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Discussion Starter #1
okay.. first of all, my alternator belt has been acting up, and secondly, the oil light is not working since the swap.

the battery gauge worked, and upon rpm increase, the gauge went all the way up, flutuating.
but now, no sign of needle fluctuation, just sits right at the middle once the car is started. the pulley on the alt. is spinning, and the battery light does not come on. finally, my turbo timer reads the current and increase the time that it idles amount of voltage it registered (or something like that) and the time on the timer is not increasing.

so the questions:
1. is my alt. bad?
2. is my regulator bad?
3. are there any fuse associated w/ the alt that controls the gauge?
4. how do i get my engine oil light working again?
5. is my gauge just broken?
6. how do i check the voltage coming out from the alt? and at what level is norm?
7. i had non ps mr2, and the rear clip had the ps esgte, will this affect the electrical system?

thanks in advance
 

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i would say your regulator is starting to die if your getting fluctuations....the oil light will stay on if there is any issue with your alt system (learned that from my past alt diing and my old belt that just went on me)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well my oil light doesn't come on.. i think its either broken or not connected right when i did my swap over the summer.

the batt. gauge needle right now is sitting right at the middle of the gauge, and i see that the alt. pulley is turning and what not, but the needle doesn't go up or down. the batt. light isn't on, and i feel like i'm running on battery, but i've been driving for few days and it still runs fine.

i checked the fuse box in the frunk and on engine bay, and the fuses are fine. are there anymore fusebox perhaps underneath the steering column that controls the charging?

also, how can i found out if my alt. is charging or not by using volt meter? ie where to hook up neg and pos terminal?

thanks..
 

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Ok try this then:
Test 1: Turn on car with lights on (stereo and gauge lights on as well)....face a wall at idle watch your lights...then rev the engine a bit.
At this point the lights should brighten due to the increase in voltage from the alt (not that much but just a bit)
Test 2: Since test 1 is just basic here is another simple one that will tell you forsure if your alt is charging.
Measure the voltage with a multimeter with engine OFF and everything off. should be around 11.8-12.4volts (12.8with my optima).
Now turn on engine with lights and stuff off. Read the voltmeter again and it should be reading at least 13.3volts to 14.6ish (is the norm).
If it does not increase then there is no power coming from the alt.\

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
weasy2k:
1. the light doesn't get brighten.
2. voltage meter shows 12V on or off.
3. my car just stalled, got new batt. and samething.

now, i had my car on, and took out the positive (red) terminal off of the battery, and the car still runs.. on the way to walmart to get replacement battery, all the light was turned off but engine still running fine. i parked my car, turned the car off, and the car idled for 2 sec and shut down by itself (turbo timer set at 1 min).

so the alternator is running the car, but not charging the battery.
what could be wrong? i checked the fuses, and they're all fine.

what happens if the regulator in the alt. goes bad? will it not charge?

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah.. i got the new battery, took out the alt. i'll be getting new alt. tomorrow and stick it in there.. hopefully this would rectify all my problems..
 
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