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I haven't seen MWR's part. do you have any pictures of what you're talking about?

as for the last 1/4" of mating the trans the only thing that starts contact at that point is the dowel pins. if your clutch disk isn't centered properly it will be impossible to align the dowel pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/toyota-oem-axle-support-bracket-2gr-fe/

This is the part. I had assume it was machined to move the lock ring the .25" you had mentioned in an old post. When it showed up I compared it to the stock one on my motor and the only difference I could see is that the base (the part that faces the motor and is bolted) was machined down maybe 1/8 - 1/4". So basically pulling it that amount closer to the block.

As for the trans the dowel pins are both already in their respective spots so I don't believe that is holding it. I was tapping it with a rubber mallet and walking around tightening bolts one at a time. But once it was harder than one hand choked up on the handle I didn't want to put any more on it if something is bound.

You can see in the photo below it is very close to flush but just seems hung up. I ran out of time so I left it and will try again either this coming weekend or the one after.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQthpDMRBcVQ0ROWkF3Y29md1U/view?usp=sharing
 

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That is very odd on that MWR part. that really won't help things fit and i know Matt has placed E series transmission on 2GRs in his shop so i'm a bit confused.

as for mating the transmission if you're past the dowel pin alignement the next thing is just the clutch alignment. if you use a rubber mallet to tap the clutch fork to get it to self center it should let you go the rest of the way. just tap it a few times and try going further.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
So I figured it out. I put in the pilot bearing not thinking anything of it. This trans runs without a pilot bearing.... So that is what it's hitting. I won't be able to get working on the car for another 2 weeks but I'll figure that out.

On the axle I'm a little annoyed as it was marketed as needed to swap the axle in so I had assumed it moved the bearing. I'll email MWR and double check what they are thinking.
 

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Yeah, that'll certainly do it.

as for the axle bracket I'd send a calm e-mail to Matt, I'm sure there's an explanation even if that part isn't what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Talked to Matt. He said it was for the axles they sell for the swap. Which appear to be 2gr axles, so I'll hope that they will accept a return and i'll drop my axle off at a shop and use my stock bearing bracket. I think I am missing that snap ring, but otherwise the stock one was fine.

I am a little confused as to why it was machined to move it towards the block if all the swaps I read used the stock one, the centerline shouldn't change with axles.
 

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Yeah, i agree it sounds somewhat suspicious, the centerline should not change but hopefully Matt accepts the return without complaint and that's that.

I do offer a service to do the axle modification if you can't get it done locally but odds are you can get it done cheaper locally.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Yea, I emailed him for a return. We will see tomorrow.

Marc, I would love for you to do it but was trying to avoid shipping it anywhere so I will most likely have a shop here do it. Do you have pointers? I saw you want a new ring groove 0.25" further. I can't recall if it was closer to the trans or further, but I can go search for that.
 

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I've actually updated that recommendation to 10mm instead of 1/4" because some axles are slightly longer and it's still well within the CV's plunge travel range. the directions for doing it are all in this thread: http://www.mr2oc.com/188-v6-mr2-forum/653721-2gr-fe-axle-modifications-directions.html

Generally the kind of machine shop that will do this is called a job shop. They can be a bit tricky to find but what i recommend is you just go to your local automotive machine shop, the kind that you can send a block and heads to and talk to them. they likely won't have the tools to do this with but they should know which direction to send you towards to get it done. There's a 50/50 chance it's "go see bob, he does this stuff in his garage" or just a normal small business with an old guy running it. the job shop is a dying thing unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Marc, Thanks that is perfect.

So I got in touch with Matt at MWR. He thinks that their machined bracket does help center the axle. I asked if he would let me check in 2 weeks when I can next get up to work on my car and he was fine letting me check and taking the return if I don't feel it's needed.

If I do find the centerlines matched I'll keep it and then go get the bearing moved the 10mm, if the CL don't match then I'll go back to the stock 2gr bracket that was on the motor.

I need to take that pilot bearing out (stupid not to check to see if it fit on the shaft first) then remount the clutch and trans and install the axle to see how it fits.

I drilled ant tapped the oil drain line without issue into the upper oil pan. I'll be running AN-10 for the drain line and AN-4 for the feed line. I need to see what T adapter I need for the oil pressure sensor to fit my Links pressure sensor and the AN-4 line to the turbo. I'll be doing these in braided stainless and wrapping the headers to keep them from heating up too much. I should be able to keep them at least 2-3 inches from the headers and they will be about 2 feet long each.

I found some great notes on the fuel line to save me some time figuring out all the fitting sizes.
http://www.mr2oc.com/188-v6-mr2-forum/640721-2gr-fe-swap-fuel-system-questions.html

My next step is to order new motor mounts as my rubber ones are cracking. I don't want poly mounts. Any thoughts on a cheap way to buy new ones? I'll be looking at rock auto and such this week.
 

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Yeah, i agree it sounds somewhat suspicious, the centerline should not change but hopefully Matt accepts the return without complaint and that's that.

I do offer a service to do the axle modification if you can't get it done locally but odds are you can get it done cheaper locally.
we modify the long stubshaft for V6 swaps, offer custom lengths too so it can be more specific to your configuration
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Update.

So I ended up using urethane to fill in my motor mounts, they weren't that bad so we will see how that holds up.

After realizing the pilot bearing didn't belong in the flywheel and taking everything back off, the transmission went on easy enough.

