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Could someone tell me if a 1992 e153 mates up to the 2gr block as nicely as a 'revision 3'. I've read on Australia forums that only the revision 3 mates up properly.
I got 4 big bolts between my 91 e153 and my 2GR with only the normal modification (helicoil one hole in the block). I welded two new bosses into the transmission case to get the two bolts at the bottom of the oil pan, but I have heard that a 93+ transmission already has these.

I used a 93 transmission on mine and apart from the usual helicoil at top I actually drilled out and helicoiled the 2 bottom holes to take bigger bolts through the oil pan mounting
 

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Discussion Starter #122
It's been long time since I posted an update but here we go.

There have been a lot of set backs during the project as most things go so I spent way more time than expected wiring and just not having as much time as I would like to work on the car.


I believe I have the wiring done 100% (fingers crossed.) The links software is not very straight forward to me at least so I have spent a long time just trying to figure out getting it set up and making sure I have followed the guidelines it set.


Then comes the fabrication, I bought a TIG welder and have been teaching myself and also made the up pipe, brackets and currently working on the down pipe all with just a saw all and TIG welder. My skills are getting better but I still feel it doesn't look great.

The Turbo is finally mounted, but it ended up being closer to the FPR than I had intended so I'll be re-routing the fuel and also will need to re-route the Coolant filler spot as the down pipe goes right there.


I also took a bunch of time to re-use the stock NA MR2 muffler and cut it open and replace the inside with 3 inch piping. This was a pretty fun project and I think it came out pretty good. I did have to bash in the 3 inch outlet to not run into the exhaust tip but that's fine.
 

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I commend you for your welding effort. Tig welding is not gonna happen for me in this lifetime and I'm envious of anyone who can do it.

Just thinking out loud here it looks like the route you're going is putting the downpipe together with "standard" headers which is a solution if you don't want to fabricate custom turbo manifolds and all in all what you end up with is not that different from a rear-mount turbo except that the turbo is in the engine bay. It doesn't look like your path is any shorter than it would be with a rear-mount in fact to me it looks longer. I wonder about a couple of other things one is the unequal lengths and how it would affect unequal back-pressures which seems like it might be a consideration under boost the pressure differentials that partially govern VE will be likely different between the banks and secondly related to that somewhat is monitoring the AFR's on the two banks there's probably no solution for this except to put the sensors in front of the turbo where their life expectancy is reduced but it could save you from fuel imbalance between the banks and its consequences.

What are you thinking for an intercooler?
 

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Frank, it looks like the rear bank has about 10" more to travel. 10" in a 3" diameter .065" wall tube is 64.7 cubic inches or 1.06L of volume. Without getting into expansion ratios and turbine backpressure it feels like this is significantly less than one cylinder's worth of exhaust gasses to fill the extra volume. It may not be perfect but i don't think that'll cause tuning issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
My TIG welding skills are certainly not good, but they have gotten I think to an acceptable level for a weld that looks ugly but holds pressure. I will keep practicing so I can get them looking better.


The turbo certainly isn't ideal placement I went over a lot of ideas on paper on where and how to mount it. I wanted to keep the trunk since I will eventually delete the frunk to make a hood vent for the radiator and didn't want to lose all my space. I think if I did it again I would just delete the trunk and do it that way.


Unequal length headers are not ideal but I don't think it will cause issues. I mean my WRX has a huge disparity between header lengths in it's stock uppipe. Good point about the AFR though. I only will have 1 Wide band and it will be 8-10 inches after the turbo.


My original idea for the I/C was to put it in the stock location in the Pas side vent with a fan. I may still start out this way. Long term once I get the hood vent sorted I will likely switch to a Water to Air. I may even hook it up without an I/C at first and leave it at 5psi while I sort bugs out. We will see how things pan out.


This weekend I'll be finishing the exhaust and moving the FPR to the firewall away from the turbo. After that I may try to start it again. Then I have to get water lines hooked up to the turbo, Engine, Coolant Fill location, and heater core. The heater core lines were leaking so I ripped all the copper lines out and switched to rubber, they are routed under the car but not routed in the bay yet.


I still need to sort out switching to the 95 gauge cluster as I swapped out for a electronic speed sensor to work with the Links. A lot of progress recently but still a long ways to go. After it's drivable i'll be sanding it down and learning to paint a car. I would like to respray it blue but haven't fully decided since I already painted the bay red and the car is red.

Lots to do. Oh and I need new seats so might try getting some stock nice seats and welding them to my MR2 frame. I would mind WRX seats but won't really start measuring until I actually need to sit in something and drive it.
 

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Regarding heater lines, if you don't drive the car much in very cold weather, you can delete the lines entirely and tap into the main coolant pipes for heat. It takes a while to get heat (car has to be FULLY warmed up with the thermostat open), and the colder it gets the less effective the heater becomes, but if the car never sees below about 40 degrees, it works OK. And it gets a bunch of extra plumbing out of the engine bay, something that will probably be quite helpful for you! I tapped mine in just in front of the fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
That is a good point about the heater hoses. I still am not sure how often and when i'll drive this car so I just wanted full heat and ac for now.

I have finally completed the exhaust, it was quite cold in the garage so I didn't weld in the O2 bung yet and got halfway done moving the FPR. I need to wrap up some wires to pull them away from the exhaust and next week I should be ready to try and start it again.

Photo of some of the last welds and what it looks like from the bottom. My welding is getting better, still not pretty but decent.
 

