MR2 Owners Club Forum banner

21 - 40 of 98 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I got lucky? that my car was being used as a shelf in a garage during the F&F era, instead of being messed with. yours still doesnt look too terrible. at least the cut chunk is behind the seat and can either be re-patched in or modified for a new sub box or something. those stupid vampire T-Tap plugs are horrendous and should almost never be used on anything, but I swear if found them on nearly every car Ive owned. Overall still looks decent. Id still rather deal with the small issues you have there than with the corrosion we get in the rust belt part of the country.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I was happy to find no major rust on this car. It has the standard surface rust, but nothing in the usual spots.

Here is a video of the shifter... a lot to unpack here haha. The shifter cup is completely useless and it is missing an entire bolt from the shifter assembly. This is IN first gear:

Here is the new intake, the main thing is that it is firmly in place. Only a temporary solution, but it has bought me time until I can remove the AFM completely. Oh I also blocked off the BOV, just trying to clean up the bay a bit and the new IC piping won't have mount for one.
68659


I have a heat shield for the turbo on the way, which will help a ton.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Nice write up. We are pretty much on the same boat. My Fortune 500 coilovers with swift will be here in a few weeks. And I just replaced all the bushes and ball joints, the car feels really solid and responsive. For C’s shifter I would say u can go wrong with it, I also ordered their 3D print cup to eliminate the extra play.

BTW, I already installed the suspension kit from Wilhemraceworks, it helps for the camber curve but I still got really bad bump steer issue upfront, my steering wheel is all over the place on the bumpy road, not sure if it caused by crappy Magen racing coilovers, but we will see how it behavior on FA coilovers later on.
68660
68661
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Today I got a lot of work done, I'll list it out and get some photos up.

I finished the throttle cable install. The cable I got from MR2 Heaven I think may have an issue. The little push in plastic part that connects to the gas pedal seems too small. It will just fall out of the throttle assembly. However once I had the whole cable in place, the tension from the cable seems to hold it in place. I got really crazy pushing the pedal in and out over and over and it seems fine. I'm a bit worried but going to see how it works around town for a few days.
68664



I finished pulling out the viper alarm system and the sound system wires. Then I started to put the interior back together. It looks super clean and I love having it back to OEM standards. I did notice that the engine lid release cable was on its last leg, the plastic piece that hold the cable in place had broken. So of course I had to replace that. I was able to do that pretty quick though as it is one of the easier ones to replace.

Since I had the interior out I decided to swap the shifter cables. Those little C clips are a pain but I found them to be pretty easy to remove once I got under the car. I put in two new shifter cables from MR2 Heaven. They seemed pretty good, maybe not OEM quality but overall an improvement over the 28 year old ones in there.
68665


68666


I decided to also just use the 93+ shifter with a new shifter cup instead of waiting for the RacerX and Super Klasse setup. I'll be back in there for some other things soon so I'll just swap them out then. It is pretty easy to get in there.
68668


I also installed my MR2 Heaven shifter surround and realized as I was installing the arm rest that I put the cloth on wrong. So I'll need to pull it out and reinstall that too. But it isn't too bad so I'll wait until I swap the shifter to do that.
68669


The slider on the seat and broken so only one side was disengaging the lock. I fixed the wire and got it working perfectly before swapping it back in. Over all the interior is looking great now. I didn't put the horn back on the steering wheel yet because I may need to adjust it before bolting it down for good and it uses these little rubber/plastic push in things that look like they may break soon. So I don't want to be removing and installing it a lot. Also the compartment behind the passenger seat is misaligned since I didn't put one of the tabs in correctly. I need to fix that but it will be quick.
68670

Believe it or not those two lids were from a blue interior MR2. I painted them black. I think they look fantastic.
68671


The cluster I swapped in from the non-turbo works great. The alternator gauge works fine so I'll just be using the AEM boost gauge instead. I'm not sure where I want to install that yet.
68672


Lastly, (I think) I installed a new e-brake cable. The old one had snapped and after install it I see why. The parking break cables are not adjusted correctly. I can pull up on the e-brake and engage the parking break, but it isn't adjusted to where it actually clicks and holds. Something is up. Luckily I have two new cables so I may just swap in those. The ones that were installed don't seem like they were meant for the car. However, it is nice to know I have an e-brake even if I can't engage it for parking.


