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Discussion Starter #1,082
Wait, you don't feed the Mogwai after midnight. Either way, Mogwai or Gremlin, you don't get them wet. Fix that leak!
Did fix the leak. Also discovered a small one where the heater soft lines connect to the hard lines. Tightened that up too. Also went back to 13psi filler cap. Looks like my cooling system is working right again! :). It expels a little fluid on full warm up (1/4-3/8" tank level) and draws it back in on cool down. :). Yay! One more problem solved.

Life just never lets up, but I may be able to at least get my adapter harness built, and MS3 talking to my sensors this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,083 (Edited)
JFC!!! it is like God hates me! I just cant win!

I waited to be sure the cooling system was OK before reporting it was "fixed." Sure enough, go to check the level in the tank tonight after a 150mi drive, and the level is higher than ever!! like 3 inches above normal!! GDF!!! I can't win! Aaaaaggghhhh!!!

EDIT:

OK, bit of an overreaction there, but sometimes the car just drives me nuts. Anyway, turns out my fixes weren't sufficient, leaking ensued again. I did a more complete repair, and now the cooling system is functioning correctly again. Still crossing my fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,084 (Edited)
Quick update on status of the car/build.

Just started 5kmi service, primarily consisting of valve clearance check/adjust.

The car is running well still, especially between 5000 and 7000rpm. Idles good. Still running 6 degrees of retard from stock, and the low end sucks but is well enough to get by. After this service, I'll be finally getting the engine running on Megasquirt 3.

Cooling system still performing well, but still slight accumulation in the overflow tank. I think the leak just wasnt fully sealed. Ongoing but not worried.

Lobe wear is excellent (used cams, some new shims; used zinc additive at new)

Valve clearances look good.

Valve clearances did close a tiny bit. All intakes are from .0080-.0095 inch of clearance (good). All exhaust also closed a tiny bit, and are about .0125 inch of clearance, except one at .0110 (also good). For comparison, when the motor was new, several intakes were over .010" and a couple exhausts were over 0.013" as I recall.

Some head studs were a little loose.

Checked 8 of 10 head stud torques. Brought torque wrench to 60ftlb. The 2 center studs, and the #4 intake stud were a little low, around 50ftlb. I tightened them up. I'm taking my chances with the #1 intake and exhaust studs.

Spark plugs look good.

The plugs are a little fouled, mostly on the electrode strap. No real signs of detonation damage whatsoever. The fouling is a brownish grey crusty material, surely oil ash/residue. This is further evidence to me that my 1qt/1000mi oil consumption is primarily due to excessive volatility (Mobil 1 5w30), and that much of the small specs I was seeing at high rpm on the spark plugs in the past, was in fact ash deposits from spattering of condensed oil vapor in the throttle body.

The small oil leak in the 3/4 spark plug valley is due to a loose/leaky casting plug at the end of the head. It's the one with the large hex socket in it. Can I just (re)tighten this? Maybe some FPIG will help.

I will decide whether to adjust the valve clearances, and I may likely paint or powder coat my valve covers while theyre off.

After the engine is back together, I'll do another compression test.

Then time for an oil change - switching to Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 to see if I can improve my oil consumption.


Here's the #2 plug:

 

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Discussion Starter #1,085 (Edited)
So, I imagine interest in this build is on hold until dynographs appear. But, just gonna add a few little updates, as I'm still making progress.

Adjusted the valve clearances this week. Changed almost all shims, now intakes are all just below nominal (.0080 inch), and exhaust is .0011 inch +/- .0005 inch.

Doing a crank pulley install - under drive, lighter, and most importantly a crank angle sensor for best engine management performance. Yes, I'm aware of and concerned about harmonic damping.

Fixed the oil leak from the head rear center casting plug.

Painted my valve covers, with proper oven curing, pics here:

**Link coming** EDIT: Sorry, consumer technology is just a joke... never works reliably. Wanted to show a picture here, but none of three devices will let me do it. Here is a link:

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AiHZE_35a1whlEp04UgnOCZgcuW6

Spent too long on painting and wasn't able to put it all back together in time. Will get it done next week, eagerly awaiting compression results. Will do my 5000 mile oil and filter change right after, changing to a better oil.

After that, I'll be getting the aftermarket management running ASAP, possibly next week. Just need to properly solder up a patch harness, make sure I don't fry any circuits, and get a good basic tune going.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,087
Thanks for posting that. Yes, I noticed they have some "race" pulleys also, same idea. I think one of them incorporates a timing wheel provision and optional addition. It's something I'll keep in mind. I still just wonder about the necessity and performance of the 30 year old stock "damper" vs a solid pulley. For now, I figure as long as I dont sit at one rpm at full throttle for too terribly long, I should be ok, again just for time being at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,088 (Edited)
So I just finished all 5kmi maintenance operations.

Changed from break-in/flush trans fluid to Redline MT-90 (the old Valvoline fluid was rather dark with apparently wear material??? Maybe from the several new synchros? ) . Switched to 4 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, and a new Japanese "matrix element" filter. I'm looking forward to seeing if my oil consumption improves with the new oil.

Again, all valve clearances adjusted to be just about nominal.


And the GREAT news! My compression looks awesome! 1) 185psi, 2) 182psi, 3) 179psi, 4)185psi :) :) :)


The absolute value I think is pretty close to true, based on comparison to another gauge. Test was done at 3000ft, good cranking speed (fully charged battery). I think at least part of the reason for the evening out of the values compared to 500 miles, is the correctly set, normalized valve clearances, because valve opening/closing timing is surely very relevant to cylinder airflow at very low cranking speeds.

The new crank pulley install went pretty well. It's all ready to send crank position info to my Megasquirt setup, which is up next.
 

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Have you considered booking an hour of dyno time to run it in its current configuration?

You stated your af/r's are in the mid to high 12's?. So knowing that, you could play with cam/ignition timing to find optimal settings for torque and power?

Also, have you got the IN/EX opening/closing times of the cams you have?
 
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