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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been bouncing between these options and I would like some input, My aunt has a sienna with a 3mz that would need a full teardown and rebuild, cars going in the scrapper but she would give me the engine for free saving lots of $$$, but on the opposite end the 2GR is newer and seems to have alot of ease of access for the swap available (motor mounts, plug and play ecu etc) and to my knowledge more HP and more write ups covering the swap, so im wondering if comparing the factors would it be better to just wait for the 2GR swap or scoop up the 3MZ and get to rebuilding and putting it in, any advice would be appreciated!
 

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Well here are some things you should consider.
The 2GR will offer much more HP than a 3MZ. Likely 60 or so more HP and 40 more pounds of torque.
It is the way to go for a MK2 without a doubt. However I don't think there are any motor mount adapters for putting one in a MK1. Nor will there be any off-the-shelf exhausts available. The 2GR is a bigger engine, so firewall modifications are more likely to be needed. But that might still be necessary for an xMZ engine as well, so do some research. Woodsport has done a lot of 1MZ into MK1 installs.

The 3MZ is a DBW ECU, same as the 2GR, so an e-throttle pedal will be needed either way.
You'd have to wire up the immobilizer stuff for the 3MZ, while Marc's 2GR ECUs are modded to eliminate that.
There have been folks on the board able to de-immobilize the 1MZ ECUs, but not sure if they're still around, or if they can do the 3MZ ECUs as well.
I don't know if the 3MZ ECU (which are all automatics) would run OK w/o all the automatic transmission inputs missing. At minimum you'd have lots of error codes. Marc's ECU reflash eliminates this hassle for the 2GR.

Lastly, you can run the 3MZ engine with a MT 1MZ ecu. The allows you to retain cable throttle and you don't get any auto-tranny MIL codes. You lose the VVTi though, but it still runs quite well. Bill Strong and Troy Trulio have raced lemons cars with this setup, IIRC. Do some research on this board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well here are some things you should consider.
The 2GR will offer much more HP than a 3MZ. Likely 60 or so more HP and 40 more pounds of torque.
It is the way to go for a MK2 without a doubt. However I don't think there are any motor mount adapters for putting one in a MK1. Nor will there be any off-the-shelf exhausts available. The 2GR is a bigger engine, so firewall modifications are more likely to be needed. But that might still be necessary for an xMZ engine as well, so do some research. Woodsport has done a lot of 1MZ into MK1 installs.

The 3MZ is a DBW ECU, same as the 2GR, so an e-throttle pedal will be needed either way.
You'd have to wire up the immobilizer stuff for the 3MZ, while Marc's 2GR ECUs are modded to eliminate that.
There have been folks on the board able to de-immobilize the 1MZ ECUs, but not sure if they're still around, or if they can do the 3MZ ECUs as well.
I don't know if the 3MZ ECU (which are all automatics) would run OK w/o all the automatic transmission inputs missing. At minimum you'd have lots of error codes. Marc's ECU reflash eliminates this hassle for the 2GR.

Lastly, you can run the 3MZ engine with a MT 1MZ ecu. The allows you to retain cable throttle and you don't get any auto-tranny MIL codes. You lose the VVTi though, but it still runs quite well. Bill Strong and Troy Trulio have raced lemons cars with this setup, IIRC. Do some research on this board.
Lots of information scattered about on the board, would a aftermarket ECU fix alot of these issues I assume? I know 2GR is the way, hux racing has motor mount kits for it and woodsport does wiring harness for it etc, only thing swaying me to the 3mz would be fact that I have one for free compared to a 10k crate engine like ratmotorsports provides or a who knows condition 2 grand 2GR, extra money allowing me to buy a aftermarket ecu? thank you for the information though I will continue scouring every forum for bits of info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Would the free engine needing a full rebuild be cheaper than a 200 dollar (give or take) unit from the junkyard?
Something to consider
Might have to rebuild the junkyard engine 1000 miles down the line anyways though, also considering upgrading parts while rebuilding but at the same time itll probably add up similiar cost to the 2gr so its a give and take, which is why I wanted some more opinions on the matter
 

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But that might still be necessary for an xMZ engine as well, so do some research.
Definintely not necessary but I did have to build a custom exhaust to make everything fit.

1MZ in an AW11 is a blast.

An extra 100HP on top of that with the 2GR would be wild, sometimes I wish I went that route but then I go race the car and remember it really doesn't need any more power (I don't drag race). If I did it all over again I would probably consider the 2GR though.

The standalone does fix all the ECU concerns, I have a Speeduino in mine but it's not a requirement if you get the right ECU. I have a thread on here about that.

You can also run a 3MZ on a VVTi 1MZ ECU, lose the DBW and keep the VVTi. I can remove the immobilizer from 1MZ ECU's if you really need someone to.
 

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MOST junkyard motors will be fine for 10's of thousands of miles without doing anything to them. Just grab a motor and send it. If it blows up, throw another one in. That's the beauty of cheap (ish) stock motors out of modern cars.

However, for an easier swap into the AW11, maybe look into the 2AR instead? Basically the 4 cylinder version of the 2GR. With minimal work it's similar power to a 1mz, but it fits in the car much easier.
 

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MOST junkyard motors will be fine for 10's of thousands of miles without doing anything to them. Just grab a motor and send it. If it blows up, throw another one in. That's the beauty of cheap (ish) stock motors out of modern cars.
This is my mentality. I think I paid about $300 for the first 1MZ I bought, and it came with a rusted out Camry and E153 to drive it home in. The engine is the cheap part of a swap lol.
 
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