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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have the specs? I took my car to sears and they just basically "made" up the specs for it. They said the system listed no specs for the rear. The car feel squirely and i would like to get it done right. Its pretty much a street car so stock specs are probably best.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I guesss the front has no camber adjustments and just toe right? The rear has both camber and toe. My car just feels kinda squirely though like i said..It has brand new tires and all suspension feels good. I do have tein s-tech springs on it so thats why i really wanted to get it aligned right so i dont go through tires.
 

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93smgturbo said:
For the 93 they recommend .25-.35 toe IN. Those specs blow. I recommend like .10-.15 toe IN.

How much difference does this make, im not too clued up in this area, but mine is going for tracking etc this weekend as i bent and replaced a few parts on the drivers side.

Regards

Graeme
 

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Graeme, Im not too sure cuz its like this. I had my car put to the factory specs right at .30 and my car was all over the place. I had them reset it to .12 and everything felt much better. Whats wierd is this goes against what technically should happen. So I can explain it, other than what worked for me. Technically, the closer you get to 0, your wheels are pointing like this | | . When you do toe IN, it looks like this / \ and is supposed to actually make the car more stable, although that is not what I personally found for the rears on our cars.

P.S. How do you pronounce your name?
Andrew M.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think you are talking a bout camber though... Toe is different. Looking from the back of the car and the wheels being like / \ would be negative camber.

Here is what toe looks like
 

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No just the back. The front I have at .05 toe-in. The camber is not adjustable in the front and Im not sure about the rear. Sorry.
 

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Thanks for the info mate, i know it has something to do with the wheels pulling themselves straight once they are moving, is this correct?

Name is pronounced almost the same as Graham, like grey-em as opposed to grey-ham lol if that sounds right

Graeme
 

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Im not sure what you mean Graeme. When you have the tires set closer to 0 or more straight forward then the wheels have a tendency to want to "track". Which is following the grooves in the road. Is this at all what you mean?
 

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Well my mate is a mechanic and was explaining it to me, he was saying its a final adjustment for play in the suspension setup, toe in or out is a the final adjustment from castor and camber so that the minute the car starts to move the wheels become perfectly straight.

He was trying to explain how changing springs (lowering) and wheels etc you need to know how to alter the settings to make the car drive true, he said alot of the time it doesnt make that much of a difference but if you want it perfect thats what you have to do.

Hes well clued up, its just i find it hard to understand it all when its not something ive really looked into.

Graeme
 

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Yeh its proper confusing, I just need some specs for mine, but not many people seem that clued up in that area, i think ill go for stock ones and see how it goes. I have polyurethane bushes, koni adjustables and H&R lowering springs with 17inch alloys, just try it and see i guess!

Graeme
 

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Check out these specs for the 93T.
http://web.mitsi.com/autocross/faq.html
This is for an autocross alignment, so it is a little agressive, but it will give you an idea of what it should be.

-Scott
 

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I have the following on my 94T.

Front
Camber: -1.8 degrees
Toe: 0

Rear
Camber: -1.0 degrees
Toe: .12-.15 toe in

If I remember correctly the rear of the car toes out slightly under acceleration. Therefore the slight toe in will point the tire straight under acceleration and still have the toe in for help in rotating the car in turns. I use the above for street only. I will be adding more negative camber once I get some Toyota Crash bolts installed.

Richard Williams
1994 Black MR2 Turbo
 
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