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Hello, I have a 1988 SC MR2 manual. I recently replaced a burnt valve in the number 2 cylinder. I reassembled the car checked timing/compression/spark many times, the engine was working fine before dis assembly tested AFM it passed test TPS it also passed, this 4AGZE is from Japan and has no EGR system on it. also while playing with the distributor, attempting to get the engine to idle the boot for the alternator was broken and shorted on the distributor, it blew the fusible link on the battery, i replaced it the link am curious if the short damaged anything electronic not allowing the engine stay running?? there also is no check engine light on, I'm against the boards here guy's any advice would be greatly appreciated! Relays? fuses are good so I'm confused:dontknow:
 

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Damn, I just melted my fusible link removing my exhaust manifold heat shield and touching it to the alternator on accident, hopefully I don't run into any issues like this. Where did you get your fusible link replacement? Does it stall right away after starting it up? Can you keep it running if you give it gas? What about if you jumper the pins for the fuel pump to bypass the AFM fuel pump relay trigger?

-Mike
 

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Damn, I just melted my fusible link removing my exhaust manifold heat shield and touching it to the alternator on accident, hopefully I don't run into any issues like this. Where did you get your fusible link replacement? Does it stall right away after starting it up? Can you keep it running if you give it gas? What about if you jumper the pins for the fuel pump to bypass the AFM fuel pump relay trigger?

-Mike
My, local Auto parts store had 18ga fusible links they go by gauge not Amp rating there 3 dollars each, replaced it car powers up again, I did jump the FP & +B terminals i heard the fuel pump come on. Tried starting the car Nothing......... I'm so confused tried another ignitor too.
 

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My, local Auto parts store had 18ga fusible links they go by gauge not Amp rating there 3 dollars each, replaced it car powers up again, I did jump the FP & +B terminals i heard the fuel pump come on. Tried starting the car Nothing......... I'm so confused tried another ignitor too.
Dude,


What error codes, if any, are you seeing?



- Chester
 

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Since there is no way of knowing if you put everything back together correctly, along with your "short circuit" that you created, the only thing left to do, in my opinion, is to TRIPLE CHECK everything!.....by the book (BGB)! It could be something as simple as a vacuum leak, incorrect dist install, incorrect timing belt install, or something got fried and/or.... a combination of things. Sorry to say..... You could be in for a very long troubleshooting "situation". Good luck and let us know what the culprit(s) were.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have my AC disconnect i realized there's A/C vacuum lines going to the throttle body if i reconnect the AC harness could the possibly be the issue? I'm curious what the non AC 4AGZE engine throttle bodies are like? if those two vacuum lines affect how the car runs??
 

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The vacuum lines associated with the AC are a system designed to jump the idle up when the compressor is engaged. If these lines were left open they would mess with your mixture. Just plug them up and they will not be a factor.

Shorting the battery through the distributor could conceivably cause all sorts of electrical damage. There are magnetic pickup coils in the distributor that are essential for operation. The distributor is also connected to the ignitor and the ECU. The short could also have burned out a wire or a connection in between. You can check the pickup coils for continuity with a multimeter. After that, careful visual inspection. Then try swapping the ignitor and ECU.
 

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my guess is you fried something inside the distributor. unfortunately, the SC does not use the easy to find after market dizzy the NA uses. If you can find a known working sc dizzy, (get on the parts wanted section) odds are swapping yours out, and maybe the igniter too, would solve the problems.
 

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You didn't fry anything in the distro.
There is hardly anything in there besides a few pickup coils.
If you replaced the fused link along with any other blown fuses you should be good.
That's what fuses are for, just cause you blew one doesn't mean you ruined something, it just means they are doing their job.

If you took the engine apart and now it wont run right then right there is your issue. Go back and re check your work.
If you left the AC idle up unhooked it is going to create a major vacuum leak and make it run rough.
 

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You didn't fry anything in the distro.
There is hardly anything in there besides a few pickup coils.

That's what fuses are for, just cause you blew one doesn't mean you ruined something, it just means they are doing their job.

If you left the AC idle up unhooked it is going to create a major vacuum leak and make it run rough.
Yes, and those coils could be fried now. :rolleyes:

True, but the fuse's job is to prevent your entire car from going up in smoke. Collateral damage from blowing the main link is to be expected. If you only lost a few meters of fine wire, then you should consider yourself lucky.

True.
 

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shorting the main alternator feed to ground via the distro body is not going to "fry" the distro.
it's not good and not what you want to do but its not going to kill the distro.
The current would take the path of least resistance which would be the ground strap right to the battery.

The pickups in the distro are not grounded to the distro body, they are isolated and grounded together at the ECU and each one of their signal wires is feed 5V thru the ECU.

unless he unhooked the distro and shorted each coil one at a time to the battery there is just no way.

if you wan to double check there are a lot less expensive ways then buying and swapping parts, just get an ohm meter and check the resistance of each coil if you want piece of mind.
 

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shorting the main alternator feed to ground via the distro body is not going to "fry" the distro.
it's not good and not what you want to do but its not going to kill the distro.
The current would take the path of least resistance which would be the ground strap right to the battery.
This all could be true, but you are making several unwarranted assumptions. :)

We don't know exactly what the OP did, and he probably doesn't know himself since this happened in a fraction of a second when he was probably looking at something else. I recommend testing the coils and then moving on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I swapped, the coils/ignitors with good ones nothing, i swap the open Relay nothing going, I swapped the Dizzy nothing umm, check timing belt marks and cam studs are in the correct positions found a small leak on throttle body changing that gasket today. and going to swap the AFM. Today if my buddy is home he has an extra one.
 

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I'll try, hooking up the AC etc too see what happens if So i want to bypass the stupid thing I am bypassing it, with a bypass belt right not but I dred that stupid thing that whole system is like 47 pounds of extra weight.
 

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the AC compressor doesn't matter.
I was referring to the AC idle up which is a little solenoid with 2 vac lines running to it.
if you didnt hook it up you will have a vac leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This all could be true, but you are making several unwarranted assumptions. :)

We don't know exactly what the OP did, and he probably doesn't know himself since this happened in a fraction of a second when he was probably looking at something else. I recommend testing the coils and then moving on.
OK good news got the car to Idle at 500 RPM at least starting to get somewhere, fix those vacuum leaks, Could my Dizzy be out by a few Teeth? you line up the dimples and, as soon as you shove the thing in teeth will move i guess hard too tell it the damn thing id on cylinder #1. you guys got a go link on the SC car Dizzy firing order is correct as well.

Thanks
 
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