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Clunk under braking can be suspension. 4 piston aftermarket calipers do tend to be a tad noisier than lots of stock calipers, as the pads can slightly shift in the caliper (but you don't have to replace "spring clips" for the pads as a result). This is more something you hear with going forward, then reverse, then forward again though, and it's not very loud.

A noticeable clunk is probably a suspension bushing/ball joint. The light grinding sound is probably just the pads bedding in. They sound more like something riding on something else until they make really even contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Thanks for the insight DefSport, that makes a lot of sense. I didn't get to work on the car yesterday, but hopefully today I can get back out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Alright, bit of an update.

1. Brakes have been bedded.. and holy crap this thing can stop. The alignment is crap since I eye-balled it so under hard braking it pushes a bit, but let's just say my phone was in the seat next to me and that thing flung out and hit the dash hard.
2. No bad noises... whatever grinding/clunking I heard is now gone. I have new poly bushings up front, new tie rods (inner/outer) and ball joints. Initially I heard a few squeaks and was going to be annoyed if the poly bushings were that loud, but nothing on the last drive. Think they just needed to adjust a bit. I still need to swap out the sway bar bushings.
3. I love how this car feels. Since I bought the car a few weeks ago I haven't really been able to get on it because of the numerous issues all over the car. Well it is finally pretty solid (I mean I still have a list with 100 things on it) and what a blast it is to drive. The Gen2 is slow, but makes the right noises, and it is just fun. I have a 300hp Fiat 500 Abarth and it just feels too "modern" if that can even be said about a Fiat lol. I stomp on the throttle and it just pulls nicely and builds boost and I hear some cool noises.. but the MR2 is just raw. That beautiful 90s Japanese turbo car feel. Love it. I hope I never get used to it.
4. The shifter is still f'ed. I really need to dig in there and see why there is so much play. This much play should be obvious.
5. The clutch needs fixing per my last a few posts ago. Getting the shifting smooth and precise is high on the list.
6. I still need to install the rear geometry kit... like now. So I can get it aligned. Tomorrow for sure. Maybe today.

She is not perfect... but more than good enough for me.

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Discussion Starter #44
Another update. All good things.

I started the day finishing up Alex Wilhelm’s suspension geometry kit. I was able to set the alignment pretty good by eye, but it really, really needs an alignment.

I bled the rear brakes again. Everything feels good. I think I can finally check that off as done.
Feeling pretty good I decided to check out the shifter and why it felt like garbage. Embarrassed to say I left the 14mm bolt for the right shifter loose. Tightened that up and it was good to go.
Since things were going well I decided to push my luck and do the solid clevis kit. It basically replaces the connection on the end of the master clutch push rod and instead of a plastic housing for the pin it uses a bearing. I had to remove the master cylinder for the clutch to get the pedal off. It wasn’t too bad to do that. Then the pedal was out pretty quick. You have to drill a hole in the pedal, but that was quick. Took about 1.5 hours and it was all back in. I flushed the clutch fluid too.
All I can say is that the clutch feels fucking amazing how. Smooth. It use to engage almost off the floor. Now it engages where I like it best, which is like just before the halfway point. Can’t recommend this enough.
So yea that was basically everything. Need an alignment next.

sorry this is kind of poorly formatted. On my phone.
 

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I have no intention of bringing you down, turbo MR2 parts can be valuable and sometimes worth more individually (look up the value of turbo CV axles).

As for the shifter debate, I've had the original 91 and now currently a 93 so I can't give an opinion on others. I have read many times over on the forums about shifters, generally the 93+ is what everyone goes with, I even read an article about a MR2 today where the owner specifically swapped out a TRD for 93.

"Also on the topic of smooth shifting, the TRD Quickshifter that was installed by a previous owner had to go. I replaced it with an OEM shifter from a ’93 and up MR2. This one has a similar short throw but is much less notchy because of where the shifter cable attaches to it. Brass bushings from Speedsource also help to keep the cables moving smoothly."


