Here is a physical comparison between the stock LH exhaust CAM (top) and the Kelford 263-EZP (bottom):
Stock(left) versus Kelford (right)
The following is a brief summarization and practical application of me following the 2GRFE service manual, please do your own research before attempting. This is my first time working on internal engine components or timing, so any tips or practical expedients are welcome
• Remove any peripheral items (alternator, belt, brackets, etc.)
• Remove valve covers
• Remove Lower and Upper Oil Pans
• Remove Thermostat Housing
• Remove Timing Cover
• Remove Timing Gears
• Remove Bearing Caps
• Remove Camshafts
• Remove Camshaft cradle/housing
Remove the valve covers:
I did this earlier when painting them, so this was breeze the second time around. Really it's just all of the bolts on the outside edge and one bolt in the middle of each cover. Just remember to remove and replace the three oil seals on each cover.
Remove the lower and upper oil pans.
This must be done because the oil pickup is attached to the timing cover, as well as a stud protruding from the bottom of the cover into the upper oil pan. The hardest part is prying off the pans, a razer helps to cut the seal as you go. FYI - flip the engine over slowly while attached to a hoist or something, so it doesn't rapidly fall. Oil and coolant will come pouring out when you flip over the engine.
Remove all the components from the timing cover.
• Thermostat Housing
• Idler Pulley
• Tensioner (several bolts from the side)
• Water pump pulley (I had to zip off with an impact gun)
• Crank Pulley (need a puller), set at TDC (0) before removing.
• Several bolts
• Water pump
• The square timing chain tensioner cover.
Pry off timing cover:
Got sick of using plastic bags for bolt tracking, so took an idea from my son's matchbox car storage/tackle box.
Remove Timing Chain:
Set to crank to TDC. Also check the timing gear marks and align per manual (if they do not, turn the crank 360 degrees and check again). I then took a million pictures to make sure I had a solid reference when putting it back together.
To remove the chain, first remove the tensioner or follow the procedure in the manual. I could not get the tensioner lock to move, so I just removed it. Next, the manual instructs to turn the crankshaft 10 degrees counterclockwise. This loosens the chain, and you can slip it off the crank. To remove it from the cam gears, turn the B1 (RH) exhaust cam gear clockwise until it loosens. Slip off the chain and reset everything to TDC as shown above.
Remove the camshafts:
Stick a small pin into the cam gear chain tensioner, and remove the 17mm bolts while holding the camshaft with a wrench. Easier said than done, they are torqued to around 75ft lbs. I just kept the chain on the gears, one less thing to worry about later. Also remove the 12mm bolt and cam gear tensioner.
Ensure knock pins are aligned on cams, and then loosen the cam bearing caps in the order prescribed in the manual for each bank.
Bank 1 (RH):
Bank 2 (LH):
If you weren't tracking bolts before, now would be the time to do so. Reading ahead, when you replace the camshafts/housing, you only have a few minutes to do so while the new FIPG seal cures. Last thing I want to be doing is figuring out what bolt went where, or is missing.
We have camshafts!
Lastly, pry off the camshaft cradle from the heads with a taped flathead screwdriver. You are left with this, and the unpleasant realization that you have to scrap off the old FIPG without clogging the head with debris. EDIT: as merryfrankster pointed out, taking the cradles off is completely unnecessary unless you are replacing the springs. Sure it's a bit easier to reinstall the camshafts, but having to scrap off the FIPG and reseal is 10x more work.
Kelford's mocked up in the cradle:
Will post the install once I get both sides done and back in.