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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I posted in the superbowl thread, my car died and I discovered that the alternator belt was missing. After putting it up on ramps, I got underneath trying to inspect the pulley. I was happy to see that I could easily turn the alternator pulley. I was unhappy to see that the alternator was only attached by a single bolt.

Does anybody know off hand what size bolts are used to secure the alternator? I'm missing the one closest to the firewall.
 

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top or bottom sport? well you logged off call me when you get up i have the deminsions on mine but it is a 93 turbo (late 92 build) but ill be up all day i have to help my brother with his alternator on a ford probe .... bad season for alternators i think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bill, glad to hear that you are up and running. For any others who were wondering, I should be back in commision soon. Went by Beaman Toyota today and ordered a new alternator bolt...also checked with the service department to see if the A/C and steering wheel recalls for 1991 models had been performed. A/C expansion valve had been replaced, but I'll be getting a brand new steering wheel courtesy of Toyota! If you have a 1991 and you're not the original owner, check to see if you are eligible for this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
The following is kind of long:

Since I looked and couldn't find it all in one place, here's a rundown of how to replace an alternator belt or an A/C belt on a 3SGTE:

If you're going to remove the alternator, be sure to disconnect your battery first.

Step 1) buy a lift. This will save you some backache. I didn't do this step. I did, however, put the rear on ramps.

For anyone who doesn't know, the alternator is on the right side of the engine bay pretty much directly below the oil filler cap. The belt goes from the alternator to the double channeled main pulley. The main pulley is forward and lower than the alternator. If you have A/C, the compressor pulley is right next to the main pulley. The smaller pulley above these two is the A/C belt tensioner. (I have read several threads that describe how potentially difficult removing the alternator is. I didn't completely remove the alternator here.)

The a/c belt is the outermost belt on the main pulley. You must remove this in order to install the alternator belt. To remove the a/c belt, loosen the tensioner pulley nut (14mm wrench), but DON'T REMOVE IT. Just a couple of partial turns should do. I did this from below the car, but it looks possible to do it from above if you have a long wrench and skinny arms. The intercooler prevented me from using a socket, if you don't have an IC in the stock location, you may have a little more room. Now you can loosen the tensioner bolt from the top of the engine bay (also 14mm.) This bolt is right above the pulley (about even with the middle of the stock IC). I removed the IC hoses to reach this more easily, but you may not have to.

Having fun yet? If you have gotten this far, go eat some girlscout cookies and use the bathroom. If you're like me, you're about to spend some time on your back. By the way, a shop light or lighted gloves will come in handy here. Also, I don't want to see any of you in my office to remove junk from your eyes when it falls all over your face repeatedly. Wear eye protection. OK, back to the job.

Now that the a/c pulley can be detensioned, you should be able to slide the a/c belt off pretty easily. The alternator (mine is a Turbo with power steering, there may be slight differences on non-ps cars or on NA) is held by two bolts. The bolt nearest the front of the car was missing on my setup (which I presume is how the alternator came loose and I lost the belt). ***It seems that this bolt might need to be removed anyway to get enough slack to install the alt belt, but someone correct me otherwise.*** It is relatively easily accessible by lying on your back, with your feet sticking out under the back of the car and your head close to the passenger rear wheel. Put your right hand up next to the stock exhaust pipe (before the muffler)and reach back to your left. There's actually a decent amount of space here. Remove the long alt bolt ( I don't know the dimensions of this bolt since mine is gone.) *Update: the Long alternator bolt is a 14mm and is installed from the pulley side of the alternator* I used an allen wrench to put through the hole to hold the alternator up an extra 1/4 inch, or so.

Now, you will need to loosen the alternator tension bolt. This is a long thin bolt on the U-shaped alternator bracket. I was able to loosen this by hand by reaching up behind the alt. This one is a really uncomfortable one to reach. It may be possible to reach from above, but I stayed under the car for this. You can use a 12mm socket if necessary. It's probably best to keep from removing this bolt. I had to loosen it almost all the way, however, before there was enough slack to get the belt on.

Once I got the belt *mostly* onto the alt pulley and all the way on the main pulley, I use a 14mm wrench on the main pulley nut to turn the main pulley clockwise a quarter turn or so to work the belt completely on.

Hooray! now make sure both the alt and a/c belts are aligned properly. Once they are, reverse what you did before:

Reattach the long alternator bolt if you removed it (or didn't have it at all, in my case)
Retighten alternator tensioner bolt.
Retighten a/c pulley tensioner bolt from above.
Retighten a/c pulley. (be sure to tighten the tensioner bolt FIRST)

Reconnect battery.