What's really weird is I've never heard of a C's shifter for the MR2, I could be wrong about this but I don't think they ever made one for the SW20 I'd love to see some original advertisement. Hux racing and racerx have done some really cool shifters lately, check them out!
35 bucks ebay MR2 short shifter kit, while your in there might as well change out the cables.. under 100 total is what I paid. The short throw works well for performance or daily driver. I really like the feel. But that is just my opinion...
 

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Discussion Starter #46
There are plenty of horror stories about ebay short shifter kits, enough so that I wouldn't want to risk it. Not saying there aren't decent ones out there, but I'd prefer to spend a bit more for something I know will be good. The Super Klasse C's shifter is not exactly cheap, but for something that impacts the feel and drivability of the car, I wouldn't want to cheap out on it. You got shifter cables for under $100? I'm curious to know from where. The MR2 Heaven ones are $135 and seemed to be the closest to OEM quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Using this post to reorganize my lists

Completed
  • Silcone IC Hoses - Replaced the worn ones
  • Brakes - Wilhelm Raceworks BBK Wilwood Kit Front & Rear
  • Apexi Intake - Installed
  • MR2Heaven Shifter Cables - Installed
  • Fortune Coilovers - Installed - Need to finalize adjustments to height once it settles
  • Suspension Overhaul - New Inner/Outter Tie Rods, Toyota ball joints, all new bushings, new sway bar links
  • MR2Heaven Throttle Cable
  • Solid Roller Clutch Pedal Clevis Kit - Best mod so far... couldn't believe the feeling
  • Cluster - Swapped over the NA cluster... the RPM gauge has a different redline.. This will do until I swap it over again down the road
  • Removed HIDs
  • Removed Sound System
  • Removed Keyless Entry
  • Removed Fog Lights
  • Fixed Front Lip (short term fix)
  • New e-brake cables with the BBK and adjusted
  • Flushed and bled clutch and brakes
  • Wilhelm Raceworks Suspension Geometry Kit
  • Wilhelm Raceworks adjustable strut rods with 93+ strut rod brackets
To-Do
  • Set ride height
  • Alignment Alignment Alignment! (seriously)
  • TCS Motorsports Intercooler Kit
  • ST Sway Bars F+R
  • New Fog Lights - Need to drill and tap one of the fog light mount holes, PO had used a nut and bolt since it was stripped
  • Clean and install all underbody plastic
  • Install wheel well liners
  • Install battery mount
  • Water neck
  • Coolant hoses
  • Tune-Up: Plugs, wires, dizzy + verify timing, oil + filter
  • Consider A/C options. I think it is r12, not sure if there is any charge. But will need A/C big time this summer
  • RacerX Catch Can
  • New pedal covers - Current ones worn smooth
  • Hydraulic hood & engine prop
  • Full Silcone Intake (replacing the MR2Heaven one as it only replaces the bottom part of the "S" tube)
  • Figure out where to mount boost gauge
Whew... most of the super urgent things have been addressed. The ride height and alignment are the biggest things now. After that it is mostly just quality of life stuff, except for maybe the tune up. There is definitely some oil seeping from somewhere as I get a drop or two after driving, so I'll need to tackle that at some point. However it isn't so much I'm extremely worried at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Well minor set back. The TCS Motorsports Intercooler Kit does not fit correctly. I really can't catch a break with these kits after the MR2 Heaven pipes were all messed up, and now this kit not fitting correctly. With the holidays I haven't really had much time to work on the MR2, but figured I'd throw the intercooler on today. Clearly not in the cards. Shoved some paper towels in all the empty holes and will wait for either a refund or new pipe. Hopefully it comes soon as I have an alignment scheduled for Monday that I would really hate to have to delay.
 

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Looking good, and seems you still are making good progress. Whats your feeling on the FA coilovers after driving them for a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Looking good, and seems you still are making good progress. Whats your feeling on the FA coilovers after driving them for a bit.
Honestly I don't know about how a really good suspension should feel to give useful feedback haha. However my butt says that it feels really good as a daily, and on my way to work there are some nice sweeping turns down a (small) mountain that felt really really good. It is definitely not harsh.

