MR2 Owners Club Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to purchase and self install (with a more experienced friend) some BC Racing Br Style Coil overs ($995 and comes with front end links) in my 19993 Turbo. Any advice as this is my first car and first big modification!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
It's ~6-7 bolts per corner - hardly rocket surgery.

Just take your time, torque things to spec, make measurements of spring perches so things are consistent on your first ride height measurement (you'll want to go back and adjust at least once), and make sure to drink plenty of beer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
Brakes hoses are the hardest part. Not sure how they mount to the coilovers but I normally cut the tab on the OEM struts and bend it out the way to get the brake hose out without having the bleed the brake system.

Other than that its 3 top hat bolts per strut, 2 lower bolts and 1 swaybar link bolt.
Clean the swaybar link bolts so they don't strip or get stuck.
You may have to partially unbolt one of the rear brake calipers to get a lower bolt out.

That's about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Just know you are doing this for looks not performance, BC coilovers aren't very good compared to koni struts in stock housings. The lower you go the worse your performance will be.
yes im aware I want adjustability as im going to run stock wheels for a few months before I get some new wheels and tires
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
Probably need a spring compressor too.
Not really. If you are swapping full struts then you aren't taking things apart unless the BCs don't come with top hats.
Either way you can actually do spring swaps on standard struts in the SW20 without spring compressors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
Pretty sure I had to compress the stock struts first to get them out, but it was a long long time ago...
I used to then I found it was a complete waste of time and energy. I can put together OEM springs and struts by myself these days. Lowering springs are WAY easier due to the soft part of the spring.
I wouldn't do this on most other cars though. Some have silly preload on the springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
My last car was a bit of trial and error when it came to springs and struts. A good brand will give you a great balance between comfort and performance. I went through a few different springs to find what worked for me. Best advice is to take care of all your suspension work at the same time then get an alignment immediately after. So if you're doing coils, go ahead and replace the bushings and check the balljoints/tie rods, etc. When these cars are out of alignment they can be a bit more unstable and you can ruin your tires pretty quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
So I'm convinced that I'll redo most of the suspension, but not immediately as I can't afford it. Probably a full suspension bushing replacement kit to rejuvenate the car. All I need before my coilover install this weekend is the toruque specs of the suspension if anyone is willing to provide. Stuff like the top 3 to 4 bolts on the top of the coilover around the adjustment knob, the two bolts that connect to the steering knuckle, and the end links. I think that's all the bolts I'll have to deal with(?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
I replied in the other place you asked this question. Online BGB for the MR2 will have it.

Top bolts, not too tight as they don't do much, just hold the strut from falling out.
Bottom bolts, I do them up tight but I'm sure there is a medium torque setting for these.
End links, will depend on the type and tools needed to tighten them. Sometimes you can only use a spanner and hex key to tighten them so no torque specs can be achieved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Coils are installed and working perfectly, scheduled and alignment tomorrow so that's good. Car is dropped 1 inch from stock currently and I'll leave it that way until I get my wheels in a month. My inner side of my wheel is around a finger in thickness from the coilover, is this safe/normal?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
You want about 3 mm (1/8") of clearance between the tires and everything else so that they can't deflect and hit stuff. A "finger width" is probably closer to 3/8" or a bit more, so that's more than enough.

Car is looking good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
You want about 3 mm (1/8") of clearance between the tires and everything else so that they can't deflect and hit stuff. A "finger width" is probably closer to 3/8" or a bit more, so that's more than enough.

Car is looking good
sounds good, and thanks!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top