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Discussion Starter #1
Well I've had this parts car for over a year now and have wanted to get her back on the road since she still has a clean title and everything. I've tried to sell it with no bites, but now I have decided I'll toss a little cash its way and get her up and going for the local RallyX next year.

She needs a little but most I have laying around. I've got the old brakes off my 93 na that I am going to toss on along with the rotors. 93+ suspension, and 93 wheels.

I'm just in the planning stage right now and cant decide if I want to go USDM turbo or 5sfe. It has no drive terrine right now at all so either is up for grabs. Needs basically everything that would come with a rear clip for a motor swap.

I know I'm going to get stuck in some, "why are you racing in that class" class because I wont be running headlights, mirrors, or even most likely a front bumper cover, may put it on just to protect the radiator though.

Questions

1. What are some good tires and tire sizes to run
(93 wheels). I'm thinking just some cheap discounttire or tire rack ones, I'm just going for fun not really competition.

2. Any advice to what motor to use?

3. Any other helpful tips to give a first timer?

I have competed with the locals in Autox for a few years now and have gotten to know them, they actually are the ones who gave me the idea to run the MK2.


 

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skinny tall snow tires. altimax and i-pikes are good choices.
dont spend too much money/time preparing aside from basic reliability mods.

just get out there and have fun, you'll figure out what you want later on.

I believe the local SR class fast guy won nationals in his na sw20 with 300k miles on the body
 

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Discussion Starter #3
skinny tall snow tires. altimax and i-pikes are good choices.
dont spend too much money/time preparing aside from basic reliability mods.

just get out there and have fun, you'll figure out what you want later on.

I believe the local SR class fast guy won nationals in his na sw20 with 300k miles on the body
Wow. Thanks for your response. Yeah I was curious. We just have a small field with some gravel parts. Would you recommend getting some 14" steelies? Tires are hard to find in the 93 wheel sizes I think. I use discounttire and tirerack along with another new online tire buying site I found. I cant remember what it is at the moment though.

Nick
 

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I would go to 14s if you can fit them, but not steelies. just get some cheap aluminum ones.
I've never failed a steel wheel but have seen scary failed parts before.
 

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Since you are looking for fun not necessarily speed, go with the cheapest toughest option. I have off-road raced with most of the engines available in Mr2s, and the cheapest and toughest is the 5sfe. That said, I have a 3s-gte sitting in my garage that I bought as a spare, and don't need, and hopefully won't. Don't know much about its history, but could part with it.

In your shoes, I'd probably get some OEM 14s, which are cheap and tough as hell. I have beat the hell out of some in the past. I have used Blizzaks on dirt with some success before. Probably the closest thing to a true off-road tread you can find that'd fit an MR2 is a Towel City retread. They are ice racing tires, and very soft, and won't last long, but they'd probably be fast. I sometimes have ones that are worn enough that I won't use them on my racecar anymore, and I usually sell them for $25/ea or so. They are not DOT approved, though, so check your rules. Many tire shops will not mount them, either. These should probably not be your first choice, stick with something easy.

Regarding your third question... have fun, go slow in and fast out, and keep the shiny side up.
 

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I agree with hillman,
get as reliable as a setup as you can.
finishing every race in 2nd place is way more fun than finishing only 2 races in first place.

I don't know what size tires the 2nd gens usually fit, but I had to lift my aw11 1.5" and add some caster to have full steering and sus cycling without any rub (the firewall at full lock was the limitation) with 185/70/14s, which are the size available from the retread place hillman mentioned. (i have no experience with those, but would be curious to try them some day.
 

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I agree with hillman,
get as reliable as a setup as you can.
finishing every race in 2nd place is way more fun than finishing only 2 races in first place.

I don't know what size tires the 2nd gens usually fit, but I had to lift my aw11 1.5" and add some caster to have full steering and sus cycling without any rub (the firewall at full lock was the limitation) with 185/70/14s, which are the size available from the retread place hillman mentioned. (i have no experience with those, but would be curious to try them some day.
They are actually even bigger than that, since they are recaps on a 185/70-14 carcass. They are over 25" OD, which equates to about a 205/70-14. Some modification is required to fit them under a mk1, but they will just fit a mk2. 13s are available and smaller, if you can find wheels that'll clear your brakes.