So Monday I got the alignment done. The shop had it for most of the day, but the alignment guy seemed really knowledgeable and I felt comfortable letting him do his thing. For good measure I had him check over all the suspension and make sure everything was tight and looked good. He did have a few notes that I'll need to address:
  1. The rear brake lines are kind of binding with how I have them positioned. I couldn't tell because I couldn't see the car with the suspension loaded, however he said there was a bit of stress on the rears and he would recommend moving the way they are positioned.
  2. The rear parking brake caliper has a long stud that almost hits the sway bar link. I noticed this too and thought there would be sufficient space. However I'll probably reach out to Alex W to see what he thinks.
The car feels amazing though and he had no issues getting everything adjusted and dialed in. I used the alignment settings that Alex W. suggested. I'll post might alignment print out later for anyone curious. Everything honestly feels so good and I am really happy to have the car in a good state right now (at least suspension wise).

I have been noticing that every time I park I get 3-4 drips of oil on the ground, which I hate since I park in my driveway and try to keep it clean. So I will need to figure out where that is coming from. It is on the timing belt side so I'm not super thrilled. I wish it was just the distributor or something.

I also have a bit of a squeal when I start the car from the belt area, and a light squeak coming from something after the car warms up (same area). I think maybe the alternator pulley may be causing the issue but I'll have to take a closer look, maybe it is seizing and the belt slips when cold but then catches and the bearing is squeaking. I can see that when I first start the car the alternator output is low, like it isn't working, but then once the squealing stops it starts generating. Who knows, either way I'll have to fix it as it is just annoying and I can't deal with that.


In other news my 2GR swap may be over before it started. Long list of reasons why I don't really want to go into right now. If that happens I may just scrap the project for now and keep the 5SFE in it and get it running again and try again next year. I hate having it just sitting in the garage and having to work on the turbo in the driveway.
 

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Another update. All good things.

I started the day finishing up Alex Wilhelm’s suspension geometry kit. I was able to set the alignment pretty good by eye, but it really, really needs an alignment.

I bled the rear brakes again. Everything feels good. I think I can finally check that off as done.
Feeling pretty good I decided to check out the shifter and why it felt like garbage. Embarrassed to say I left the 14mm bolt for the right shifter loose. Tightened that up and it was good to go.
Since things were going well I decided to push my luck and do the solid clevis kit. It basically replaces the connection on the end of the master clutch push rod and instead of a plastic housing for the pin it uses a bearing. I had to remove the master cylinder for the clutch to get the pedal off. It wasn’t too bad to do that. Then the pedal was out pretty quick. You have to drill a hole in the pedal, but that was quick. Took about 1.5 hours and it was all back in. I flushed the clutch fluid too.
All I can say is that the clutch feels fucking amazing how. Smooth. It use to engage almost off the floor. Now it engages where I like it best, which is like just before the halfway point. Can’t recommend this enough.
So yea that was basically everything. Need an alignment next.

sorry this is kind of poorly formatted. On my phone.
How much wear did the clutch pedal/clevis have?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
How much wear did the clutch pedal/clevis have?
The clevis pin has sort of a plastic sleeve on it from stock... it was worn to almost nothing. The pin itself was clearly worn when I was under there I could feel quite a bit of play. I also had a squeaky pedal which really really gets old fast. Honestly still my favorite modification to date. Drilling out the hole in the clutch pedal and getting the new bearing in there is pretty easy if you can contort your body in the right ways to get the pedal out in the first place. I couldn't get the pedal out without removing the clutch master cylinder so that was also a bit of a pain. I just drained the clutch fluid and removed the master cylinder altogether since I was going to bleed the system anyways. There was a 1/4" of nasty junk at the bottom of the reservoir I was happy to clean out too.
 

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I have been noticing that every time I park I get 3-4 drips of oil on the ground, which I hate since I park in my driveway and try to keep it clean. So I will need to figure out where that is coming from. It is on the timing belt side so I'm not super thrilled. I wish it was just the distributor or something.
Oil leaks tend to be from the 1) valve cover 2) Distributor - internal seal gets hard and then oil gets through and follows the wiring often times eating through the pigtail connection. 3) oil filter area 4) oil pump seals have gone bad.

