MR2 Owners Club Forum banner

101 - 120 of 137 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #101
THanks again.

Interesting about the pinion. I'll look into that, it seems that to do it yourself is pretty simple and you don't need special tools so after I read a little more I"ll order some parts.

I'll see if I can borrow a vac bleeder from a friend. I did put the 93+ master cylinder in the car which puts the cap right underneath the bar that goes around the spare. I'll likely end up removing the bar for an actual stiffner and not have a spare tire. Eventually I'd like to modify the hood for a reverse vent and cut two tunnels for the radiator, but I want the car reliable first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #102
I was able to get the Clutch line bled with a Mityvac pump. The brakes are now 100% complete as I had lost one of the metal springs for the pads but found them for cheap online.

I have two open issues I haven't found a good consensus on.

1) Fuel lines. I ordered the parts off of this thread http://www.mr2oc.com/4910633-post93.html That worked great for everything except the quick connect fitting which seems too small diameter. Is this what everyone is using? Did you have to buy another quick connect fitting or make any mods to it? I read some where people were filing down some bits, which seems iffy when dealing with fuel right next to where my turbo is going.

2) Radiator hoses. Has anyone found a OEM part that goes for the 2 main radiator lines. There is one by the accessories which is a tight spot and it mates to the metal radiator line at the bottom. The other one I want to go straight to the bottom pipe and eliminate that L shaped metal line that bolts to the fire wall. It would free up space for the turbo and really serves no purpose.

I am waiting on some wiring supplies but things are moving along.

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #103
I found a water leak in one of the heater hoses when I was flushing it out, so I took the gas tank back out and end up finding more leaks in the copper lines. So I just ripped them both out and ordered more hose and I'll run the hoses under the gas tank instead.

I was doing more research on the steering pinion gear replacement here .. Quick Turn Steering Gear and I really like the sounds of it. However when you search the pinion gear part number it's $700 bucks from Toyota which is stupid.

Does anyone know someone that has one? I'll be looking for used racks to pull the gear myself.

I pulled the rack and took it back to my house to rebuild, Rock Auto doesn't stock the rebuild kit so I'll be shopping around for that too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,539 Posts
That hose is there to help bleed the coolant system but it's useless. Just use a vacuum bleeder and get it done way quicker the first time around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,331 Posts
Does anyone know someone that has one? I'll be looking for used racks to pull the gear myself.
Primemr2 now primedriven used to sell a rack rebuild kit.

I got my fast pinion out of a salvage MR2 Spyder rack, like this one, $65 for the entire thing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2005-Toyota-MR2-Spyder-Power-Steering-Rack-Pinion-OEM-/122010923864?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

But I'm waiting on installing it until I need to rebuild the rack.

That one is a particularly good deal usually they are a little bit more like $100.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #107
Thanks Frank. I ordered that Rack from ebay, the rebuild kit from Advanced for 51 bucks and the tie rod ends/boots from Rock auto.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #108
Finished rebuilding the steering rack with the newer MR2 Pinion gear. Couple annoying things to deal with when I only have basic tools but managed to get it all done without too much trouble. Now just hoping I seated all the seals good and there are no leaks.

Tomorrow I am running the new rubber heater lines after ripping out the broken copper lines. Then reinstalling the fuel tank again and hooking it up.

Then with some hope actual wiring begins in 2 weeks. I'll also be mapping out the exhaust and ordering piping to start fabricating the exhaust and intake piping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #109
Update:

It's been a while. I am still working. The wiring was a lot of learning, it's to the point now where I can hook up the batter and start testing it.

Once I confirm I won't blow up my Links G4 Fury, and the right things are getting power. Fingers Crossed. Then I can plug in the ECU and start telling it what to do.

My goal is to get ready to turn it over in 2-3 weeks. Should I be able to get it to idle OK, I'll start welding the exhaust and intake, and finalize a lot of little things and get it ready to go to the tuner.

-Cheers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,539 Posts
Just a heads up based on that picture. The MAP sensor location you're using is velocity sensitive. You will read up to about 5psi of boost right there when your actual manifold pressure is actually just atmospheric pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,331 Posts
Just a heads up based on that picture. The MAP sensor location you're using is velocity sensitive. You will read up to about 5psi of boost right there when your actual manifold pressure is actually just atmospheric pressure.
Marc what's a suggested location for MAP sensor port - would tee-ing off the brake booster line do the trick?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,539 Posts
That port works fine for NA builds, just understand your VE table will look odd because you need to map it to about 5psi of boost. It's the port i used for the AEM tune i did because i did not notice the issue until i was partially tuned anyways and there was no reason to restart. For a turbo build it would be really difficult to manage boost pressure with a MAP sensor that was velocity sensitive.

The 2nd gen upper intake manifold has an extra port next to the brake booster port and it's a better manifold to use anyways. that's what i would use if i were to do it again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,750 Posts
The 2nd gen upper intake manifold has an extra port next to the brake booster port and it's a better manifold to use anyways. that's what i would use if i were to do it again.
Some of them do. There are actually two subtly different versions of that manifold. Visually the only difference I can see is that extra port, but I have not compared them other than in pictures on eBay. Mine is the one without the extra port, FYI.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,539 Posts
oh, the plot thickens. the one i got has two ports and i just assumed that was a truth all around. But hey, i don't work for toyota so i'm guessing like the rest of you guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #116
Wouldn't velocity across an open port create a vacuum from the Venturi effect. Then under pressure the pressure will equalize in all areas. I've been out of school for a long time but that is how I remember it.

For reference this motor is from a 2016 Avalon with 16k miles.

I can easily just run that line to another place, I just didn't think it would make a difference so long as it was on the manifold. And that made it look tidy.

My plan is to use a bigger port, put a check valve, and hook that up to the brake booster so it just won't have assist under boost. I didn't want a vacuum pump and vacuum tank to supply vacuum under full throttle as it seems no use to me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,539 Posts
Note I did not say it was a venturi, just that it was velocity sensitive. it does not act like a venturi at all, i think it's just a ram air effect from the air's momentum as it takes a turn right there but i am not an aerodynamics guy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #118
Gotcha, Yea it's been too long out of engineering for me to remember everything.

I'll do some research on it and see if I need to move it, not a big deal I have extra vacuum hose.

This weekend I hook the battery up and start checking stuff.

I did want to ask has anyone swaped a gauge cluster from NA Mechanical to NA electronic tach? The got the pig tails with it luckily since all the connectors are different. I was thinking it would just be swapping or adding 1 or 2 wires and it looks like I have to re pin the whole thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Could someone tell me if a 1992 e153 mates up to the 2gr block as nicely as a 'revision 3'. I've read on Australia forums that only the revision 3 mates up properly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,750 Posts
Could someone tell me if a 1992 e153 mates up to the 2gr block as nicely as a 'revision 3'. I've read on Australia forums that only the revision 3 mates up properly.
I got 4 big bolts between my 91 e153 and my 2GR with only the normal modification (helicoil one hole in the block). I welded two new bosses into the transmission case to get the two bolts at the bottom of the oil pan, but I have heard that a 93+ transmission already has these.

 
101 - 120 of 137 Posts
Top