Have another cookie and in my case, an adult beverage.

Expect to get dirty. I'm not quite lilly-white, but I looked like Vijay Singh when I was done. Take a shower.

I tried to overexplain some steps here to help anybody who is completely new to this. Please point out any errors that you're aware of, or add any tips!

Hope it helps someone

-Hasselhoff
 

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that bolt takes a minumum of 3 days to get in i just had to wait for it myself they can get hte lower bolt and hte tensioner bolt in in one day but it took all weekend to get my top bolt

i hope it gets in quick, i am ansie to see another mr2 on the road.
 

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I have 2 helpfull hints from having gone throught this myself .... one if your going in from the top, remove the ic tubing and the diagnosis box these will give you immence room to work from the top, if your doing belts it can be done from the top for most of it. hint number 2 if you have a lift that isnt from the tires or if you can jack your car up from lift points it gives amazing room to have the springs decompressed. now in my case i had to remove the alt all together and quite frankly it was well worth what i paid nielsandler to do it for me 541.00 for all belts replaced all bolts ordered and replaced a new alt. and the tow bill up there. now if only i had been bright enough to do that a month ago i could have already gotten used to how Elaine twists her hips. ?)
 

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thanks for the tips, i think i'm gonna change my belts before NA2005, and i'm getting a new GReady intercooler, so i'll just do it all at once to make things easier.
 

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so any of you incredibly smart guys know an easy way to see if the compressor will kick on without freon...as in where can i jump something besides the magnetic clutch relay to see if the clutch will kick in..i say besides the clutch relay cause i can't freakin' find it behind the instrument cluster
 

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the ac relay is behind the glove box, and no, the compressor will not activate without the freon pressure in the system.
 

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smokeydriver said:
so any of you incredibly smart guys know an easy way to see if the compressor will kick on without freon...as in where can i jump something besides the magnetic clutch relay to see if the clutch will kick in..i say besides the clutch relay cause i can't freakin' find it behind the instrument cluster
You can always just unplug it at the compressor and jump it off there.
 

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yeah...i can't even see the darn wires leading to the compressor...if i did see them, i can check for power at the connector...and check for resistance on the compressor side to see if the clutch coil's working
 

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Hasselhoff,

I just tried to change my belt yesterday...I spent hours of trying to struggle and loosen that darn AC pulley tensioner bolt to no avail. Its in such an awkward position and the bolt would not budge much no matter what I tried. I decided my only option was to cut the ac belt completely. But before I did that I wanted to double check the alternator. I went to go check..and low and behold, the pivot bolt (bolt closest to the ground) on the alternator was missing. I believe this is the same bolt you were missing on your car. Do you happen to have a part number?

Thanks,
Terry
 

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m10 1.25 pitch about 40 or 45 mm long should do it. if it is the bolt i am thinking of.

a buck or so at any hardware store even for grade 8.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I would trust rotorhead's judgement on this one, but I do happen to have the number: 90080-10113 cost me $1.75 at the dealer, I think.


edit: M-10 1.25 100mm from Lowe's worked for me on a different occasion
 

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update...

I went ahead and bought a m10 1.25 pitch about 40mm bolt and I tried to insert it into the hole. It would go in about half an inch before it stops going in any further, no matter how many times I am turning the bolt. It seems like there is some obtrusion in there.

Any ideas to remedy the situation?
 

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i am sorry man, most of that stuff is m10. that was just a guess off the top of my head.

it is possible that the old bolt is broken off in there. that would explain the symptoms.

send me a bill for the bogus bolt. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
the bolt should only have threads on the first half inch or so, though the barrel of the bolt is maybe 4 inches long. The bracket has threads on each end, but nothing in the middle where the alternator fits in. You have to shove the bolt through until you reach the other set of threads. I had to use a lever (a handheld weed puller about a foot long) placed against the strut tower, I think, and shove the bolt. a long screwdriver might work, or any thin sturdy piece of metal...I also had a small block of 2x4 that I used as a fulcrum. Worked like a charm.

Here's a charming Word drawing to help you visualize... I left out all of the blood from my knuckles.
 

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thanks for the replies. I think rotorhead is right, seems like that the old bolt is broken off in there. I should probably just replace the whole damn alternator anyway.
 
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