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be sure you get one for an 87 prelude 1.8 liter

just for clarification, and I don't know if there is any real difference. But I did this swap on my 88 4agze and had the idiot from napa order me one from an 87 prelude 2.0 and the regulator would get so hot it would burn you, not to mention over charged the battery. All the wiring was redone like it is supposed to be so I know that wasn't it. So I sent it back and got one for an 87 prelude with a 1.8 and it worked perfect but I got it from rockauto. Thanks for starting this sticky by the way
 

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Thanks for responding with your info Mr87. This is why I wanted to put this up, for owners to share info.

When we all put our heads together good things can happen.

Tim
ToyZ RacZing
 

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Why not convert to the internal regulator setups? You can run the 3 wire internals from a single ignition activated wire by simply hooking all 3 terminals together. If you'd like I can find out which wires from harness would be correct for each terminal.
 

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Hey Star,

The GZE units we are referring to have the 6 wire setups. I'm not sure how your statement relates to this, but if it does lay it out here for us.

If you search my original thread on this IC swap for the SC cars I delineate all the wire color ID'd and their service labels per the Electrical Service Manual.

Since this original swap I have gone one set further and are now using a completely "mechanical" voltage regulator from ever short of starting a forest fire?

Ya know all this started from a leaky distributor oil seal?

Regards,

Tim
 

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Starlet 3SGTE said:
Why not convert to the internal regulator setups?

You can run the 3 wire internals from a single ignition activated wire by simply hooking all 3 terminals together.
You might get a short lifetime. The regulator will get cooked by the exhaust manifold.

It might work for a while, but you will likely destroy the fault circuit, and that might have side effects. It would be a better idea to leave out the terminal for the fault light.
 

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part number for the regulator

I was going put this info up earlier but forgot. Here it is , the part off of rockauto.com was an "Airtec Wells" part number VR783, again it is off of an 1983-87 Honda Prelude with the 1.8. It might even be the 1.6 liter engine one as well but I have yet to look. I have had mine hooked up for a week now and the Voltage gauge reads 14v dead on all day everyday.
 

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Sorry to revive a long dormant thread, but to those who have done this swap, how on earth are you meant to remove the spade connectors from the black plastic terminal?

I tried pulling, pushing, inserting a small screwdriver underneath, among other things, and I can't for the life of me get those little spade connectors to come out of the terminal.
 

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If 2 dis-similar metals are in contact long enough, like those (spades) they exchange electrons and kinda melt into one metal instead of 2.

If necessary, you may have to peal back a section of the wires insulation wrap and another wire's stripped end around the exposed section and solder as needed.

I have given up the war on Toyota disintegrating parts. I do what ever is needed to make things work.

My car is a certified AACA Class 24-B Racecar: Competition. making these type of repairs is accepted in my class as a racecar is judged differently than a "regular" antique car.

Have you tried several days of blaster?
 
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