crap and you will find it waaay harder to save up that 1500 dollars again to buy a turbo kit down the line. If you are planning on upgrading the turbo, then do NOT buy a ct26 downpipe for the time being. You will only be losing money in the long run and only gaining a tiny bit of power vs a gutted stock DP. See where im going with this? Im just trying to save you some money.

You could make more power on a BONE stock motor with a td06 or t3t4 kit than you would with all those little bolton parts with the stock turbo.

the few things that EVERY modded turbo car needs is a good exhaust, upgraded IC, and EBC. Those things dont need to be changed out ever. So, those are the things i would reccommend buying first if you dont go ahead and buy the turbo kit.
 

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Hey, Your advice was really good. You made some great points and backed it up with valid info. Maybe add in a link to something that he could check out.
 
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