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I also didn't think about STOCK supra rods. Nor eagle's.

But, that is an option. I would not put eagle rod in any engine, ever.

Nor any other cheap chinese rod.

If u want 300M custom rods with l19, for 800$, buy r&r rods and no problem.
I use r&r alu rods in our drag car with 1100hp (2L 16v) and don't have any problems.

One question: why to build a car with 700hp, and then to be afraid to push it?

Stupid. And waste of money. Better to have healthy 300hp on dd rollers.
 

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I know pat's celica very well.

First, he is using destroked 5s. Because he uses LONGER ROD, with smaller compression height, because of revs he uses.

Guys, i built many strong motors not only toyotas, and i have a long exerience in building/tuning engines.

For longevity, the best would be longer rod, smaller ch on the piston, and stay 2.2.

That means, 91mm stroke, 2jz rod lenght, and piston with smaller ch.
 

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TH Performance said:
I know pat's celica very well.

First, he is using destroked 5s. Because he uses LONGER ROD, with smaller compression height, because of revs he uses.

Guys, i built many strong motors not only toyotas, and i have a long exerience in building/tuning engines.

For longevity, the best would be longer rod, smaller ch on the piston, and stay 2.2.

That means, 91mm stroke, 2jz rod lenght, and piston with smaller ch.
Why do you say for longevity a longer rod be better?

Angel
 

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Smaller sideloading, less wear.

This is why all new engines in the world have long rods and shallow pistons.

More ignition possible.

For our applications, superb.
 

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TH Performance said:
I also didn't think about STOCK supra rods. Nor eagle's.

But, that is an option. I would not put eagle rod in any engine, ever.

Nor any other cheap chinese rod.

If u want 300M custom rods with l19, for 800$, buy r&r rods and no problem.
I use r&r alu rods in our drag car with 1100hp (2L 16v) and don't have any problems.

One question: why to build a car with 700hp, and then to be afraid to push it?

Stupid. And waste of money. Better to have healthy 300hp on dd rollers.
Well weather you would or not, eagle rods have proven VERY VERY reliable and work perfectly fine. I have yet to hear of one breaking due to power. 98% of 3s builds are budget builds, they don't have the money to waste of parts they don't need (aka a more expensive rod that doesn't do anything a eagle can't).

Who said anything about not pushing a 700whp car? Talk to the ATS guys who daily drive their cars at that power level for thousands of miles.

I said no one build a motor like that for track racing, you don't need that power for track racing and like I said it is death waiting to happen. Hard enough to keep the backend in check with a reasonable amount of power. The high HP mr2's are built for the street and pushed real hard.

There is also an aluminum rod MR2 running around, it runs fine. I have nothing against aluminum rods myself but like I said MR2's are built as street cars on a budget 98% of the time and a forged steel rod is better long term on the street since it costs half the price.

JDM SNUKUMZ said:
Why do you say for longevity a longer rod be better?

Angel
He is right on that point, a longer rod ratio is better for high RPM's. Does the cost outweigh the benefits? that is debatable.

I would not mind a long rod build myself, just doubt that extra cost is worth it in the real world unless you plan to rev to 10k+. Seeing as you can't shift that high anyways, whats the point?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
As far as I know, regardless about ideal Rod/Stroke ratio, is having longer rods is more preferred way ONLY if the crank throw is the same on both. but this is only be possible is the block deck has the ability to accommodate the longer rod lenght
 

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There are ZERO problems with turning down the crank if done correctly. All of the ATS motors making 700whp++ are using turned down crank with eagle rods. And yes, there have been documented and proven 700whp with stock rods, they were shot peened but still stock rods.

You obviously have not been in the MR2 world long, in the last ~year alone there have been a ~half dozen 700whp+ MR2 built. the 2nd place record motor right now is Aarons car with a 2.3l stroker running a turned down 5s crank to stroke it even further and eagle rods with off the shelf ATS HD pistons. About as budget as you can get but yet still made a tone of power and daily driven for a year+.

The off the shelf stroker pistons are good enough for 650whp+, the HD pistons are good for 1000whp.

Using supra rods is not a good option at all, you make a bad rod ratio even worse and gain nothing in return, costs more too.

Also lastly there is the option of off the shelf rods, pauter makes them but they are pretty pricy and gain you nothing but extra weight and an empty wallet unless going for stupid high power levels.
What I have been thinking is longer lighter rods than the 3S GTE rods as there is 1.07 inches extra length you can add if you have custom pistons made. I am going to try for max bore maybe 91.5 from top hat sleves.if we measure well witha 93 mm stroke it should make for an awesome 7300 RPM street motor on 17lbs boost. Any recomendations for longer rods? Longer means better rod ratio for what I will use it for.
 

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TH Performance is on the money in all regards.

Longer rods = better, but as always, its a bang for buck argument.
A long rod build will be decently more expensive, and very few people realistically need it.
 
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