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Hello, just joined, new to MR2 ownership but have had long ago a '78 Corolla rally car and an AE86 ice racer. Also long ago rebuilt my own Formula Ford motor, not particularly expertly.

My son and I are undertaking a rebuild on his 4AGZE ('89 SC street/track day car). This car came to us as a non-start, grassroots modified car. We got some notes and the full Toyota manual but no details on the engine internals. It has a water-to-air intercooler, a larger (JDM Previa van?) supercharger, & 180mm pulley. We deleted the stock ECU with Greddy piggyback and the AFM, and got the car running well on a standalone Microsquirt, but have not done any serious tuning or dyno work. This is his first car and intended to be for fun street/track day use, nothing too crazy or fancy.

Motor is out now while the gearbox is getting new synchros. It was running great, compression was even, only issue was after sitting overnight or longer it blew oil smoke on startup. This would clear after a few blocks, then no substantial smoke while running. So, seems like valve seals. Other than that the DIY oil pan (welded-on extra capacity at the front) was leaking and the welds look dodgy, maybe other leaks too but hard to pinpoint exactly where - no obvious mainseal leaks.

We've removed the oil pan and all looks good and clean inside. Somebody has done some balancing and it has adjustable camwheels, so it's not stock but we don't really know what was done. No particular markings on the cams, crank or rods, they look stock. Pistons are marked "2?0610SC7650" (see photo), not sure if these are OEM. The head will come off next and I guess I'll have to cc the chambers or do some other measurements (deck height?) to see if the compression ratio was changed. Only thing I see so far is some black markings on the cam lobes (see photo); they don't feel rough like gouges or spalling.

So, my questions are:
  • Any general do's & don'ts or lessons learned to pass on?
  • Any opinions on OEM parts vs. aftermarket (rings, bearings, timing belt)?
  • Re-use rod, head, and main cap bolts or get new/aftermarket?
  • Head gasket - TRD 0.8mm, OEM, or aftermarket? Any favorites?
  • Wise to raise the compression ratio, how much, or just leave alone? (S/C, pump gas)
  • Any thoughts about aftermarket valves, valve springs, etc.?
  • Any issues going back to the stock oil pan? ... it seems the custom one was done just to increase sump capacity.
Goal here is reliability, not squeezing tons of power out of it, at a sensible spend. I realize these are general questions that have no cut & dried answers, but anyone's experience is appreciated.
Cheers!

Cheers
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I would change those valve stem seals and run it like that. No way I would start sinking a bunch of money into a motor like that. Obviously if you see anything obvious while pulling out that rusty cam, I would fix it then... This is just me though.
 

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wow oil squirter block so its at least a GZE101
looks like custom pistons

(
CP SC7650 Pistons for Toyota 4AGE 16V 81.5mm x 9:1 Corolla MR2 4AGE 4A-GE)

the factory GZ101 pistons are 8.9 to 1
it probably already has Head and Crank studs already
(they are fairly cheap for the 4AG motor so when people rebuild there motor they just add those items)

any idea how old the motor is ??

it looks like just doing the valve seals and you are good to go

unless your going to step it up a notch and get some headers and a WB O2 sensor
also add an adj FP regulator and a boost gauge

I have a 5AGZE and I went with bigger injectors (450 injectors) which are now to big since I moved to Denver
my car smokes a bit to much on start up

GLHF
David
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys, yes probably wise to just do the obvious reliability things and keep the spend under control. Seems a previous owner already spent a fair bit on it (pistons, head studs, balancing) but unfortunately the guy who built it up as a track day/solo car passed away so there is no way to know how many total hours are on the motor since then.
We have a header, fuel regulator, 400 (or 450?) cc injectors, & wideband. We will add a boost gauge when the motor goes back in. I had a watch of this from MotoIQ, seems more geared towards NA race builds but interesting:


  • We just received a new oil pan (with the oil cooler fitting), Gates timing belt tensioner and Apex gasket set from Rockauto ... a bit concerned about the generic head gasket in that set for our larger SC & pulley ... any thoughts?
  • The higher-grade Gates T176RB timing belt is on order (this seems to be the same part number sold by some of the specialists). Any reason to spend on a Toda belt, or some other specialist belt?
  • I will just get generic Viton, metal clad valve stem seals .... specialists sell 'Supertech' seals for slightly more but not sure how different they could be.
  • Head has studs already, mains do not, so I will get the ARP 203-5403 mains stud set.
  • I will probably pull the rod caps off too to inspect the bearings, and reassemble with ARP 203-6001 rod bolt kit.
  • MRP has a mains cap reinforcement that MotoIQ recommends (Main Reinforcement Caps | Manon Racing Products), maybe overkill for this motor, but with the NZ dollar exchange and swapping to ARP studs on the mains anyway, maybe it is cheap insurance.
My main concern now is the cams, cam bearings, and seals ... there seems to be some scoring or fretting in the bearing seats in the head, and you can feel the wear groove in the cams from the seal. Photos below show the worst examples of each. Has anyone used a cam repair sleeve? Presses over the cam to provide a smooth journal for the seal. It seems wierd that on a high revving motor the cam just runs directly in the aluminium head with no other bearing.

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I have used both TRD and cometic head gaskets


"My main concern now is the cams, cam bearings, and seals ... there seems to be some scoring or fretting in the bearing seats in the head, and you can feel the wear groove in the cams from the seal. Photos below show the worst examples of each. Has anyone used a cam repair sleeve? Presses over the cam to provide a smooth journal for the seal. It seems wierd that on a high revving motor the cam just runs directly in the aluminium head with no other bearing."

I don't know
and I never used cam repair sleeves
there is a tolerance
maybe take the head by a few performance machine shops
it is odd about cam ridding on the head surface but apparently its a common thing
I been wondering if dry film lubricant could be used on the surface but I never checked into it
 
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