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Discussion Starter #1
My '91 Turbo has a coolant leak in one of the pipes that go from the front to the rear. Looking around, I see both are available (right seems harder to find) - 16577-74010 and 16559-74010, circa $150-200 each. (Not sure which is leaking; report from garage inspecting it - I thought there was a leak and had them pressure-test.)

a) how hard is it to do? My guess is "hard" (lots to move...)
b) what else should one expect to need to replace? (i.e. hoses....)

I need to decide if I want to spend a few thousand fixing it up and then drive it occasionally, or sell it. Needs front rotors, tie rods, 2 sway bar links, paint (and has some uneven body panels (roof, minor damage to fender); local shop quoted me something crazy like $7000), radio & antenna, not sure if AC is working, small hole in seat, a few other bits, squirrel ate cruise control wiring, air bag light on. 128K miles. Runs strong. What's the market like for that? (Near Philadelphia if that matters)

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Damn it's tempting to really fix it up after reading Alex's posts about his fixer-upper. I remember when I used to have that sort of time... before kids. ;-) Fundamentally it's a good car and never messed with; mostly unhappy from sitting too long. I replaced all the calipers a while back; struts all redone, silly triangular links in the rear replaced. The unevenness in the roof isn't really visible without looking at reflections. Biggest annoyance has always been it draining the battery if it sits more than a week. I think that's largely some aftermarket security system; I once asked a dealer about ripping it out and they quoted $700, so I just ignore it (and cut the wires to the alarm horn so it doesn't scream if I have to put the car on a charger). I've owned it since early '99; used to drive it to work, then after getting married once or twice a week to work (normally we drove her car). But since having kids 11 years ago and starting to work only from home 9 years ago, it's much harder to find excuses to drive it.
 

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Is the leak the rubber hoses or the hard pipe? If it is the hard pipe is it the radiator one that runs below the fuel tank or the heater core ones that run above the fuel tank? The radiator hard lines and rubber hoses are pretty easy to replace. The heater core hard line is above the fuel tank and you must drop the tank to do.

Based on the part number you posted, that looks like the radiator hoses, which are pretty easy to replace depending on your experience and mechanical ability.

One thing I've noticed is that as I dig deeper into my car, I surface more issues and find more things to fix... it is rough on these older cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Left-hand (driver's) side heater pipe, so the fuel tank will have to be dropped :-( Mechanic suggests (probably wisely) to replace both heater hardpipes while in there, and I'd assume any hoses touched (or maybe just accessible) should also be.
 

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Might be worth throwing in a walbro fuel pump, all new fuel lines (they are cheap to replace) while the tank is out. The walbros are super cheap and makes sense to get rid of the stock one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I think this would be part #87208A (87208-17050); the right side would be 87208-17040 (and the other pipe (C) would be 87208-17080).
Unfortunately the A pipe 17050 which is leaking seems to be unavailable.... Maybe one with a $450 price, but maybe not too
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Maybe in California... Not in Pennsylvania..... :) At least not in the winter, or parts of spring and autumn
 

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I wouldn't be able to live with myself leaving the stock ones in place and just running new ones under the tank... however that is definitely the easiest (and cheapest) way to do it haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Shop it's at doesn't like cutting the cracked section off - worried with no barbs the hose will work it's way off, dumping coolant and resulting in a blown engine == lawsuit or unhappy customer
I'm temporarily bypassing the heater (brrrrrr in PA in January!), but will likely do the under-the-tank hose. If I have a reason to drop the tank, then yes, fix the pipe (and add a flare/barb perhaps)
 

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Generally it's the bracket connection that cracks the pipe. It can be cleaned and welded/brazed and adding in a rubber isolator to the mounting point/points when reinstalling it. I only cut the section out and flared with some pliers because I had no tools to fix it properly. This was over 8 years ago and no leaks but I'm not a business with liability so I can understand where they are coming from. Bead roller?
 
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