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Nice work on the project. I was hoping to have mine swapped and turbo'd. This thread is making me think otherwise...wanted to use stock ecu with boost.
There's progress being made towards making the stock ECU's usable with boost. Depending on your time frame this may or may not work out for you. Personally I'm optimistic.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
I was talking with Frankenstein motorworks about running boost with stock ECU and he was working on tunes and I believe he has even tested it (with a supercharger) but with boost in the 6-8 psi range. I don't think you can go over that boost with the stock ECU but I could be wrong.

I wanted it to have flexibility so I went standalone. Although I had a lot of setbacks while wiring in the end it's all figured out and the car is now running. I am working on fabricating intercooler piping and installing the air to water setup. I have a new job so it might be a few weeks before I can get back on it.
 

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There's a bit of a few conversations in that statement so let me unwrap it.

The current state of the boosted tune for the 2GR goes two different ways:

TRD ECU:
Pros:
-This ECU can be used with boost to about 400whp or so.
-uses camry base ECU which is a cheap core.

Cons:
-requires immobilizer setup (not that complicated but a deal breaker for most)
-throws U0101 code that cannot be disabled
-uses 500cc injectors that are very difficult to get for a reasonable price
-the 500cc injectors are not a long reach design
-I haven't spent much time optimizing this tune, it works but it's leaving power on the table for sure. It hasn't been tuned for the MAF pipe yet either.
-two of the people that have bought this, both of which are competent with wiring are unable to get the ECU to open the throttle beyond about 30%. After lots of diagnosing we were unable to find the difference between my setup and theirs (this is a HUGE con to this ECU)

Rav4 ECU with larger injectors:
Pros:
-This will use 545cc injectors and should support 450whp at 3 bar fuel pressure. 500whp should also be possible at 4 bar fuel pressure with a tweaked tune.
-no fault codes, just like the current tunes i provide.
-no immobilizer

Cons:
-uses rav4 ECU core, these aren't getting any cheaper.
-tune just barely started yet, I am getting all the details figured out with the 2ar-fe tune first. It'll likely be the end of the summer before this tune is released.
 

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I haven't check timing at WOT so I don't even know if the stock ecu is usable for low boost. Other than the injectors being too small on the stock setup, how is the timing on the stock Rav4 ecu versus the Camry/TRD ecu and pending Rav4 boosted ecu? If someone used larger injectors on a rising rate regulator can the get by with 5 psi without detonation and hoping the ecu will pull the timing?.
 

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The timing on the ECU is very conservative but my MAF pipe tune fixes that so right out of the box it would not be a good idea to use that one for boost.

As for the rising rate regulator the issue is a rising rate regulator will cause a bunch of negative trims down low and the ECU carries the down low trims at the top so that would pull a bunch of fuel. Unless there's a regulator that provides a flat pressure until boost arrives you're going to have an issue with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Update time.

The car is running. I made a change and put the W2A I/C up top for now. I'll be moving it and redoing it later. I want to cut the I/C and build a manifold into it so the TB bolts to the I/C and goes straight into the lower manifold. Before I do that I want to practice more aluminum welding since it was pretty tricky to do those pipes but I'm getting better.

The motor had a knock on start up that slowly went mostly away after a few minutes. The oil pressure was 55psi and tapered down to 22-25psi after it was warmed up.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-MEFskxsR6-4Sd3WwrcpxFUdkBkasNif

Let me know how you think it sounds. The knock was only on accelerating and pretty quiet by the time I took the video ~20 minutes of idling. The Intake pipes aren't bolted on since I have to get them bead rolled and it's not tuned anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
I did on the first start which was a few months ago. I didn't hear a knock then but I only ran it to check oil pressure and timing then shut it off until I could finish the intercooler setup and coolant lines.

The oil pressure was 55psi from the time it took to stand up and look at my laptop so maybe 5 seconds. The motor is from a 2016 Avalon with only 15k miles on it that was rear ended, so the motor is very new. I checked oil, added a half a quart and ran it again for ~15-20minutes to let things warm up.

I wish I could work on it more, but the best is 4 hours every week or two, and there was a few stretches where it was months without working on it. So yea it's been a long time for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
It's been a while but here is the latest update.
I swapped in tein basis coilovers. I used 4 OEM rear endlinks and it appears to be working out. The front ones look like they may hit under spring compression but I'll sort that out.
I plan on putting a tablet in place of the radio, my goal is to have it show gauges using RealDash, run the radio, and use the speakers. I am still digging into what tablets can do this, I am limited to Windows or Android to work with Link. Any thoughts?
I went on the first drive, no issues other than flat spots on the rear tires from sitting for so long. I didn't have a long enough USB to watch the laptop so I stayed away from spooling the turbo.
I got the seat belts to work with OEM, welded on an extension so the receptacle wasn't buried way down next to the seat hard to get to.
The steering wheel is from a 05 Matrix and the wiring for the horn seems to be reversed, I haven't dug into trying to fix this without an open circuit.
I have to wire the water pump for the A2W I/C still, I haven't decided where I will pull power.
I have to cut all the gauge cluster wires and reoriente them for the 93+ gauge cluster. I have everything I need to do this, just putting it off.
I made a custom new aluminum flange for the Intake manifold. I will be welding runners on this and have it dump directly into the I/C deleting the plastic manifold. I will likely wait to do this until after a tune and sorting out other issues.

Tune isn't scheduled yet but likely in about 2 months depending on backlog.


Cheers
 
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