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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

New to the forum, but have been lurking for a while. This place has, and is going to continue to be, a fantastic resource.

I figured I would contribute what I am learning through my first attempt at restoring a 28 year old car.

Backstory:
I learned to drive standard on my Dad's 1986 MR2. This car was eventually lent out while I was in college, sustained some questionable damage and would no longer start. It sat in front of my father's business for nearly 5 years. Upon graduating college, and getting a place of my own with some disposable income, I decided to try and get the MR2 running. I started researching on here and decided that I wanted to find a blacktop engine to swap into it.

Shortly thereafter, I became the owner of an 87 MR2 that was already home to a blacktop swap with a C52 6 speed and a wiring disaster in it.

I found a mechanic in San Antonio willing to take on the job - March 2013.

I told him, I want the blacktop out of the 87, and into the 86. Easy enough right? Fast forward to August 2014 and many missed deadlines later... I picked up the two MR2s from my mechanic. The blacktop has been swapped into the 86, with a custom wiring harness from (www.wiregapinc.com). Unfortunately the harness was only partially wired, the cooling lines, fuel lines, and vaccuum lines were not hooked up. He had told me he had removed the gas tank and got it sealed (this I found out was fabricated during the fuel tank removal.) I have been working for a few weeks with some help from another board member.

Will be posting updates as more work is completed. What is done so far:
1. Fuel tank removed and replaced with one purchased on ebay
2. New fuel pump (Airtex E8023)
3. Fuel sending unit restored from rusty tank damage. (Deoxit and dremmel tool with wire brush rust removal)

See album below.
http://imgur.com/a/Z8oLf
 

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i know how it feels to have a mechanic holding your car hostage for way longer than you want them to. and then slapping you with a bill for way more than you want it to be. lesson learned: DIY. good luck with the rest of the work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pobre - I was fortunate enough to escape without him charging me a dime. He felt really bad for setting so many unrealistic deadlines, and not being able to get the thing running.
 

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If it takes you a year to change a fuel pump, hook up some vac, coolant and fuel lines then you have bigger problems.

There will however be certain unforeseen issues that will pop up and bugs to be shaken out just like with every project swap but it sounds like he has a good bit of it taken care of for him already.

If its installed and he has a proper conversion harness to boot then he is almost done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I appreciate the confidence Chester.

Update:
Was working on fuel line connections today, and had an issue connecting them back in.

This big one cracked when I tried to get it back on. Connected it at the fuel tank first and tried to get it on the other connection but was either not strong enough, or the part lost its flexibility over the past couple of decades... -


Should I:
a) take the same one off of my '87 tomorrow and try and use it instead
b) look into getting a different type of connection (seeing as this one is so damn hard to get on and off if you ever need to drop the fuel tank to change the fuel pump *fingers crossed with airtex pump*.)
c) your suggestions?

Secondly,

This little connection is looking pretty worn. I just bought some regular fuel line at auto zone today, not braided. What are the risks associated with using the unbraided vs. braided?

 

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If it takes you a year to change a fuel pump, hook up some vac, coolant and fuel lines then you have bigger problems.

There will however be certain unforeseen issues that will pop up and bugs to be shaken out just like with every project swap but it sounds like he has a good bit of it taken care of for him already.

If its installed and he has a proper conversion harness to boot then he is almost done.
No you completely misunderstand he has only been working on it for a few weeks

The Mechanic shop that was supposed to do the work dropped the ball but that's in the past

Some use full help




Try putting the large line on the tank first

Davegt27
 

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I'm guessing the fuel line shown in your picture is on the high pressure side coming from the tank to the fuel filter? The only advantages of braided line is that it helps resist pressure blow out from a weakened line and improves resistance to frictional wear. As I'm spectacularly anal I replaced mine with SS braided line.

For the fuel hose, use this part from NAPA (1032). It is a tight fit - use silicon lubricant to make fitment easy:

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Made my way over to NAPA and picked up that part. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Spent way too long this evening cussing at trying to get that hose on, then figuring out it was too long (after tightening it up)..., taking off, trimming hose, and reconnecting. That spot in there to tighten the hose clamp is torture to get to. I used a little petroleum jelly to get the hose on, and connected at the fuel tank first.

Got everything connected. Pics below of the in progress.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update:
Got all of the fuel lines connected, and tried to see if I could get it to start. No luck.

Not getting spark on any cylinder. I checked all of the plugs, and they look fine. Measured the resistances on the wires running to them, and they looked fine as well. Inspected the distributor, and showed no real signs of any wear or build-up.

Tested the primary ignition coil resistance, and it showed 1-1.1 ohms. The blacktop repair manual said it should be .36 and .55 - cold. So, I went to Autozone and got a new duralast ignition coil. Part#C903

Came home, mounted it on and checked the primary coil resistance on the new ignition coil and it was also 1.1...

Tried to start the car, and still no luck with the new part. Has anyone else tested different values at their primary ignition coil than what the repair manual shows?
 

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Update:
Got all of the fuel lines connected, and tried to see if I could get it to start. No luck.

Not getting spark on any cylinder. I checked all of the plugs, and they look fine. Measured the resistances on the wires running to them, and they looked fine as well. Inspected the distributor, and showed no real signs of any wear or build-up.

Tested the primary ignition coil resistance, and it showed 1-1.1 ohms. The blacktop repair manual said it should be .36 and .55 - cold. So, I went to Autozone and got a new duralast ignition coil. Part#C903

Came home, mounted it on and checked the primary coil resistance on the new ignition coil and it was also 1.1...

Tried to start the car, and still no luck with the new part. Has anyone else tested different values at their primary ignition coil than what the repair manual shows?

Dude,

The rated primary resistance of the Duralast coil (c903) is .2 to .8. If you're reading 1.1 then the Duralast coil is defective.



http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-9n80r?itemIdentifier=65955_0_17367_

- Chester
 

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...Tested the primary ignition coil resistance, and it showed 1-1.1 ohms. The blacktop repair manual said it should be .36 and .55 - cold. So, I went to Autozone and got a new duralast ignition coil. Part#C903

Came home, mounted it on and checked the primary coil resistance on the new ignition coil and it was also 1.1...
This measurement is beyond the sensitivity of your multimeter. The only relevant quality here is that you have good continuity. In other words, .36, .55 and 1.1 all equal "good." Sorry that you got a new coil for nothing.
 
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