Don't forget to put a seal on intercooler where it meets the body otherwise the air will just bleed around it.
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Discussion Starter #54
Hmm I definitely did not put a seal like that on the IC. Although when I look up into it from the side vent, it is so tight against it I can't imagine any air going around it. I have to pull it all out again to fix the dang wire from the AC compressor that broke while disconnecting it so I could fit everything in, so maybe I'll see about a seal like that (might have to be a bit thinner). I definitely can't add anything that will push the inter-cooler more inward, as the piping will be even more off from the turbo. I think TCS sent me a new hot pipe though, I sent them an email about it, and got a notice that something was shipped by them, but they never let me know.
 

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That seal was just something I bought at AutoZone. I cut across the top of it so it'd compress against the intercooler easier. As you can see in the pic above the tabs sit about a quarter to half inch and if you multiply that by the distance around the core it's quite a bit of space. You want the air to pressurize on the intercooler surface so it's forced through the veins into the engine compartment. If you're moving at a good clip there's enough air moving around the engine that the air temp sensor wont turn on the intercooler fan. At least that's what I found with my car. You can stick your hand up into the side vent and feel for the gap if you've still got it mounted in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I’ll definitely take a look. I had thought about a seal just because of the metal on metal contact potentially making some noise. I’m trying something a bit different too but I’ll post when I’m done if I like the results
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Well my idle took a **** last week and it was dropping so low it would stutter and die. I had to constantly blip the throttle and manually control the idle to keep it from dying. Crazy how fast it went from fine to terrible. Took only a few days. So I ordered the C810 cap and replaced it today. Now the idle is perfect again. The cap looked fine too.

I have all the caps to replace the other ones too, but I wanted to make sure this one specifically would fix the issue. It fixed off idle issues as well, there use to be a bit of hesitation with light throttle around 3k, which has disappeared. I'll get in and replace the others eventually, but we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Okay time to get back on track. Unfortunately I have some major life changing news the other week (all is good) so I am going to have to make a few sacrifices. I will most likely be selling my house in the next 6-8 months and may be moving across the country in the next 1-1.5 years. Still a lot up in the air, but I need to focus on getting the MR2 in the best shape possible, and figuring out what to do with my disassembled failed 2GR project. I'd rather not part it out, as I love having lots of spares and I'd hate to either junk or sell the shell for cheap as it is in great shape and I know I'll eventually buy another. I'll probably be making a separate post seeing what people think I should do, so I'll refocus on the turbo MR2 for now. Here is my current todo:

  • TCS Motorsports Intercooler Kit - Have to try the new hot side pipe that TCS sent me to see if it fits
  • Intercooler Adjustment
  • ST Sway Bars F+R
  • New Fog Lights - Need to drill and tap one of the fog light mount holes, PO had used a nut and bolt since it was stripped
  • Clean and install all underbody plastic
  • Install wheel well liners
  • Install battery mount
  • Oil Change
  • Consider A/C options. I think it is r12, not sure if there is any charge. But will need A/C big time this summer
  • New pedal covers - Current ones badly worn and have a replacement
  • Hydraulic hood & engine prop - Have them just need to install
  • Figure out where to mount boost gauge
I need to make a decisions on either doing a GEN4 swap now, or hoping the engine holds for at least a year, maybe two.
 

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I would think if you have the proper supporting mods and engine management, the gen2 should last for quite some time. Seems everyone likes to jump ship to the gen4 really fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I would think if you have the proper supporting mods and engine management, the gen2 should last for quite some time. Seems everyone likes to jump ship to the gen4 really fast.
Well I plan to stick with stock boost and basically stock power. My goal is reliability. However the engine feels weak. When boost comes on I don't really feel much extra power. As far as I can tell everything looks fine, no vacuum leaks, no major oil leaks. As mentioned in another thread, I do have some moisture under the oil cap, and it smokes a bit during a cold start.

If I can feel pretty good about keeping the GEN2 then that is ideal. I don't really want to do an engine swap anytime soon. I am leaning towards just making sure everything else is in good order and hoping the engine holds. I might do a compression test to make sure there isn't any obvious failure already.
 
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