I got a turbo radiator and fans and that went in without issue.

I do have a question about the radiator hoses people recommended that fit right in. They didn't seem to fit at all on mine, I double checked the numbers that I ordered and they were correct. Does someone have a photo of how they ran the hose that goes from the belt side of the motor to the runner pipe under the car. And the pipe that runs to Gouky's water inlet.

The motor is now installed.

I have started laying out my Links G4 wires and am trying to figure out which ones I'll use. So I have some research to do here before connecting it in.

Does anyone have a photo of how they hooked up their FPR as well?
 

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Here's how I did my FPR (on the 3rd iteration). http://www.mr2oc.com/188-v6-mr2-forum/650833-my-2gr-fe-swap-thread-4.html#post6735314

If I recall right the hose on the RH side fits, but does need to be trimmed to length.

On the LH side, I had previously modified the stock pipe into this (extra attachment point is hidden, but picks up one of the heat shield screws):


This allows an S-bend hose like this to make a nice clean connection (sorry, this seems to be the best picture I have at the moment):


Looks like the hoses I purchased were Gates #21404 for the LH side and 21701 for the RH side (trimming required).
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Thanks.

The part numbers I got were.

Gates 22306 Lower Radiator Hose
Gates 21701 Radiator Coolant Hose

Here is a link to a bunch of photos so far. I think this weekend I'll be up starting to tear down the 2GR wire harness and label things to start hooking up the Links G4. My goal is to fire it up before January. Just straight headers, no turbo at first to make sure everything is running ok and it's wired correctly.

I am buying a TIG welder and will fab the exhaust myself and then the intake. Once it's running on 5psi, I'll fab intercooler piping and use a stock intercooler on the side mount location. I hope to be done with this by March. Then I'll sand the whole car down and paint it which should take 2-3 months likely. Once that is finished I'll license it and start enjoying it. That's the plan at least. I only get to work on it for about 8 hours every two weeks so it's been a long road so far. Thanks to all the info online and your guys insight every issue so far has been solved so I really think it's all coming together. Just the most dreadful part left, wiring and painting........


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwQthpDMRBcVOVpfb1NQSHVPVGM
 

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Thanks.

The part numbers I got were.

Gates 22306 Lower Radiator Hose
Gates 21701 Radiator Coolant Hose

Here is a link to a bunch of photos so far. I think this weekend I'll be up starting to tear down the 2GR wire harness and label things to start hooking up the Links G4. My goal is to fire it up before January. Just straight headers, no turbo at first to make sure everything is running ok and it's wired correctly.

I am buying a TIG welder and will fab the exhaust myself and then the intake. Once it's running on 5psi, I'll fab intercooler piping and use a stock intercooler on the side mount location. I hope to be done with this by March. Then I'll sand the whole car down and paint it which should take 2-3 months likely. Once that is finished I'll license it and start enjoying it. That's the plan at least. I only get to work on it for about 8 hours every two weeks so it's been a long road so far. Thanks to all the info online and your guys insight every issue so far has been solved so I really think it's all coming together. Just the most dreadful part left, wiring and painting........





any updates???
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Been a while since I updated anything here.

I have been working on small things but haven't gotten much time the past 2 months. I have my TIG welder and the new 220 50A outlet in. I have the brakes finished and bleeded.

I went to bleed the clutch and gave up when I realized the bleeder is below the slave, Does anyone have a good way to bleed this? I am going to take off one of the lines in the top and poor some in to see if that gets enough air out to get it going.

The power steering rack has seen better days and looks like it leaking. How have you dealt with this? Is it something you get rebuilt or replace or rebuild yourself? The new ones seem to be 300+.
 

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I went to bleed the clutch and gave up when I realized the bleeder is below the slave, Does anyone have a good way to bleed this? I am going to take off one of the lines in the top and poor some in to see if that gets enough air out to get it going.

The power steering rack has seen better days and looks like it leaking. How have you dealt with this? Is it something you get rebuilt or replace or rebuild yourself? The new ones seem to be 300+.
I use a vacuum bleeder now and it's been great for brakes & clutch.

I rebuilt my own rack a couple years ago. Most of the parts are available, but some of the bearings are not. I would recommend reviewing the parts diagram and talking with your local dealer to make sure you can get everything you need before tearing is apart. All the seals are still available when I did mine. The one bearing that wasn't available at the dealer is available elsewhere (I think it was the one at the base of the pinion).
 

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The ticket for bleeding on a MR2 of any generation and also on any car period is the Motive Power Bleeder. It pushes fluid (and bubbles) from the reservoir out the bleed port. It turns bleeding into a one-person job, done in 10 minutes.

The universal model is the 101:
https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-101-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DWKO/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518678776&sr=1-7&keywords=motive+power+bleeder

I've since then found an adapter for Toyota reservoirs, optional, works very well:
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-BA10-Adapter-Toyota/dp/B004IQ96RK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518678899&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=toyota+reservoir+adapter+bleeder

PS. I found out about a mod for the rack to make it quicker. You substitute the pinion from a MR2 Spyder into a SW20 rack. The pinions (indeed the complete racks) are available durt cheep. I've acquired a pinion and saving it for when I rebuild the rack - which seems inevitable sooner or later on a 25-year old rack slowly seeping.

PPS. Primedriven used to offer a rack rebuild service. I don't know if they do anymore.
 
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