I think that was everything I did today. There is no radio installed, and the ashtray (of course) is broken so I'll probably just get one of those covers instead since I don't really need it. Other than that, the interior is fully back together and looks, freaking, awesome.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
It wouldn't let me post all the photos (limit 10) so here are some of the e-brake:
68674


68675
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Well this morning was mostly the Fiat. I had to install some new fog and daytime running lights. I also pulled the AEM water injection kit from it so I can put back in the rear seats and put it up for sale.

Once that was done, it was back to the MR2. I was working up front to remove the HIDs and some extra wiring. I replaced the HIDs with Hella H4 lamps from twosrus. In my opinion they are much better looking on the car, and having the frunk cleaned up a bit makes me feel better.

68683


Muuuuuch cleaner.
68684


Out with the old
68685


In with the new!
68686


68687


68688


68689


68690
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
I also got the Intercooler kit from MR2 Heaven and I have to say I'm not really impressed. The Carbon Fiber IC tubing doesn't look right. I'm really sad about this as I was looking forward to throwing these on. There are a lot of sharp edges and what seems to be flaking. I don't really want to risk installing this, here are some photos:
68691


68692


68693
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
yikes, I wonder if there was a way you could thoroughly clean the inside of that pipe out. Last thing you need is carbon fiber ( or carbon threads) inside the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
I'll definitely be returning it, I really don't like the sharp edges sticking out as I think that will negatively impact the air flow. I'll probably go with one of the aluminum kits that are out there.

Today I think I might throw on the Wilwood BBK since I won't be doing the IC piping... I am a bit hesitant but the current brake situation is less than ideal. Feels really spongy, and it has drilled rotors. Normally I would just replace the rotors and clean up the calipers a bit... but since I have this kit sitting around might as well go full send. I need to replace the e-brake cables and since they are different on the Wilwood kit it sort of all makes sense to just replace it all.

There are only a few items left on my original list:
  1. Brakes - Again stealing some parts from the other MR2 build... Full BBK from Wilhelm with all the goodies. Need to fix the broken e-brake but not sure where exactly it is broke right yet. The brakes work okay now, which is why this is so far down the list.
  2. Repair front lip and fogs - The front bumper is a bit of a mess. The lip is half falling off and the fogs are crooked and just look... bad. Going to see what I can do to fix that.
  3. Suspension overhaul - I can just feel all the play with worn suspension components. Going to swap in the bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and the geometry kit from Wilhelm
Although I need to add a few things:
  1. Intercooler Piping - The HPS kit was nice but I'm still not feeling good about it. So I'll be replacing the IC piping with 1-piece designs.
  2. Alignment - This will come after the suspension overhaul, but I can visually see the alignment is off.
  3. Axles - I have a set of beefy turbo axles that I want to swap in. The ones on the car need new boots so I might as well just swap in these new ones and repair the ones I take off for later use. This is not urgent though, only one boot is bad and only throwing a bit of grease.
  4. MSPNP - I keep going back and forth on this. I want to remove all the extra crap and the MSPNP will help with a lot of that. I have experience with these from my Miata days, and it seems simple and easy for the most part. Will need to get the IAT bung welded in to the TB inlet but other than that, seems super simple. Not looking to make crazy power, just stock levels with a bit more control and the ability to clean up a bunch of extra crap.
  5. Catch Can - RacerX makes a nice one. My intake had a bit of oil in it that I think this will help with. It may be indicative of another problem, but either way this will help.
  6. Water Neck - I have a new one, the one that moves the fill tube to the engine. This will help with cleaning things up a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I spent most of the day working on brakes. Few snags unfortunately.