As an aside, worrying about full-lock rub on a racecar is kind of silly.

I also disagree with the sentiment above about second-place. First-loser finishes suck. I would rather crash five times and win once, than finish 2nd six times ( except, of course, if you are running for a season championship, especially one where the points system punishes DNFs like I do now... where I never ever want to crash ).

But when you are starting out, that really doesn't matter. You need to learn, and you cannot learn what you need to learn sitting in the pits with a broken car. So go for reliability and durability. My first iceracer was a bone-stock '91NA, and it virtually never failed to start a race. It was not fast, but it didn't much matter, because neither was I.
 

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quick point about full lock rubbing:
on a road race car I agree not a huge issue. on an ice race / rally car, I'd say maintaining no rub at full lock is necessary. Increase in steer angle will help in instances where you might spin out otherwise. the difference between spinning out and maintaining a slide under control could mean the difference between losing a bumper on a tree vs DNF.
rubbing = unpredictable 1 wheel braking. You never want that when you are at full lock steer in either direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the tips guys. This is helping alot. I will most likely go with the NA and 14" stockies if I can find some. My 93 wheels are in decent condition anyways and don't really want to tear them up.

On that note. Anyone selling their NA that they swapped a turbo into? I need everything.....lol
 

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quick point about full lock rubbing:
on a road race car I agree not a huge issue. on an ice race / rally car, I'd say maintaining no rub at full lock is necessary. Increase in steer angle will help in instances where you might spin out otherwise. the difference between spinning out and maintaining a slide under control could mean the difference between losing a bumper on a tree vs DNF.
rubbing = unpredictable 1 wheel braking. You never want that when you are at full lock steer in either direction.
While I agree that no-rub is better than rub, I can't agree that it's necessary to avoid. There's no way I would run a slower tire just to avoid full-lock rub. When you are at full lock, your tires are not normally rolling much anyway. A small amount of unpredictable braking isn't going to cause you a bigger problem than the one you made for yourself by getting luridly sideways.

To put all too fine a point on it... I crashed out of a race on Sunday, and lost my points lead as a result. Let's pretend that was the result of a rubbing tire. Would I trade that for running a slower tire and never being in the lead in the first place? Hell no.

I'd just try harder not to make the mistake that put me luridly sideways in traffic in the first place.
 

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Thanks for all the tips guys. This is helping alot. I will most likely go with the NA and 14" stockies if I can find some. My 93 wheels are in decent condition anyways and don't really want to tear them up.

On that note. Anyone selling their NA that they swapped a turbo into? I need everything.....lol
I'm not clear on exactly what you are looking for in that final paragraph. I would avoid buying someone else's swapper. As noted above, you want reliability. No one does that better than Toyota. People generally sell off their swapped MR2s because they tire of dealing with a bunch of unresolved issues... that is not what you want. Unless you are an excellent mechanic and feel you can fix someone else's mistakes, I'd stick with Toyota's work.

I ran a couple hundred off-road w2w races in my old '91NA, plus some rallycrosses, track days, and probably a hundred autocrosses. I don't recall it ever missing a beat... and I beat the absolute snot out of that car. Then I sold it to another autocrosser, and they put more abuse on it.

A tougher car I don't think you will find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm not clear on exactly what you are looking for in that final paragraph. I would avoid buying someone else's swapper. As noted above, you want reliability. No one does that better than Toyota. People generally sell off their swapped MR2s because they tire of dealing with a bunch of unresolved issues... that is not what you want. Unless you are an excellent mechanic and feel you can fix someone else's mistakes, I'd stick with Toyota's work.

I ran a couple hundred off-road w2w races in my old '91NA, plus some rallycrosses, track days, and probably a hundred autocrosses. I don't recall it ever missing a beat... and I beat the absolute snot out of that car. Then I sold it to another autocrosser, and they put more abuse on it.

A tougher car I don't think you will find.

Thanks for the info.

I'm wanting the 5sfe that came out of their car that they swapped a 3sgte into. It would be hard to find a 5sfe swap that didn't come out of someone else car don't you think?
 
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