MR2 Owners Club Forum banner
21 - 37 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
Nepherim said:
I didn't read it, it's just something I worried over before trying it. Obviously now that I've done it, I've no such concern.

The dishwashing soap was purely an attempt at cleaning all the old wax and chemicals off -- not something I plan on doing regularly.

I may try some of that Bug and Tar remover, if I can find it today.

I used to detail cars for 6 yrs we would use Blue coral cleaner/degreaser. Wash it real good but we would make sure we had it diluted. If we had stubborn tar,gum,bugs we had a bottle that was stronger to use on it. The only reason we would use such a strong chemical is to get the old wax and all the stuff all over the paint. We would then Wax the car with a Teflon wax it's more expensive but it lasts longer and will take more abuse. When we also did planes we would use Teflon Wax b/c in planes it would increase your air speed, create less drag.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,905 Posts
I have been using the clay bar prior to waxing for many years now. Extremely easy to use and does a fanatastic job of removing surface crap and making the surface of the paint extremely smooooth. Just throw a towel across the hood of your car after clay baring and waxing and just watch that sucker shoot right off the car. Try that after just a wax job and I bet your towel will just drag across the surface. I swear by clay baring and it WILL NOT harm your paint!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
SenorCuervoAW11 said:
Where do you get teflon wax?

Also, didn't I hear that for teflon wax to cure properly, you need to get the surface hot? I could be mistaken.

Not that i know of. I mean i have been doing it on Planes for about 4 yrs. We didn't know of you having to heat it up for it to stick. We actually had someone give us a flight speed beforeand after and it definately helped.


When you use towels to wax you have to use a lint free towel to take off the wax. From what i have seen and used it works so much better. you can get them at Wally World for 5 bucks for 3 of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
And the results are in. Claybar and NTX scooored! :) The results are excellent. The surface is extraordinarily smooth; all swirls are now gone, and several large scratches (around 15") are history.

A word though. Polishing is a real PITA. In the future I will not do it unless I have a buffer. I'm really not convinced that polishing was very effective, I strongly suspect the NTX did much of the work. It took over 5 hours to polish everything, and it was very tough work.

The NTX was a dream, and took around an hour of easy work. It went on silky smooth, no effort. And rubbed off almost as easily. There's not as much depth as I'd hoped, but it shiny as hell, and I may try more NTX, or possibly the Mothers carabuna that came with the claybar to increase the depth a little.

All in all a rewarding way to spend two days... just no more manual polishing for me :)



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Oh, and I used microfibre cloths. Completely lint free, left no scratches, and worked great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
It was a Mothers California Gold kit. Came with a bar (good for 3 MR2's), some detailing liquid, and a small thing of carabuna wax.
 

·
I LOVE GOLD!
Joined
·
1,940 Posts
SELL ME YOUR SC!!! PLEASE....

TM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I used the paste. I suspect the paste will last better, as it's easier to put it where you want. It also went on so easily, I find it hard to understand how the spray would be easier! It's expensive, but it'll last quite a few applications.
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Top