I started in the rear. I am installing the Wilwood kit from Wilhelm Raceworks. I have only had amazing experiences with Alex W. The parts are absolutely perfect, he uses the parts on his own cars, and everything he sells is really well thought out.

68699


Installing the calipers, rotors and e-brake were super simple. The parking brake cables that were on the car had seized, but the Wilhelm kit comes with new cables since they use different connections at the brakes. I managed to install both the cables incorrectly. It was probably one of those things where he didn't expect someone could screw this up, but I did, so yay for me. Basically where the cable is "clamped" in place with the 10mm bolt, I had it mounted too far forward. Since the cable was too far forward there was a ton of slack. Once I moved it back everything fit great. Shout out to Alex for helping me figure that out.

68698


The fronts had issues... again my fault... sigh. I need to pay more attention. So I ordered 17x7 +45 in the front, and 17x8 +35 in the rear. Well the offset is too positive and the spokes hit the caliper. It is real, real close. I emailed Alex and he said that I could probably use some spacers and extended studs. I already have the extended studs, however I'll need to get some spacers.

So the car is sitting on jack stands until I get the spacers in. Tomorrow I'll swap in the new studs and bleed the brakes. The spacers I ordered (12mm) will be in on Friday. I don't think I'll need to worry about any issues with the fenders... but we will see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Morning update..

The spacers will actually get here today (yay). So hopefully I can get the brakes bled and everything in order so I can just throw on the spacers and call it good. I was already planning to run 5mm spacers to clear the coilovers, so using 12mm isn't that big a deal, especially with such a positive offset already. However I am not 100% sure yet that everything will clear with an extra 7mm.

I'm about to go out and throw on two 10mm spacers to see how it fits. If the 12mm doesn't fit I'll unfortunately have to order some new wheels. Not the worst thing, but an expense I hadn't planned for.

I need to mess with the shifter because there still seems to be too much play. I might have put in the OEM seat cup wrong so I may pull that out and tear it down to double check. It looked right and felt good but I still have a lot of play. It doesn't look like a cable issue either. However I could be wrong. Either way I'll probably pull of the arm rest and take a look.

I also want to throw on my extended clutch slave push rod. Right now the clutch engages right off the floor and I think it is causing some of the shifting issues I have. I'm going to bleed the system for good measure. I also have a solid roller clutch pedal clevis kit that I was considering installing, so I'll try that first as it has a bit of adjustment in it.

So basically here is docket for the day:
  1. Install extended studs
  2. Finish installing front brakes
  3. Bleed brakes
  4. Adjust E-Brake
  5. Pull of arm rest and check to see what the issue is
  6. Make plans to fix the issue, possibly fix the issue now if it is just some adjustments
  7. Install Solid Roller Clutch Pedal Clevis Kit
  8. Swap out clutch slave push rod (if above doesn't improve feel)
  9. Bleed clutch slave
Not too busy of a day. I'm wondering if I need to pull the hub off to replace the studs, not sure how much the hammering will hurt the wheel bearing. If I had front wheel bearings I would honestly just pull of the whole assembly and replace it. As it stands I might do that anyway and to clean up some things. The fronts are easy since there are no axles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Well that last post was quite optimistic. Problem after problem today.

I was going to install the extended studs and decided to just take the whole hub assembly off since I was going to replace the inner and outer tie rods too. I also have a new Toyota ball joint and the suspension geometry kit to install. It is all right there and pretty easy to do...

Well everything came off fine, I got the new studs pressed. Then moved to the steering rack. Well I had non-power steering inner tie rods which have a much different thread size. So I had to order 2 new ones, which I'm not sure when they will be here.

Then I went to install the adjustable strut rods from Wilhelm Raceworks and one of the stud's threads are all messed up. The nut would not go on and I don't really have a way to repair it so going to have to get it replaced. It was at this point that the it was getting dark so I wrapped it up. Basically I am focusing on the following:

1. Repair strut rod
2. Replace inner tie rods

I'm basically dead in the water until that is done as everything else has been completed and I don't really want to start on other things even they are unrelated until this is all wrapped up. I've been down the road of slowly working on different parts of the car at the same time and it never turns out well. I had a few good days of work on the car and got a lot done. A little sad it isn't in a drivable state, but oh well. A bit sad how things turned out but that is how it goes with working on cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
516 Posts
You should get a basic tap and die set. If the threads just have a burr on them, you could always hit them with a file to clean it up.

