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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I cleaned my car's AFM with carb cleaner a month back & now it's having idling & running issues the accelaration & response seem laggy while it idles at ~600 rpm when its started & then settles at ~1000 rpm after its been driven a few miles.
I read that the AFM should not be cleaned with carb cleaner & bought a can of contact cleaner & sprayed it on the part which seemed to improve the way it runs but its still feels slow & the idling issue is still the same.
I also read that the flapper door pivot should be sprayed with a penetrating fluid but i'm not sure if it will be all right to use WD40 for the purpose?
Is there anything else that i can do to solve the issue?
TIA.
 

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ya carb cleaner is a no-no on those... you most likely shorted out the circuit board which is really easy to do anyway. I’ve went through so many of those things... fucking garbage new, they really suck 25yrs later... find a new one BUT you’ll have to find a specific to your ecu model as they are calibrated different through the 3-4yrs
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ya carb cleaner is a no-no on those... you most likely shorted out the circuit board which is really easy to do anyway. I’ve went through so many of those things... fucking garbage new, they really suck 25yrs later... find a new one BUT you’ll have to find a specific to your ecu model as they are calibrated different through the 3-4yrs
It seems to be running much better after i cleaned the AFM with contact cleaner as earlier i could smell it running rich from inside the cabin but it still has the idling problem guess i'll give it it a few more sprays with the cleaner before i decide to buy a replacement.
 

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Btw, that idle issue is probably an intake leak, check that out.. it saying the Afm isn’t the issue, but the afm doesn’t do much at idle
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Btw, that idle issue is probably an intake leak, check that out.. it saying the Afm isn’t the issue, but the afm doesn’t do much at idle
Seems the car only ran well the one time that i drove it right after i cleaned the AFM becoz it feels quite slow to drive now.
I once read somewhere that our car's AFM's don't work well with free flow filters & it was right after i made holes in the bottom of the stock air box that the car started to feel slow to drive & it has been the same ever since.

In the last year since modifying the air box i have had a injector resistor pack fail (that was replaced with a used one) after which the car had a fuel leak out of one of the fuel rail insulators which at the time i thought might be the reason for the defective idle problem.

Do you think the AFM can be repaired as i have ordered a bigger turbo for the car which will call for the AFM to be deleted as it will need an after market ecu?

I also have a hks FCD in the car do you think it could be causing problems with the AFM?
 

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I’m sure they could be repaired somehow but don’t know anyone who does... I hate those things in a big way... I do think open air filters are part of the reason they fail.. the AFM get wet and it kills circuit board... I use to semi block off the inlet port entry of the car and wrap the AFM with a towel if I ever drive in the rain... my previous 91T car was tracked a lot and got stuck out plenty of times... they are touchy as hell... I had one get so bad it just died, it took me 1/2 hr to drive a mile and fuel was pouring into the oil.... good times!!! Also I’m not a rain guard fan, but they do help a ton with moisture on spark components... not sure on the FCD... I doubt it’s the culprit... try another AFM if u have friends with one and you’ll know
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I’m sure they could be repaired somehow but don’t know anyone who does... I hate those things in a big way... I do think open air filters are part of the reason they fail.. the AFM get wet and it kills circuit board... I use to semi block off the inlet port entry of the car and wrap the AFM with a towel if I ever drive in the rain... my previous 91T car was tracked a lot and got stuck out plenty of times... they are touchy as hell... I had one get so bad it just died, it took me 1/2 hr to drive a mile and fuel was pouring into the oil.... good times!!! Also I’m not a rain guard fan, but they do help a ton with moisture on spark components... not sure on the FCD... I doubt it’s the culprit... try another AFM if u have friends with one and you’ll know
Guess i'm going to block the holes i made in the air box becoz i don't enjoy driving the car anymore, it feels flat & gutless & the push that you get everytime you press the gas is missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Try it!! If I had one here I’d give it to you, I’d just try and find another one... once they eff up there is not fixing it ime
I reset the ECU after reading this thread by Lagos & the car is now accelarating very fast just like it did before i made holes in the stock air box

I thought you might find it useful becoz a lot of people have followed his advice & been able to cure the problem
Hesitation when cold
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Never seen this one... it’s worth a try.. I always let my car warm up, but I’ll admit that gets old sometimes
This is where its explained that the problem persists even when the cars warmed up
The adjustment screw is a big screw right on the front of the afm. If you cant spot it right away, then yours might be covered up by a metal cap that youll have to remove before you can access it. Look for the big circle on your afm.

You can go more then 3 turns, but you dont want to go too far. The idea is to turn it just as much as is needed fix the problem. If you go too far, your car might have idle issues. Probably the best advice would be to go one turn at a time, until the problem goes away. Just remember to reset your ecu each time, and give it a few cold mornings to make sure its really fixed.

Turning the screw counter clockwise DOES allow more air to bypass the flap.
How does this fix the hesitation issue? Beats me.. it makes no sense at all really, however i have a theory. Stock ecu is programed to cut fuel if you try to boost a cold motor. For some reason this seems to be happening at even normal part throttle driving for some of us, causing the hesitation. Either due to an afm issue, or maybe because our cars flow more air the stock when we put exhausts, boost controllers and air intakes on them... who knows. Give it a try and let me know how it works for you guys
 

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I adjusted the screw on my previous MR2, but never did the ecu fuse trick... once the snow melts off here I’ll certainly give it a try... I’m in the middle of buying a 2GR setup for this car, but it’ll be Fall before I have everything so it’s only down for a week.. hoists are hard to come by haha
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Adjusted the screw on the AFM 3 turns counterclockwise & the hesitation went away immediately then after a couple of days i thought i'd adjust it back 1 turn clockwise & as soon as i reset the ecu the car started zipping like it had never done before in the 10 years that i had owned it even at 7000 rpm the power was going higher & the in gear accelaration was quite amazing even at low revs as i realized what a pos the AFM must be in this model to make it run like it had done all this time!
 
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