I know what you mean about setbacks, but I think it's good to just set goals for a stage of mods, and just work through it until it's done. It can start sucking when the car is down for a long time, but doing things halfassed or half finishing projects just becomes a mess in a real hurry.

Car looks good tho'.

I'm jelly at that earlier throttle body cable cam. The '93+ one is all sorts of wonky and huge.

BTW - what did MR2 heaven say on the IC pipes? Those look horrible
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
MR2 Heaven is going to take them back. They said they have a new process that will make them as a single piece to prevent this from future ones but that they won't be in stock for another month. They also have aluminum ones but they are also not in stock. Overall it has been super easy working with them, definitely good guys, I think this one just slipped through the cracks.

I do have a tap and die set, unfortunately the size of the stud is not one I have. Once you get into the M12 and larger sizes Toyota uses some thread pitches that are not in my kit. I have put in an order on amazon for that thread size. I always run the tap or die on any bolt/hole I remove.

However the stud was pretty badly messed up, it looked like someone took a hammer to it. I didn't really notice until I was about to install them.

I definitely understand about selecting some mods and working through them. One reason why there will be some delay for new updates. I'm basically on hold until the new tie rods come in. Not a big deal though, I am definitely taking my time and doing things right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,659 Posts
Loving this thread and reminds me
a) to update my thread
b) to keep working on my car!

Keep up the great work man, love these build threads
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Thanks!

Not much to report, inner tie rods come Monday. I probably won't get to install until Tuesday.

I did however pick up a GEN2 3SGTE engine from a local MR2 guy. I don't know much about it, however it was supposed to have spun a bearing but have upgraded pistons and rods... but I will not know for sure until I open her up. No plans for it now, but I did want to have a spare engine to get a closer look and learn a bit more about these engines. Always happy to have another engine in the garage :)
68721
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
Alright so I figured I'd do a quick update.

1. Finished up the BBK install
1. Bled all 4 corners
1. Installed 2 new inner tie rods
1. Installed the front suspension geometry kit
1. New Toyota ball joints
1. One new rack boot (reused one)

The traffic was a bit too heavy to bed the rotors/pads, so I just did a few laps around the block with 20-25 to 5mph stops under different scenarios to make sure there was no issues. There was an odd rhythmic clunk/grinding under hard-ish braking, so I lifted the car back up and everything looked fine. I thought something might be causing issues when the car dipped forward but there was good clearance on everything, and nothing felt loose.

I did notice that the rear brakes had no signs of wear. You can tell the front pads were engaging as the rotors were nice and polished, however the rears I didn't see any signs of wear. The pedal felt pretty good so I thought the brakes were bled, but I'm thinking maybe there is still some air in the rear so they are not compressing... that combined with the brake bias could be the cause. Thoughts?

Anyways today I'll try and bleed the rears again and see if that helps. The pedal is pretty firm, but maybe not as firm as it could be. The clunk/grinding also went away and it all feels pretty smooth now. We'll see once I get up to speed and heat things up a bit. I also adjusted the e-brake and it works great, so nice to have that again.

I still need to install the rear geometry kit and ball joints. Then of course an alignment. I'm a bit unsure about what to tell them for front and rear caster, since I have the adjustable strut rods front and rear (and since they are not OEM style, they are not at the OEM setting). I asked Alex W. for suggestions and he gave me:
1/16 total toe in front
1/8 total toe in rear
-2 degrees camber F+R

(these settings WITH his suspension geometry kit)

While I was under the car I did notice the sway bar bushings were completely shot.. they looked twisted and dry rotted. SO I will throw some new ones on for good measure.
 
21 - 40 of 98 Posts
Top